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Author Topic: My new painting and finishing method  (Read 2646 times)

Offline Warren Leadbeatter

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My new painting and finishing method
« on: January 26, 2010, 09:59:00 PM »
Hi guys, just thought I would share the way I finish and paint my models now.  Painting and finishing is always a struggle for me. I decided to speak to a guy that had a nicely finished model and I used some of his tips.

1. Completely sand the model lightly using 400 sand paper.
2. Fill any holes or major imperfections with your favourite filler. I use Polyfiller for interior timber.
3. Paint the whole model with 2 part clear polyurethane thinned to 50% and allow to dry completely.
4. Mix up some Polyfiller with water to make it very thin so it can be brushed on and allow to dry.
5. Sand the whole model with 400 sand paper and sand most of the polyfiller away leaving it behind in the grain. The polyfiller is very easy to sand, much easier than dope and talc or sanding sealer.
6. To obtain an even better finish complete steps 4 and 5 again.
7. Apply a coat of dope to seal the filler and allow to dry then sand lightly again and remove all dust.
8. Apply top coat of 2 pac polyurethane or epoxy enamel and allow to dry at least 24 hrs.
9. Mask and add trim colours as required using same type of paint as used in step 8.
10. Add decals.

Sounds simple enough, but I hate sanding as I always tend to do some damage along the way ie while sanding and therefore create another part that needs filler, so I try to keep the sanding to a minimum. The above method I learnt from a fellow Aussie flyer keeps the sanding to a minimum while still providing a very good finish.

Here's a pic of my latest model done using the above method.




 
 

Warren Leadbeatter
Port Stephens, Australia
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2010, 09:49:31 AM »
A couple of questions:

1. What do you mix the Polyfiller with? Dope, urethane?
2. What do you do over open bays?
3. What (specifically) Polyfiller are you using? There are a number of brands and types. (is this what you're talking about: http://www.polyfilla.com.au/content_120.htm )

The process is much the same as most of us use, but the materials are interesting.
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2010, 10:50:59 AM »
Warren --

You specifically omitted covering bare wood with silkspan or tissue at any stage. I've been trying to decide if that should be standard practice or not.

You think not, so what in your experience led to that decision?

       Larry Fulwider

Offline Warren Leadbeatter

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2010, 02:31:34 PM »
Larry,

On the wing the procedure is slightly different.  I covered the wing in polyspan, with silkspan on the tips. This was done at between step 6 and 7 in the previous procedure.

1. 3 coats of thinned dope on the wing structure first
2. Apply polyspan and wet silkspan with thinned dope
3. Heat shrink polyspan.
4. Apply 3 more coats of thinned dope, sanding between each coat.
5. Apply watered down Polyfilla and sand.
6. Apply final coat of thinned dope before painting.


Steve,

Yes Polyfilla is the product you provided the link to. In a yellow bottle. It has a thick wet consistency in the bottle, it is water based, so you can easily water it down. It sands sooo easily, dries fast and colour matches balsa as well.

Cheers

 
Warren Leadbeatter
Port Stephens, Australia
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Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2010, 04:26:06 PM »
wish i saw this 4 days ago before i stated on my legacy - ......would have made for a WAY easier finish
In the battle of airplane versus ground, the ground is yet to lose

Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2010, 11:59:11 AM »
Larry,

On the wing the procedure is slightly different.  I covered the wing in polyspan, with silkspan on the tips. This was done at between step 6 and 7 in the previous procedure.

1. 3 coats of thinned dope on the wing structure first
2. Apply polyspan and wet silkspan with thinned dope
3. Heat shrink polyspan.
4. Apply 3 more coats of thinned dope, sanding between each coat.
5. Apply watered down Polyfilla and sand.
6. Apply final coat of thinned dope before painting.


Warren (and everyone -- let's take a poll  :-\ )

What I meant was, on the non-open bay areas, such as the fuselage, some folks say it is a "requirement" of a good finish to put silkspan (or tissue, or . . .) somewhere in the mix. I don't know that I have heard all the "arguments" (in the mathematical sense) for and against the practice. You choose not to -- reason(s) why?

       Larry Fulwider

Offline Warren Leadbeatter

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2010, 03:36:43 PM »
Nup, I dont do it. Just adds weight ie unless the model has open bays in the fuselage that need covering.
Warren Leadbeatter
Port Stephens, Australia
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2010, 03:38:43 PM »
Nup, I dont do it. Just adds weight ie unless the model has open bays in the fuselage that need covering.
Thanks for answering all the questions.

One more, though. What are the advantages of two part poly over ??? . Two part systems are a personal no-no for some of us. One part polyurethane (water based) would be a bad substitute, my guess?

       Larry Fulwider

Offline Warren Leadbeatter

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2010, 06:15:37 PM »
Hi Larry,

I guess we use what we use because we dont have easy access to all the proper modelling sealers, and paints here. Most of the serious models here are painted with 2 pac poly auto paint and applied with a professional spray gun.  I really couldnt be bothered with all the fuss which is why I just use rattle can epoxy enamel (aka rust guard here), which I think is similar to your rustoleum paint.  I dont know much about water based polyurethane, as I havent seen it.

Cheers
Warren Leadbeatter
Port Stephens, Australia
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2010, 10:52:26 PM »

 . . . Most of the serious models here are painted with 2 pac poly auto paint and applied with a professional spray gun.  I really couldnt be bothered with all the fuss which is why I just use rattle can epoxy enamel (aka rust guard here), which I think is similar to your rustoleum paint. 
. . .

Warren --

OK, gotcha. I did think you were using a clear with a spray gun for the base coat poly.

Thanks  H^^. I'll quite pestering you now.

      Larry Fulwider

Offline Bryan Higgins

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2010, 12:52:42 PM »
Warren

Thanks for the articale.  I will have to try this Polyfill .
Your Ramrod looks very clean and mean.  Bryan D>K
Bryan R higgins Jr.
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Offline Randy Powell

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2010, 01:31:13 PM »
I also have a new finishing method --- don't paint when it's cold and humid.  You'd think I'd learn, but I haven't yet.  ;D
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Offline EddyR

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2010, 03:51:34 PM »
Larry   I say always cover the body with paper or silk if you are going to use a dope finish. My All American that you have seem many times doesn't have any paper on it. It was smooth three years ago when I put the new body on it. Now all the grain shows and it is very hard to get clean. Paper adds a lot of strength and the wood needs less finish on it.
Ed
Locust NC 40 miles from the Huntersville field

Offline Victor Jeffreys

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2010, 06:32:13 PM »
What do you use to fuelproof the decals?

Offline Pinecone

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2010, 08:14:55 AM »
Any idea on where to get Pollyfilla in the US?  Or a good substitute?
Terry Carraway
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Offline Leester

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2010, 09:38:18 AM »
According to a link on Google it's not sold in the USA.
Leester
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Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: My new painting and finishing method
« Reply #16 on: March 28, 2010, 03:29:46 PM »
According to a link on Google it's not sold in the USA.

yeah - but I can send ya some  y1
In the battle of airplane versus ground, the ground is yet to lose


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