Yes, I would also like to know if you can put klasskote clear over butyrate colors.  And will the clear tend to yellow ? 

No can do ! The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you.    This is what it says when I try to go there. 

I know they are still in business. Our shop just got an order from them last week. They have good service and seem like good folks, but I would still like to hear straight from a modeler with firsthand experience at putting their clear over butyrate dope.

Hi Bill. A few years ago I put Klass Kote over the same base as yours, nitrate, butyrate and Klass Kote and it went on very well. Do not know about yellowing as it is on a Stuka and the bottom which is sort of light blue looks fine. Wings are sheeted so no idea about flexibility issue. Main thing is to be absolutely and positively certain that the dope is thoroughly gassed off. Leave it in the sun or a closed car in the sun until there is no more odor. Sealing in the evaporating solvents will leave very bad results. Years ago I shot clear Hobby poxy over dope a bit too soon and after about six months it became orange peel beyond belief. Klass Kote was very nice and predictable to use and sprayed perfectly. Start by following instructions and thin more only if necessary. Very fuel proof as well. Do not know about decal coverage as my markings were painted. Finish still looks like new.

Don Boka.

Yes, you can use Klasskote over butyrate and decals.  Go light on the thinner as well as the spray first couple of coats over the decals.  I posted pictures of my silk covered Buster that had nitrate, butyrate, color Klasskote and then clear Klasskote.  Plane looks just as good today is it did when I finished it.

John

Last week I happened to call Klass Kote. Went to the website, called the number there, a gentleman answered. Sounded like the owner/supplier. Very knowledgeable and helpful. I am exploring options for sealing buty dope. Tired of the stuff failing after a while. No dope is really fuel proof, far as I can tell. Eventually it gets wiped off or some stuff seeps under it. The fellow was great. He recommending that the buty gas off for a month. His point was that buty dope never really dries completely, will continue to gas off, tho the gas off diminishes eventually. He said turn the heat up so that room temperature is between 75 and 80 then hit the model with two quick flash off dry coats. The idea is to spray a very light coat that sets up and dries in thirty seconds or so. These two coats seal in the dope. In an half hour or so, hit the plane with a wet coat. Check about this. I think I am remembering the procedure correctly. The Klass Kote is flexible enough to be applied over open bays, but it will not shrink open bays like dope. He thinks the best way to go about painting open bay planes is to use nitrate up through sealing the covering. Let that gas off for about a week. Then use Klass Kote color and clear. Klass Kote sticks better to nitrate. The nitrate only needing a week or so to cure.

He recommends cleaning the spray guns with high quality lacquer thinner formulated to work with epoxy paint. Thinning with Klass Kote reducers. The part B hardener is compatible with K and B Superpoxy and Hobby Poxy. So it's possible to reclaim any old paint left over from the good ole days. The prices for the products seems reasonable to me. Considering amount used to complete a plane. Perhaps I'm deceiving myself, but I feel epoxy paints are safer to use than the newer car Urethanes.

Much interesting information on the website. A decent amount of colors available. Custom colors are possible. No doubt there are ways to use pigments with these colors, ways to mix your own. I was real interested in the opacity of the paint. If you've done red dope for instance, you probably have discovered the need to have an absolutely uniform undercoat, since the undercoat will show through the translucent red. Opacity is better with Klass Kote. I'll be trying the product in a few weeks.

Brett Buck should chime in here...isn't that what he finished his Nat's winner with ?

My Buster that was finished last year with silk, nitrate, butyrate (for filling), silver butyrate, Klasskote color and 1 coat clear K&B superpoxy (have plenty left from years past).  I didn't wait a month for it to gas off.  Maybe 2 weeks tops.  I just finished a Dick's Dream (single channel radio control) with the same process except I used silk span instead of silk and it was probably less than a week since the last coat of dope and the first coat of Klasskote.  Haven't seen any issues.

John