Over the years, I got pretty good at using Monokote. I was always amazed at how my father could apply it to all surfaces wings, fuse, etc. He really mastered the technique in his r/c days. I struggled for years and practically gave up on it. He always told me its patience and practice. When your excited about getting out there to show that new model off and fly it , those two words don't equate. Now that I feel I can do a fairly good job with this material I wanted to try some of the transparents. It amazes me to see this on models. I like the fact that you see the skeleton and the perfection of the finish. I guess your getting the best of both worlds. The difficulty is that the construction needs to be at its finest and sanding is extremely important as well. You can't cover imperfections and now your going to look right at them. I always covered my bottom first then wrap up onto leading edge and over trailing edge apporx. 1/8 inch. When I typically cover a wingtip such as a Flite Streak for example, I like to leave material over the tip and onto the top of it. I think this is the true secret to the installation especially when shrinking it afterwards with a heat gun. The streak tip is a radical compound curve going from like 2 1/2 to 3/4 in a very few inches. This leaves a lot of unshrunken material at the leading edge that needs to be heated and tugged extremely for a wrinkle free finish. If using transparents how do you not see the material that wraps onto the top of the wingtip like I stated above. I can't imagine creating the seam in the center of the wingtip allowing for less than a 1/16th of an inch to hold it down. I guess the solution is to make a clean looking wrap thats even . I generally slice and cut as needed to make the material lay as it rounds the curve. I sometimes slice the material 1/4 inch apart and fold each flap over with the iron. I spent a few years braking metal in various shapes and I apply the same principles to the Monokote while trying to cover irregular shapes and surfaces.  Ken