Author Topic: how do I get a smooth finish om my next build? (Read 1954 times)

phil myers · « **on:** May 30, 2009, 07:58:07 AM »

In error, I posted this message elsewhere on the forum, but I was looking for some tips on achieving the smooth classy finish on my next build. After seeing Maurice' nice Brodak Super Clown finished I fancy having a go myself. It'll only be my 2nd build, learned a lot on the Akromaster just finished, but there's plenty of room for improvement!! I'll say!
Not sure what the finished weight should be or the tank size(3oz?) I plan to use a asp 21 for power.
Any tips and ideas would be much appreciated.... Cheers Phil

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2009, 09:35:57 AM »

Phil,

Have a read through this thread, good stuff.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=6622.msg54453#msg54453

phil myers · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2009, 07:39:02 AM »

Thanks Randy..... Brilliant stuff on finishing techniques which I'll enjoy reading.
Cheers Phil

Matt Colan · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2009, 07:45:43 AM »

One thing I do is keep my fingernails cut short so when I go to grab the fuselage or the wing, I won't put a dent in the wood because the wood is soft. Right now I am building an Oriental Plus with a foam wing in it, what I do with the wing is I work on the wing so that it is always in the cradle, that way if it were on the workbench and there was a rogue scrap of wood on it, I won't dent it.

Hope this helps

john e. holliday · « **Reply #4 on:** June 01, 2009, 08:22:49 AM »

Have you seen where some of the guys have a big sheet of soft foam for their planes to lay on while working on them. Then some guys have them on a paint rack. Myself, no matter how short I cut my nails or clean the area I wind up banging the plane against something. DOC Holliday

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #5 on:** June 02, 2009, 05:28:10 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on June 01, 2009, 08:22:49 AM

Have you seen where some of the guys have a big sheet of soft foam for their planes to lay on while working on them. Then some guys have them on a paint rack. Myself, no matter how short I cut my nails or clean the area I wind up banging the plane against something. DOC Holliday

I use an old thick wool blanket.

Leo Mehl · « **Reply #6 on:** June 02, 2009, 12:22:57 PM »

Sand, sand,sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, and sand.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #7 on:** June 02, 2009, 02:56:21 PM »

Quote from: Leo Mehl on June 02, 2009, 12:22:57 PM

Sand, sand,sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, and sand.

Allot of people do that and just end up with sanded through spots and a rotten finish anyway. Proper fits and material selection minimize the sanding required. Only shaped blocks and edges should require vigorous sanding, but they also require progressive sanding, a learned skill. I sand very little except for shaped areas because I watch the material thicknesses and cut parts accurately.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** June 02, 2009, 03:15:04 PM »

>>how do I get a smooth finish om my next build? <<

Good question. I'll let you know when I manage to do on. Finishing is a process. As Randy notes, it starts with selection of materials. I will often sand sheets of balsa to smooth imperfections when I can lay them flat on the bench, but seldom once they are on the plane.

Remember: No finish is ever completed; only abandoned.

Glen Wearden · « **Reply #9 on:** June 17, 2009, 07:12:12 AM »

I have a question about the sanding process. What is the best thing to use for cleaning the sanding residue off between coats/sanding, etc. Is plain alcohol OK? Or maybe denatured alcohol? Or plain water? Thanks.

Glen Wearden

Bill Heher · « **Reply #10 on:** June 22, 2009, 12:48:12 PM »

I make a "tack rag" by spraying an old diaper ( real old - the cloth kind ) with a mist of sray can clear. It makes it sticky enough to grab the dust, but doesn't leave anything on the wood.

Robert W · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2009, 08:51:17 AM »

Hi Bill

Is that an old clean diaper?

Bryan Higgins · « **Reply #12 on:** July 03, 2009, 07:56:46 AM »

Hello - Phil Myers

I had asked this question when i first became a member a year ago at stunthanger.
The answer is given here by many members you just have to look at all the older
post.
I to wanted to do a model with one of those nice paint jobs......

And from experience i can tell you to start with a 1/2 A kit not a full size stunter.
Only through trial and error will you learn how to achieve a smooth finish on your
models.
You will overtime learn all the little steps to apply a nice finish to your models...
You just have to stay focused long enough to read all the info these great modelers
and pilots have to give you.

The complete process is rather long and everyone has there own little ways to do
there process and that is where things get confusing. But, Once you understand that
then you will know your ready to do a complete 20 point finish by yourself

phil myers · « **Reply #13 on:** July 05, 2009, 01:50:42 PM »

My Thanks to Bryan and others for the helpful tips. There's a lot to learn, it seems patience is perhaps one the greatest assets to this fascinating hobby. My problem while building my first (Akromaster) is I wanted it finished yesterday to a brilliant standard and end up having to re-do things! Still, if it was easy everyone in town would be Aeromodellers. Cheers

Phil

phil myers · « **Reply #14 on:** July 05, 2009, 01:59:50 PM »

Forgot to say on last thread I haven't flown this craft yet, a few weeks back I was bench running a max 20 at 13000 revs when my silly finger got chewed up. I dont want to do that EVER EVER again!! Phil

Chris Keller · « **Reply #15 on:** July 05, 2009, 09:02:21 PM »

I am, like yourself, relatively new to building and finishing these planes. The one thing I can add to this thread is that the only difference between a plain old flyable plane and a beautifully finished model (not just paint, but structurally as well) is time. Making things nice is not difficult, it just takes a lot of time and patience. And good sandpaper.

Bill Little · « **Reply #16 on:** August 19, 2009, 08:20:24 AM »

Well, thought I would drag this one back up!

All the answers are good, and it DOES take time (experience), but it is not real difficult to get a *good* looking finish. A *20 pointer* is another thing altogether, and that takes skill, time and plain old luck!

One thing I believe is good in your question is the word *smooth*. A great finish relies on things being smooth! Gloss is developed because the surface is smooth (or *flat). Gloss is a simple result of light reflection. The smoother (or *flatter*) the surface is, the glossier it can be. Think of a mirror's surface. Glass is inherently flat/smooth and when the back surface is coated it will reflect a great image. Let the mirror's surface get dirty (no longer smooth/flat) it no longer gives a great reflection. A model's finish is the same basic premise. get the surface as smooth/flat as possible and it will be very glossy. This takes surface preparation and there is no quick, cheap, easy way to get that. It is a matter of how great a finish the modeler wants and how long they are willing to work on it. Still, it is not a *hard* thing to do, just a time relevant procedure following the steps many have already laid out..

Of course, you can use monocoat and have a gloss finish, but it may not be smooth/flat!

Big Bear

john e. holliday · « **Reply #17 on:** August 19, 2009, 08:59:50 AM »

Yep, any of the iron on mylar coverings will show every little bump on a models surface even the bigger balsa dust bits. Have fun, DOC Holliday

Richard Grogan · « **Reply #18 on:** August 21, 2009, 03:14:30 AM »

All good advice as expected. I might add my big mistake as well as others who have. With all the carefull wood preparation and smooth primed surfaces, dont try to build your finish with the color dope! use just enough colors for even coverage/opacity, and build the depth and shine with clear. Clear is wayy lighter than colors(white is the heaviest opaque), and looks much better than a heavy pile of color dope!For years I made this common mistake, time and time again, wanting an instant finish out of a paint gun, with disapointing results...Keep it light!

phil myers · « **Reply #19 on:** August 21, 2009, 10:35:51 AM »

Thanks to Richard and others who have continued with this thread! I had no idea that was the best way to go, ie building layers with clear dope. I have some 'Gluelines Spectra' clear enamel, which I used on my first (only) build. Its a British made fuel proof enamel. Just wondered if this is a good product or does anyone have other suggestions? BTW, I have used ss hobbies a few times over the last 12 months coz they take paypal payments, so if there are any products they sell which are really good I can get them!
Thankyou to all for the helpful advice I've had on this site, Its made life a lot easier for me!!
Cheers... Phil