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Author Topic: krylon  (Read 1546 times)

Offline roger

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krylon
« on: April 23, 2009, 03:37:11 PM »
right to the point.. i just read a bunchof stuff about rustoleum finishing what about krylon? is it the same as rusto.?
roger
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Offline Robert McHam

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Re: krylon
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2009, 05:45:44 PM »
Roger, there have been a number of threads in more than one forum covering the use of rattle can paints and several name brands including Duplicolor and Krylon have been tried and the reason that Rust-o-leum  comes up the most is because by and large Rust-o-leum's paint formula is the best according to what I have read. I have no idea what makes it better but it is my understanding that any other brand just won't do the trick when it comes to being fuel proof.
The story does not end here. The Rust-o-leum paint itself is not created equal. I have been advised to stay away from textured paints including flats and metallics. Also Clear does not hold up well.  One more thing I have been advised is that the lighter colors hold up better than darker colors. For instance white does best while black is least resistant.

I have no clue what makes the difference but this is the low down as it has been explained to me.

In all fairness I should add that the Minwax water based polyurethane clear handles fuel quite well but has a nasty drawback that some can live with. It yellows from sunlight.

Robert
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posthole_digger

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Re: krylon
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2009, 09:14:22 AM »
Did you mean Minwax water based polycrylic clear? If so, I don't think it is fuel proof. If you did mean polyurethane, I didn't know MW made a water soluble product.

Paul
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Offline Ralph Wenzel (d)

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Re: krylon
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2009, 11:06:55 AM »
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Ralph Wenzel
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Offline Robert McHam

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Re: krylon
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2009, 11:47:27 AM »
Thanks Ralph. They come in rattle cans too.

AS for what I said in my previous post, I may have to eat my words. I guess it depends on who you ask. Some clearly say yea, others say a definite nay.

Here are some quotes I have gathered from other threads in another forum. It really is hard who to believe anymore.
Each of these quotes are from a different person. I left the names out on purpose because I am noy taking sides on the issue.

First one:
"I just orderd nelson's clear around $28.00 for a quart thats with the crosslink.I tested waterbase pollyurathane,it's no good,cost me $11.00 just to say it's no good  I will let you know how nelson's is when I use it."

someone else:
"I tested Minwax Brand "Fast-Drying POLYURETHANE Superior Durability". It comes in rattle-cans in gloss, semi and satin and is pretty cheap too. I tested it on some panels and it sprays very smoothly. After it cured 48 hours it was impervious to raw glow fuel even after being left on it for a couple of hours. The only problem is that it takes a long time to dry despite what the label says. I haven't done any long term UV exposure tests so I don't know how bad is bad but I'd stay away from whites and other light colors because of that yellowing problem Campy mentioned.

I also tested Minwax Spar Urethane and its fuelproof too but they tint it to give wood a golden hue. It looks great on wooden interplane struts and stuff, but white fabric - not so nice."

another one:
"I have used the Minwax Polycrylic. There are a couple of caveats with this.

1. Let the poly dry/cure A MINIMUM of one week before exposing to glow fuel.

2. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE RESIDUE REMAIN ON THE PLANE/FINISH OVER 4 HOURS !!
After about 4 hours, the residue will soften the polycrylic."

just one more:
"I have read that Minwax water based "Policrylic" will stand up to glow fuel, so I have used it on a couple of model recently. On the gas model it has worked well so far (about a month now), however I have not flown the glow powered model yet. I have read that it needs at least a week to cure, before using it with glow fuel. Supposedly, it wont yellow either. "

I guess we will have to try these ourselves and see... ::)
And may the best clear win!

Robert
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Offline Patrick Rowan

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Re: krylon
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2009, 12:52:45 PM »
Dope & Auto paints have proven to be good choices. Brett's epoxy finish looks like a good one as well. (I got to look it over close at last years Nats).

Everything else is a throw of the dice!

Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. Sometimes they work but do not last well. Taping off over rattle can paints can be a disaster. (No chemical bond with Krylon)
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Offline roger

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Re: krylon
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2009, 01:28:00 PM »
so any way what about krylon vs. rustoleum?????


    enamal is enamal is enamal....right?
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Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: krylon
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2009, 05:19:22 PM »
The Krylon that I'm used to seeing is supposed to be lacquer of some sort...not really compatible with dope or Rustoleum.

I have used film on the wing of one CG Buster for NW Sport Race, and Pactra Formula U (spray can) on the fuselage and tail surfaces. I understand that Forumla U is gone, but there might be other brands of polyurethane colors in spray cans. This is a combination that works pretty well, if you want film on your wings.

I'm opposed to using paint other than 'dope' on open frameworks, because repairs are then a serious problem. Dope is probably the lightest finish you can install. A combination of dope and Dupli-Color is my idea of a good path.  y1 Steve 
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"The United States has become a place where professional athletes and entertainers are mistaken for people of importance." - Robert Heinlein

In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.  In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings.

Offline roger

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Re: krylon
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2009, 07:35:49 PM »
ok
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Offline jim gilmore

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Re: krylon
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2009, 09:55:44 PM »
I do not have a problem using dope per say. Just that Id like to stay away from needing an spray setup.
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Offline EddyR

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Re: krylon
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2009, 07:02:49 PM »
Dupli-Color and dope are totally compatable. I intermix them and have no problems. Dupli-Color is none shrink so it will not pull filet's. Use Dupli-Color clear over there color and you will have a glass like finish with no rub out needed.
Ed
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Locust NC 40 miles from the Huntersville field

Offline Larry Renger

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Re: krylon
« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2009, 12:57:49 AM »
I have found that the spraycan Minwax spar varnish is proof to burned fuel, but not high nitro raw fuel.  Message to the wise - do test panels, and then test them to destruction if possible. By this, I mean raw fuel, masking tape peel test and yellowing in the sun.

 I have had a LOT of misconceptions about what works in the past, and have at least one "hangar queen" that looks wonderful, but isn't flyable due to the combination of finish products.  Minwax polyurethane oil base over Rust-o-leum metallic blue.  Not actually fuelproof, and no layer to layer adhesion, but boy, does it have spectacularly shiney and deep color!  Except where it has separated.... HB~>
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 BTW, Dracula Sucks!  A closed mouth gathers no feet!

Offline roger

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Re: krylon
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2009, 04:29:25 PM »
the "metalic" silver is really great , looks like the real aluminium stuff but dont get to eccited its not fuel proof and makes a sticky mess  %^@ S?P
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