Been in contact with Bill Hummell (thanks for the help Bill) about using Higgins Fadeproof Ink in the clear.  Have any of you folks tried this over a white base (or any other base color)?

James

If you spray yellow tint over white, you will likely have a very bright yellow.   But it would be easier to just spray it yellow in a single application.  So what are you trying to accomplish ?
 
The best thing I have found for tinting clear for a transparent finish is HOK Kandy Koncentrate.  (There are other brands)  About $30/8oz can online, but it only takes about 1/2 oz to tint 20 oz of a 50/50 clear mixture.

James, one thing to keep in mind, what you are contemplating is basically  a Candy type finish. It will require you to be controlled with your spray pattern or you will end up with "tiger stripes" in your color coats. The result of the ink in the clear will result in a translucent finish, like candy, if your overlap is uneven, the excess buildup ( or lack ther of) will create striping in your finish. One other small note, I do not believe that Higgins is UV proof, and as such will be prone to fading, sometimes rapidly, in the sun. The solution is to topcoat with a clear which contains UV protectants, like Urenthane automotive clears. If you want to avoid that, perhaps you would be better served to just spry your white base, then a topcoat of yellow dope.

Allen,

Hmmm, could work. But you will likely not like the final color (or maybe you will). I bought like a gallon of Classic Finishes (Certified) Insignia White a number of years ago (actually I bought 2 quarts then won two quarts a a couple of contests). The stuff is screaming bright white, but it clearly has some blue in it. Looked horrible with any sort of red shifted trim color; red, yellow, orange or any variation. I have since been mixing several other colors with it. A few drops or red or orange or once purple to get the tone to shift around so the trim colors I was using would be tone compatible. I also mixed some white using the Insignia stuff with some a bit of black to tone it down and some silver along with alabaster pearl to get a really sweet white that looked killer on the Cobra I did. White is seldom just white.

Allan,

I was planning to use the ink mixed with clear to save some weight as well as get a nice finish.  The problem is I have some blemishes in the wood I used for the fuse and was thinking of putting a white base underneath

Hi James,

Maybe using a solid color for the fuselage and "wood parts", then using the dope/ink over the open bays on the wing (and stab/elev) for the "died silk look".  I agree with the other guys that it "could be difficult" to get the even coverage that it takes to look good over a base color.

Bill