Can it be used to fill balsa grain on solid flat surfaces in place of silkspan ?   If so, which side out, shiny or dull ?  I have already started prepping surfaces with non-taut nitrate.

I would agree with Gil, but if it's really Japanese tissue, I think it's a bit of a waste. A Domestic tissue would do just fine, might even be better for balsa surfaces than real Japanese tissue, and a lot cheaper. We used to buy it from the LHS...or Peck Polymers...I'm not sure where to get it now, but some guys I know used to just buy colored wrapping paper from craft stores and card shops. I could probably check around and get an answer...but I'd try Michael's or whatever craft shops you've got in your area. Hobby Lobby would be high on my list...   Steve

If it's real Esaki tissue, then give it to a free-flight modeler.  I've found that Esaki is really hard to get to laminate onto balsa with dope without voids -- it's actually too high a quality.  Domestic tissue seems to stick down better.

Best of all is still silkspan, though.

Hi.

I use the Lightest Esaki Lite-Flite in my free flight wings, as decoration over Salzer tissue or Icarex, and directly on carbon D-box.
Regarding the question which side up, shiny or matt, in this use there is no weight difference as it'll anyway be impregnated with dope. Maybe it's more important with indoor models. BUT I have found that when applied matt side outside, it sticks much better to carbon or Icarex. I brush 2 thin coats of dope to surface, let it dry and then glue the wet paper on with acetone. If you put shiny side up, the edges of paper will start lifting. Shiny side has more contact area.
But a well sealed balsa surface has more dope to stick onto, it makes less difference.
I like Lite-Flite because it's quite strong also when wet. With enough water it is easy to align accurately without wrinkles.

Happy Christmas,

Lauri

Yep. Like in Las Vegas.