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Author Topic: Lustercote over Rustoleum  (Read 1585 times)

Online James Mills

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Lustercote over Rustoleum
« on: June 14, 2009, 04:28:20 PM »
Can I use Lustercote over Rustoleum primer?


Thanks,

James
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: Lustercote over Rustoleum
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2009, 12:24:00 PM »
James --

Good timing on your part! I signed on to do a search on LustreKote / Rustoleum compatibility in general.

Maybe one of the rattle can gurus can fill us in. My application would be LustreKote black overlapping Rustoleum red, with both the red and black topped with LustreKote Clear Gloss.

Or, I could go the other way, if Rustoleum over LustreKote is safer. But, I would like the LustreKote clear over both, in either case.

Larry Fulwider
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Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Lustercote over Rustoleum
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2009, 12:08:08 AM »
Quote from: James Mills on June 14, 2009, 04:28:20 PM
Can I use Lustercote over Rustoleum primer?


Thanks,

James

Hi James,

1st, I can't believe I am posting on the "P & F" section of this forum! Lately I usually avoid painting at all costs. But I still do it on cowels, wheel pants, and some fuselage parts on my 30 pound planes.

FWIW:

I am a big believer in listening to the experts (who write the books) when it comes to painting. Most of them say that while it is possible to "mix" brands, you REALLY need to know what you are doing if you mix undercoats and top coats etc.,  and it is often risky to do so. Most experts suggest trying to stay with the same brand as much as possible for best results.

With this said, I have had excellent results using the Lustercoat primer then lustercoat paint and lustercoat gloss top coat. I have known people who have had poor results using Lustercoat paints, but it usually turns out that they used another "brand" of primer, or no primer at all. Sometimes the poor results were not apparent until sun exposure, or months had passed and the color changed, etc. .... I have never had these problems and I have planes that are over 10 years old with >800 flights on them and the lustercoat finish still looks like new and the color match to my monokote is still excellent.

On the other hand, good luck with your experiments.  :!

Regards,  H^^




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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Lustercote over Rustoleum
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2009, 08:57:28 AM »
A search for Lustercoat and Rustoleum should bring up answers you might be looking for.  DOC Holliday
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: Lustercote over Rustoleum
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2009, 11:37:58 AM »
Quote from: john e. holliday on June 24, 2009, 08:57:28 AM
A search for Lustercoat and Rustoleum should bring up answers you might be looking for.  DOC Holliday

Yes, I did that early on. One of the problems with searches here and "other forums" is that creative folks, like modelers, are often not bothered much by trivial spelling issues -- particularly the exact names of products. For example, LustreKote (correct spelling and caps) may start out "Luster . . ." or "Lustre . . ."; the seventh letter may be "c", "C", "k", or "K"; the ending may be ". . . ote" or ". . . oat". Fortunately, the search engine here isn't case sensitive, which helps a tad.

Anyway, I have a two-year-old red Rust-Oleum stabilizer, and I have started a "fast" test "sandwich" of black LustreKote, Brodak white film covering (windex method), trim tape, and clear LustreKote over the whole thing. I'll report adhesion results Monday.

A better description than a "fast" test might be a "half-fast" test, as time saved is only the initial Rust-Oleum curing. Also, "half-fast" (pronounced phonetically) is a better descriptor of the value of the results, for seven or eight reasons, which you can probably figure out. Besides, the test will only prove at best that it is or is not a potential solution, rather than if it is a viable solution.

   Larry Fulwider
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Offline Larry Fulwider

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Re: Lustercote over Rustoleum
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2009, 12:57:22 PM »
Quote from: Larry Fulwider on June 25, 2009, 11:37:58 AM
. . .
Anyway, I have a two-year-old red Rust-Oleum stabilizer, and I have started a "fast" test "sandwich" of black LustreKote, Brodak white film covering (windex method), trim tape, and clear LustreKote over the whole thing. I'll report adhesion results Monday.
 . . .

Test Results: With proper surface prep, LustreKote black will adhere fairly well to aged red Rust-Oleum (assume all residual Rust-Oleum has long since flashed off) . LustreKote clear coat will probably adhere to aged red Rust-Oleum. I didn’t test a fresh Rust-Oleum base; which might work better, or might work worse. Generic “Scotch” tape was used as the test pull tape.
   As you can see in the area circled in the picture, the clear did not stick to the Rust-Oleum at the start of the tape pull. However, I did not sand or steel wool over the red except where the black was masked off. However, the clear didn’t peel back away from the tape pull, just where tape was actually pressed down hard.
   Also, I took no care to sand all the way to the edge of the tape under the black. At the unsanded edge, you can see a black chip lifted, though further down the pull (sanded) the sandwich stayed intact.  The adhesion was good enough that on the trailing side of the tape pull, the LustreKote clear survived the pull on the unscuffed red Rust-Oleum. 

My optimistic interpretation of the tape pull is that if the surface is roughened, applying LustreKote pigmented or clear over Rust-Oleum will work about as well as applying LustreKote over MonoKote – Marginal, but not an abysmal disaster. I wouldn’t do it unless “stuck” with a poor color match choice or some such, and would not do it over a wide area – just for trim color. That is, I am going to do it for my application.

Larry Fulwider
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