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Hi TY,

Good find on the Silver!  I have a quart of PPG lacquer that is Mercedes "Silver" (but not "brilliant", it's from the early '90s. )

What "type" of paint is your "new" Silver?  We can't get bulk lacquer here.  (other than Duplicolor Paint Shop, a synthetic lacquer, in prethinned quarts ~ $20 a quart)  The good old "automotive lacquers" are forbidden! LOL!!

Thanks,
Bill

Yea, that's pretty much what I do. Go into the paint place, give them a color number and ask that it be mixed without binder. I usually get a pint can (or sometimes a quart) that is anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 full. Fill the can up the rest of the way with clear dope and Bob's your uncle.

Yea, that's pretty much what I do. Go into the paint place, give them a color number and ask that it be mixed without binder. I usually get a pint can (or sometimes a quart) that is anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 full. Fill the can up the rest of the way with clear dope and Bob's your uncle.

 R-R-Really? I am familiar with having automotive paint mixed from automotive parts stores like NAPA etc, I've done it many times but only for it's normal intended use.

 So let me get this straight, you can have automotive paint mixed, just tell them without any binders, and then mix what they give you with clear dope and use it just like you would normally always use your dope? Would this be true for any Dupont or PPG then?

 And who's Bob?

I have gone to a local Dupont paint dealer and twice, only twice , have asked for the "tint" with no binder. First time is was for the 2007 Chrysler red called "Torrid Red" and it is RED. Love it  and added Brodak clear and thinner and from a quart can I have about a gallon of the color and it has been applied to nine different planes. Not a problem, except it won't come out if skin very easily. 

The second time, one week ago, I got some Mercedes Silver as suggested by an email from Windy Urtnowski, when I found Brodak no longer carred B-25 silver, which is a very bright silver. Well, I got a quart, did the same as to the red, and it is a very bright silver. So far it has been applied to three stunters. Only problem is I used a tad too much retarder due to the cold and it is barely tacky two days later, but it is 37 in the garage.  It may well have been too cold when I applied the dope,  even though I did get the place up 58 degrees and heated the dope as well, but trying to get one plane in particular ready for KOI, which I now may not attend.   Ah, well. 

Thanks, Ty.  Do you know if they are using acrylic enamel, basecost, single stage urethane alkyld enamel or.... ?  I ask, only because each are different "prices".  And I guess they are charging you for the "paint" even though is isn't "complete".  The same "color" in different paints (lacquer versus enamel versus urethanes, etc) can be as much a 100% or more in price difference.

HI Bill. I have no idea. I just asked for the type silver for Mercedes for the late 1990's and took what he gave me. I have mixed with clear dope. Now I will go ask.  It never occured to me it might be anything other than the base tint which should mix with any carrier/binder.  Usually silver is just aluminum powder, but one never knows without checking. I will do this Monday. 

 This would be good stuff to know, I'd appreciate the info too Ty.

Ty,

I get paint mixed all the time at the local auto paint store. The only thing you have to be careful of is if you are using a pearl or metallic paint, you have to ask if it uses a liquid additive for the pearl (or metallic or whatever). If it's liquid, it's probably in a urethane carrier. I just have the guy substitute a dry form of pearl or metal flake or whatever. He will complain that if he does that it will not be EXACTLY the same color. I will say that fine. Then get home and mix in my own binder (dope). So far, no problems with this method, though I've had some unpleasant experiences that taught me this.

 Randy,

 So you just take what they give you and mix it with clear dope then, right? What kind of ratio do you go with between the clear and your "color"?

HI Ty,

I was going on what the carrier is.  The toners mix into any carrier is what I am getting at.  If the carrier is dope then the "enamel" doesn't matter since the enamel "carrier" was not put into your paint.  If you only got the "toner/pigment" with no carrier added, originally.

Automotive paints ca throw a monkey wrench into the enamel/dope/nitrate/etc., layering.  Especially since automotive acrylic enamel doesn't fit into the "Enamel" category like the old cans we used to get from the hardware to paint furniture, etc.

Just thinking out loud and Mark ain't helping!  He's involved in painting on a daily basis sorta and knows more about the formulations than I do.  Of course he won't mix products like this poor ol' broke redneck has always had to.......    (funny what you find out when you ain't got the money to use just one thing all the way through)

Big Bear