I have Oriental that is finished in Brodac all the way through and I am attempting to rub it expecting a mirror finish. I start with 400 wet, 600 wet, then red compound, white compound, silver polish then wax. It is smooth and somewhat shiny, but I can still see fine scratches and it just doesn't have the mirror finish I expect. It has been at least two years since I cleared it. Could this have any effect on it? I just remember dope (lacquers) being so easy to work with.

Sand with warm water rand a few drops of LUX dish soap. Use 1500 paper then buff.

For final polishing I feel that 400 grit is too coarse to start. That may be why you still have scratches even after using finer paper. I start with 800 grit and work upward (finer) from there. Takes more time but worth it as deep scratches are kept to a minimum. Going back after 2 years should not be a problem and it should polish out easier than it did originally. Try not to polish through the clear though. The colored dope will get shiney but is not as fuel resistant as clear...especially w/Brodak dope.  

For final polishing I feel that 400 grit is too coarse to start. That may be why you still have scratches even after using finer paper. I start with 800 grit and work upward (finer) from there. Takes more time but worth it as deep scratches are kept to a minimum.
Why warm water?, it works better, clears the paper more effectively. Going back after 2 years should not be a problem and it should polish out easier than it did originally. Try not to polish through the clear though. The colored dope will get shiney but is not as fuel resistant as clear...especially w/Brodak dope. 

He's right on with this advice.  I start with 600 if the clear is death paint clear because it's a bit harder than dope.  But I go up through to and including 1200 then polish with stewart McDonald's medium paste polish and then with their fine polish.  This picture is a project finished on Thursday this week and is death paint clear done that way.

I start with 400 wet, 600 wet,

 Yep, you're way too coarse with that. Start out with at least 800 and then work your way up to 1500 before you even open the polishing compound. I only recently learned this, but it proved to work quite well.

Pulled out a Micro-mesh kit. Problem solved it looks like a mirror!! At least where I used the Micro-mesh. It can be purchased through Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.

wel Micro mesh when I was in the air force was what the Crew cheifs used to remove scratches from aircraft winsheilds,, it goes up to like 8000 grit or maybe more,,

I just finished a project using death paint clear and found my four years old Micro-Mesh is finally worn out.  Didn't want to wait for the new to arrive, so I broke out the wet or dry and used the Micro-Mesh for a backing - it worked out really great!  So...I guess we could say it never really loses its usefullness!!

 Reply to Sparky about warm water. Regular water will work also won't it?  I have used just tap water before, but if warm water works better I'll try it also. And thanks...

Have you ever tried hand polishing?  You simply rub the object with your bare hand and it will eventually really shine.  I've seen it done on a dope finish, but never tried it myself.

Floyd,  Yessir, that is really getting to the heart of a finish for us.  I did a guitar that was raw maple like that and hated to put the tung oil on it!  That raw wood was so gorgeous and smooooth!!  Those  are the times that are the real reason we do this, would you agree?