Are you going to use non tautening butyrate, or nitrate dope? I've read here on the forums that Nitrate dope has more solids in it and fills balsa better, the flip side is that it does weigh more. On my next plane (the Chipmonk) I will use nitrate as a base, with butyrate as the top. I'm thinking it will have open bays. I'm curious how sheeting the wing will add to the total weigh, if it does.
Brian
Nitrate dope is not a higher solids product than butyrate dope. Coat for coat it does not weigh more than butyrate dope. Nitrate dope was the first dope developed around the first world war and was the standard until after WWII. Butyrate dope was developed to provide a dope system that ignited less easily and burned more slowly than nitrate dope. Nitrate dope is a nitrocellulose product which is chemically similar to gunpowder, igniting easily and burning almost explosively; butyrate dope, which is cellulose-acetate-butyrate, is more difficult to ignite and burns much more slowly...a big deal if you are flying along in your Aeronca Champ at 5,000' AGL and develop an in-flight fire.
Nitrate will develop slightly more film tension as it shrinks than will butyrate, but the tensile strength of the dried film is less than that of butyrate. Butyrate is fuel resistant whereas nitrate is not fuel resistant. I have not found that there is any difference in "sandability" of nitrate or butyrate in years of using it on both full-scale airplane restorations or on my models. Whether you start with nitrate or butyrate comes down to personal preference. The only requirement for using nitrate dope in aviation is for the first coats on the Ceconite process as specified in the Ceconite STC for full-scale, type-certificated airplanes. If your personal preference is for using nitrate for the initial coats on your models then by all means go ahead; there just isn't any real reason to do so except for your personal preference.
Tautening type dopes, both nitrate and butyrate, will sand more easily than the non-tautening types due to the plasticizer in the non-tautening dopes. The plasticized dopes tend to "ball up" on the sandpaper if you are sanding dry. However, I have not had any problems sanding the non-tautening types. I sand wet using water with a drop or two of dishwashing detergent in a quart or so of water and have no problems with the non-tautening types.