Sounds about right John. After the sealer coats have been sanded. Two thin coats of butyrate clear should be all you need for a primer while using the spray can stuff.   Bring it to the meeting Monday, May 2. Shoud be gassed or dry by then.  

Hay I could bring the silkspan, dope, thinner, & paint brushes to the meeting and we could stink up the Huntsville Public Library.  Could be the program - How to apply Silkspan. 

All  kidding aside - I'm suspect that it is hard to work the wing tips, as well as some of the other sharp curves, smoothly with silkspan.  Could I not seal these areas with thinned epoxy and feather the silkspan to match.

An all-dope finish is far & away the easiest to repair, and lighter than Rustoleum. And since lighter flies better, it might not crash and need repairs. Since repairs almost always add weight...you see where I'm going, right? 

 Sounds like a good plan, basically what I do but if it was me I'd skip your #4, the sanding sealer step. I'll spare the lengthy details but I would definitely skip the Rustoleum too. I can almost guarantee the day would come when you would regret using it on this plane. I used to use a lot of various rattle can stuff in the past, including Rustoleum, but I finally "grew a pair" and switched to spraying Brodak dope a couple years ago. I wish I would have made the move many years earlier, it's waaaay better.

 I'd stick with your first three steps but then after all your silkspan is on go right to more clear. After my silkspan is on the solid areas I just give things another 3 or 4 coats of 50/50 clear, sanding a bit with some worn 180 or 220 in between coats. If necessary, touch up a few little areas with that same routine if you need to until satisfied. Pay extra attention to where any loose edges on the silkspan might be a problem, bury them in clear and sand them smooth. Repeat as needed.
 
 On the open bay areas I use Polyspan and usually end up with 7 or 8 coats of the 50/50 on it before I'm satisfied. I just spot sand any lint or dust specs and stuff like that out in between coats. Give everything a nice final sanding with 400 and your ready to start spraying your color.

 The plane looks really nice so far, don't get in a hurry, this one deserves a nice dope job.

 Did I say skip the Rustoleum?

 This is the one I use John:     http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-up-air-spray-gun-66871.html

 I've got two of them, one for color work and one I use for clear only. They're cheap and work real well for the "Average Joe". I use mine with a 150psi Craftsman upright compressor with a pressure regulator and I added an inline water trap. I use a 25-28psi setting on the compressor and about a 50/50 dope/thinner mixture with this gun.

 I also use a smaller Badger plastic model type airbrush for small areas and detail work. I have it set up to work with the same compressor and I use a 30psi setting with it.

 I get my Polyspan directly from Tom Morris. There are some other places to get it from too, I don't know them all. It takes a little getting used to but I love it and won't use anything else now. It's a lot stronger than silkspan, not any heavier, and holds up much better over time. You can do a Polyspan search on the forum here and find a bunch of suggestions and tips on using it, many of them from myself.

Good decision RE: polyspan. I still can't get it over wingtips very well so cover the main wing w/polyspan, tips with silkspan. If you have to do that, it's no big deal but polyspan will definitely outlast silkspan down the road. 

I may be wrong in this but my understanding is that Aero Gloss is a very different product than Brodak or Sig dope and may not be compatable. With the work you have already put in I wouldn't chance it. Brodak ships PDQ and can be ordered over the phone or internet. Brodak white really sprays nice and covers well, more pigment than Sig.

 John,

 Polyspan is really great stuff, but if you haven't used it before be very patient until you get the hang of it. I'm not trying to spook you, so don't be, but it is quite a bit different than using silkspan. This is mainly when the shrinking with heat step comes in. Also, make absolutely sure you have the correct side out when you go to put it on. It well be well worth your time and help you a lot to do some searching here on the forum and going over many of the suggestions for working with it. Personally I only use it over the open bay areas. No real reason other than I'm better at doing the solid areas with silkspan.

 Here are a few posts to pick through where I have offered some tips for using Polyspan.  I hope this helps you along...

 http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=19407.0

 http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=20217.0

 http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=19407.0

 Yeah, skip the Aerogloss. It's basically non existent anymore anyway. Build your inventory and get used to using products that you can replace.