Author Topic: NAPA primer (Read 7388 times)

Paul Taylor · « **on:** January 27, 2013, 01:30:08 PM »

But I need a quick response to this post as I would like to spray today.

Thanks in advance for the help. I really appreacate it.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30076.0

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #1 on:** January 27, 2013, 01:37:13 PM »

Hi Paul;
I think that if it's a lacquer based sandable primer, it should be OK, just give it as much drying time as possible. Maybe do a quick test on something if you can. I use several different types of rattle can primer for different paints can't remember a compactablity problem.
Good luck and have fun,
Dan McEntee

RC Storick · « **Reply #2 on:** January 27, 2013, 01:41:14 PM »

Quote from: Paul Taylor on January 27, 2013, 01:30:08 PM

But I need a quick response to this post as I would like to spray today.

Thanks in advance for the help. I really appreacate it.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30076.0

Absolutely not! The only spay can primer that works 100% of the time is NAPA Colorline Part number DC540 gray primer. Dope is not paint its glue and the stuff you are trying to use sometimes stays soft.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #3 on:** January 27, 2013, 01:50:52 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on January 27, 2013, 01:41:14 PM

Absolutely not! The only spay can primer that works 100% of the time is NAPA Colorline Part number DC540 gray primer. Dope is not paint its glue and the stuff you are trying to use sometimes stays soft.

Interesting. Do you use DC540 Sparky? Over dope?

I'm curious because I've got a plane almost ready for paint, it will be sprayed with Brodak dope. I usually don't even use any primer I just go right to color. Might be fun to try a good primer in this case since this plane will be primarily white.

proparc · « **Reply #4 on:** January 27, 2013, 01:53:15 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on January 27, 2013, 01:41:14 PM

Absolutely not! The only spay can primer that works 100% of the time is NAPA Colorline Part number DC540 gray primer. Dope is not paint its glue and the stuff you are trying to use sometimes stays soft.

Thanks for the great tip Robert.

Larry Fernandez · « **Reply #5 on:** January 27, 2013, 02:20:39 PM »

Hi Paul,
You will get a lot of different opinions here, so here is mine.

I have used the Dupli-Color Filler Primer, what they call the High-Build Formula.
The label on back says FP101 Grey Filler 2691632101

This stuff has great adhesion, fills wonderfully and is very easy to sand. I have shot Sig, Brodak, and Certified Dope over it with no problem.
I've used this primer on my last five planes and I will put these finishes up against anyone(exept maybe Igor's).

Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team

--- The bottom two pix are before clear-coats and polishing

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #6 on:** January 27, 2013, 04:50:18 PM »

Wow Larry that looks awesome!
I picked up the NAPA brand per Sparky.

This might be a topic for a test at a later date.
Take a sheet of wood, cut a hole in it, silk it, and put a finish on it. Take it to the field and expose it to the same environment as a plane.

Thanks for all the quick replies. Stay tune for pictures of a gray Force.

Eric Viglione · « **Reply #7 on:** January 27, 2013, 06:13:45 PM »

Depending on local availability, if some of you can't get Sparkys reccomended napa, I use Sherwin Williams automotive ultra fill light gray. It's a lacquer primer with talc, very high fill capability and everything I've tried sticks to it. Sig & brodak Dope, epoxy, etc. comes in cans or aerosol. As with any primer, it can be heavy if you don't sand it 98 percent off after the surface is filled and just leave the seeds. I then shoot a blocking coat and sand until its opaque or almost translucent. It's still providing plenty of a blocking coat at this point and adhesion for the next color, and the surface should be filled. Sanding primer is a filthy job, be prepared for a mess of gray powder. I use compressed air (outside) then windex after sanding primer.

It's also worth mentioning that before you shoot a rattle can primer, I like to sit the can in a pan of warm water then shake it like at least a full minute, put it back in the pan, then another minute of shaking and you are good to go. This goes for just about any rattle cans I use, not just primer.
Hope that helps,
EricV

https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=G2A147

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #8 on:** January 30, 2013, 07:39:50 PM »

Well Gray is a color.
It went on good. And seems to sand off ok.
Time will tell.

RC Storick · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2013, 12:16:52 AM »

It will be fine. 2 or 3 light coats of dope and your ready for clear.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2013, 06:32:53 AM »

Quote from: Paul Taylor on January 30, 2013, 07:39:50 PM

Well Gray is a color.
It went on good. And seems to sand off ok.
Time will tell.

If it sands well I predict you'll have great results. Should cut easily and quickly without buildup on the sand paper. I've never used the NAPA primer but will try it. The Duplicolor has always worked well for me but there have been instances when as area remains soft for longer then I'd like.

RC Storick · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2013, 06:34:59 AM »

Quote from: Randy Ryan on January 31, 2013, 06:32:53 AM

If it sands well I predict you'll have great results. Should cut easily and quickly without buildup on the sand paper. I've never used the NAPA primer but will try it. The Duplicolor has always worked well for me but there have been instances when as area remains soft for longer then I'd like.

Randy NAPA primer never gets gooey. Drys hard and sands like butter.

RC Storick · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2013, 06:40:33 AM »

Quote from: Paul Taylor on January 30, 2013, 07:39:50 PM

Well Gray is a color.
It went on good. And seems to sand off ok.
Time will tell.

Constructive criticism Sand where the canopy and cheek cowl meets to a flowing line and add fillits now. I use the Superfil from wicks aircraft. Super light and sands like butter. Order today and have it tomorrow tell Scott you saw them here.

Larry Fernandez · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2013, 10:56:27 AM »

Quote from: Randy Ryan on January 31, 2013, 06:32:53 AM

The Duplicolor has always worked well for me but there have been instances when as area remains soft for longer then I'd like.

I too have noticed that if you put on too much material at once, the primer will take a very long to to completely dry.

I spray on a medium wet coat, let it dry for about four hours and hit it again with another medium wet coat.
I will then let this gas off for about a week before sanding. Just because the material is dry to the touch, it does not mean that it has dried all the way through.

Nobody has mentioned it here, but I wet sand the primer. This will keep the paper from loading up and makes for better cutting action.
Very messy but speeds up the sanding process. Also, add a few drops of dish washing soap into a bucket of warm water. Again, this will help to keep the sand paper from loading up.

Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2013, 11:16:37 AM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on January 31, 2013, 06:40:33 AM

Constructive criticism Sand where the canopy and cheek cowl meets to a flowing line and add fillits now. I use the Superfil from wicks aircraft. Super light and sands like butter. Order today and have it tomorrow tell Scott you saw them here.

Thanks Sparky!
I'll get some ordered.

Mike Scholtes · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2013, 09:19:34 PM »

Do we know if the Napa primer melts into the dope that is layered over it, and fuses together, as would a dope-based primer? Or is it just a mechanical bond between the primer with sanding "teeth" in it and the dope overlayer?

How about the DupliColor?

I had a bad experience with a spray can grey auto primer (Rustoleum brand) under dope. When I lifted the trim tape it took the white dope base layer right off with the tape. The dope had not adhered chemically with the primer.

Having seen Larry F's jaw-dropping finishes in person I have to believe what he says, but still wonder whether there is a real bond with the dope and a non-dope primer.

RC Storick · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2013, 07:57:10 AM »

Quote from: Mike Scholtes on February 01, 2013, 09:19:34 PM

Do we know if the Napa primer melts into the dope that is layered over it, and fuses together, as would a dope-based primer? Or is it just a mechanical bond between the primer with sanding "teeth" in it and the dope overlayer?

How about the DupliColor?

I had a bad experience with a spray can grey auto primer (Rustoleum brand) under dope. When I lifted the trim tape it took the white dope base layer right off with the tape. The dope had not adhered chemically with the primer.

Having seen Larry F's jaw-dropping finishes in person I have to believe what he says, but still wonder whether there is a real bond with the dope and a non-dope primer.

I have used this primer for 20 Years and never had a problem. Dope is a glue and the vehicle and the thinner is the bonding agent. As long as the thinner is hotter than the lacquer based primer it melts into it. I have used this with all dopes. Aerogloss,Sig,Randolph,Brodak and Zero issues. If you try I'll bet you will continue to use it. 4 reasons cheap,easy sanding,light and convenient.

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2013, 09:11:46 PM »

Did not have much time this weekend but did manage to get one panel done. Sands off easy with 400 wet paper.

Author Topic: NAPA primer (Read 7388 times)

Paul Taylor

NAPA primer

Dan McEntee

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RC Storick

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wwwarbird

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proparc

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Larry Fernandez

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Paul Taylor

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Paul Taylor

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