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Author Topic: Painting over red dope  (Read 1577 times)

Offline Ben_Crowley

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Painting over red dope
« on: March 10, 2014, 09:38:43 AM »
Has anyone had any success painting over red dope without having it bleed through?

On my latest project, I had planned to seal the Brodak red dope with clear dope before adding the yellow trim.  I have since learned that it is very difficult to prevent it from bleeding through.

Is there any way to do this without having my yellow turn to orange, or would it be better to apply this lesson to my next project?

Thanks in advance!

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2014, 09:48:59 AM »
dust DC 540 over it first before yellow
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Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2014, 01:41:03 PM »
I'd go for something I have on hand.  Mix a little light grey to blank it out,  then shoot a light coat of white, then the yellow.

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Offline wwwarbird

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2014, 11:16:11 PM »
 First, welcome aboard Ben, I see this is your first post. H^^

 Second, keep in mind that any yellow might just be about the worst color for covering anything. Even over white it will usually take multiple coats to get uniform coverage. In short, painting yellow can suck. y1

 What you want to do is possible but, like Dave says, you'll need a basecoat of a lighter color for the yellow. Brodak colors have very good pigmentation which helps a lot. Using Brodak dope I've definitely pulled off some "tricks" that some would say can't be done. I once forgot to add a graphic stripe on the lower rear fuselage of a Super Combat Streak model. I had done that particular model with an overall white base as a start, adding the orange and black over the white. When I painted the orange I forgot to mask for the lower rear fuselage "strake" stripe. With nothing to lose I tried spraying that stripe using Insignia White directly over the Cruiser Orange. Using an airbrush I got it to cover just fine. I will attach a photo of the 'Streak in this reply.
 
 For this "trick" I use a cheap $40 Badger airbrush designed for small plastic models. I run mine at 30psi. I've found that the nozzle opening size will largely dictate your usable dope/thinner ratio. I use a medium nozzle and start with at least a 50/50 mix but many times end up adding even more thinner to get things flowing. By using the small airbrush it allows you more control and you can spray the initial passes "dry" as you gradually build up the coverage and color. The airbrush also puts on less paint, helping you to save weight. Just tonight I just finished a paint scheme using Brodak Stinson Maroon as the base/primary color for the model, and then Diana Cream for all of the other trim work. Once the maroon base color was on the model all other trim work was done using only the small airbrush. I will be posting photos of that model here soon.

 In your case this process will work, but you will still definitely need a white or light grey base for your yellow. Keep in mind that the yellow will be a slightly darker or muted shade if you use anything other than white for a base.

 Hope this helps!
« Last Edit: March 11, 2014, 09:28:57 PM by wwwarbird »
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2014, 11:57:51 PM »
Hi Ben,

Welcome to the board!  Are you brush painting or using some sort of spray apparatus?

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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2014, 08:09:05 AM »
I too use an air brush for trim and graphic work.   Have a Harbor freight gun for doing the base coats and sometimes final clear.  The Streak looks great.   
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Offline Noel Corney

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2014, 04:11:30 PM »
Black or silver will usualy block out red , Just make sure you have coverage. Noel.

Offline James Mills

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2014, 08:10:07 PM »
It's more work but you can back mask the trim areas and then not have to spray over the red.  It may save a bit of weight also.

James
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Offline Ben_Crowley

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2014, 08:44:09 AM »
Thanks for the welcome and all of the great tips.  I've been enjoying this great hobby for about a year now and have found this forum to be a huge help.

I have been using the Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer, and for my purposes to this point it has worked well.  Although it is fairly adjustable, I can see how an airbrush would allow for more controlled coverage.  Needless to say, I will be backmasking next time.

Rob - What have you found the advantage of using DC 540 to be? I think I remember you using that on your Crossfire post.  The results were amazing, by the way.

Ben

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2014, 10:58:43 AM »
DC-540 is a light grey and covers easy. Sands easy and is light. Best stuff I have ever used. I buy it 6 cans at a time. I'm still waiting for it to be discontinued as is anything that works.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2014, 12:22:32 PM by Robert Storick »
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2014, 11:28:11 AM »
     It is common practice in painting anything that you try to never paint light colors over dark colors. Apply your light colors first, then the dark if you are going to overlap them. A pin stripe is often used to separate them. Colors like yellow and white just do not cover well unless the paint is heavily pigmented. It's best to plan it out and paint colors staring with light and finishing with dark. If that can't be done for whatever reason, then the back masking method steps forward.
   Good luck and have fun,
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Offline Paul Smith

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2014, 11:53:08 PM »
Both red & yellow are transparent.

You need to paint WHITE first, then red or yellow.  This is the the fine print of Rndolph color dope products.  I always comply with this and it works fine.
Paul Smith

John Leidle

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Re: Painting over red dope
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2014, 12:22:24 AM »
 A few years ago I painted over red & the red bleed up through the other color paint as I shot the clear,, a real friggin mess it was.
  John


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