Author Topic: Finish of the MC 72 (Read 11429 times)

RC Storick · « **on:** November 25, 2013, 02:25:17 PM »

Today I have painted two coats of 100% clear over the whole airframe. I am sanding with 600 and fixing any dents. Later tonight I might cover with 00 silkspan. It will then get two more coats of clear mixed 50-50 and continue to fix bad spots. I will continue to fill the paper until it shines then proceed to the gold on the wings back masking for the red.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #1 on:** November 25, 2013, 06:40:27 PM »

Nice, a start to finish finishing post. Should be some good stuff coming up here...

RC Storick · « **Reply #2 on:** November 25, 2013, 10:32:55 PM »

Here is where I am at today. I have used 1/2 quart of clear dope. What is allotted for my finish is one quart of UN thinned clear and 1 pint of color. How I do this is with a brand new quart I paint 2 coats full strength over the whole plane sanding in between coats with 600. I then attach paper with 50 - 50 thinned dope. So what I do is use 50% of the can of clear and then add 50% thinner to it. That's all I get so I use it sparingly. That is also used for final clear coats and I will not use it all. I go to bed sanding and wake up sanding. As my friend says you must be a sander of airplanes.

At this point I am still on tract to make my 55-56 ounce weight even though I would have like 52 ounces. I had the best of wood all 4 pound and I used the least amount of it. Along with the least amount of glue I dare get away with. I just don't see how with this type of construction I could make it any lighter. Too much fixed weight.

Bob Hunt · « **Reply #3 on:** November 26, 2013, 09:23:26 AM »

No doubt this is one of the most beautiful stunters ever built! Outstanding woodwork, and I'm sure the paint work will match it. Agree with or disagree with Robert's philosophies on aerodynamics and such, but never doubt that he is one of the finest craftsmen ever in this event.

My hat is off to you, Robert!

Bob Hunt

wwwarbird · « **Reply #4 on:** November 26, 2013, 09:55:02 AM »

Sparky,

So far have you been spraying or brushing the clear on the airframe? If you're spraying do you start spraying right from the bare wood?

At this stage on a model I'm always still brushing, but on the last few I've been thinking about spraying right from the start. Seems like it might be easier to keep things lighter that way...

RC Storick · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2013, 09:57:26 AM »

Brush 2 coats on bare wood 100%, Paper brush 2 coats 50-50 on paper sanding between coats with 600. One sealer coat brushed 60-40% then I start spraying with a airbrush.

Duke.Johnson · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2013, 10:20:29 AM »

It truly is a beautiful plane.

RC Storick · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2013, 10:40:13 AM »

Thank you all. The profile is 100% scale the wing has been moved up and is 4 time thicker than scale. The stab and elevator is 2.5 times larger than scale. This will have a scale like appearance and should be quite appealing.

Key visuals are the V shaped fuse (meaning its wider at the top) and 2.25 spinner. Along with head rest and rudder. The wing tips along with the rest of the fore mention things will be a eye drawing items. Now lets hope the finish comes out as planned.

It didn't take me long to figure out what changes were needed to make a electric airplane fly the way I like them to.. Now if all my speculations come into reality this should be a killer plane.

55chevr · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2013, 11:16:01 AM »

The scale fuselage is a beautifully aesthetic shape and looks fast standing still. The wing dimensions and relocation are a necessity as the aircraft was designed for speed and maneuverability was not a big consideration. The model has a different mission and it gives every appearance that it will accomplish that. The workmanship is an inspiration.

Joe

wwwarbird · « **Reply #9 on:** November 26, 2013, 12:30:22 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on November 26, 2013, 09:57:26 AM

Brush 2 coats on bare wood 100%, Paper brush 2 coats 50-50 on paper sanding between coats with 600. One sealer coat brushed 60-40% then I start spraying with a airbrush.

By "paper" I assume you're talking about all of the silkspan covered areas on the model, and not the polyspan on the wing. Is that correct? If so, that's the same procedure I currently use except that my first two coats on the bare wood are 50:50 instead of 100%.

RC Storick · « **Reply #10 on:** November 26, 2013, 12:32:08 PM »

There is no Polyspan on this model. Its all silkspan 00

wwwarbird · « **Reply #11 on:** November 26, 2013, 02:01:00 PM »

Hmm, no polyspan this time huh? It makes sense now though, I was wondering about going after it with sandpaper with so little clear on it.

Thanks Sparky, great info!

RC Storick · « **Reply #12 on:** November 27, 2013, 11:22:59 AM »

As I said in the past posts the tips will be a focal point of the airplane. There is a lot of sanding to make these look like one piece of the wing. The weight all up as you see it here is 49.6 with no fillets but all clear and covering on it. SO now its time to put it on and sand it off until its ready to paint. I have bought DC 541 Red primer to use where red will be applied. The grey is where the gold will be. I only have approx five ounces to finish this in.

RC Storick · « **Reply #13 on:** November 28, 2013, 10:09:36 AM »

well I am 24 hours into sanding and still sanding.

RC Storick · « **Reply #14 on:** November 28, 2013, 12:24:54 PM »

I hate finishing! It takes twice as much work to finish one as it does to build the D@#^ thing!

55chevr · « **Reply #15 on:** November 28, 2013, 03:45:46 PM »

The devil is in the details. Sanding is where all imperfections are removed. The finish is the sanding. Painting is the easy part. Incidentally, I hate sanding also.

Joe

David Hoover · « **Reply #16 on:** November 28, 2013, 04:02:20 PM »

My wife often reminds me that she can't understand why someone would voluntarily choose a hobby that requires such extensive use of sandpaper. I just tell her it's a zen thing.

RC Storick · « **Reply #17 on:** November 28, 2013, 04:06:50 PM »

I have been sanding all day and I expect there are many more days left of sanding

wwwarbird · « **Reply #18 on:** November 28, 2013, 06:24:27 PM »

As you know Sparky, it will be worth it in the end. It is very hard to stick with it though.

At this stage it seems like you can work for days and not really get anywhere. I'm at the same point on a model right now, been sanding and touching up for a few weeks.
It's also tough to decide when to finally just pull the plug and start painting. At least for me, whenever I first get done with a model there is always something I end up wishing I had spent a little more time on, or had done differently.

Hang in there Sparky, this should be a good one.

RC Storick · « **Reply #19 on:** November 29, 2013, 08:13:41 AM »

Just a quick shot of it in primer. Not much to see yet. Should be a while sanding this one.

DC 540 on the wings and DC 541 on the fuse. After I get it where I think its good I will spray 1 coat of 60-40 clear as a sealer and fix any bad spots. Then it will get a dusting of color very thin.

The weights are around the same as the Viper

Viper
__________________________________

Hardware is 27.10
Airframe before paint is 21.20

1st coat 21.75
covered no dope 22.75
dope and fillets 25.10
spary coats 28.25
finised 29.55

55 ounces all up weight flown

6.8 finish
__________________________________
MC 72 finish

Hardware is 25.7

airframe with LG 22.9
no dope 21.65 no LG
covered and doped 23.4
primer and fillets 25.25

Avaiojet · « **Reply #20 on:** November 29, 2013, 03:42:44 PM »

Well,

So much for putting your flaps and elevators on last.

I always said you can paint a model with that stuff tightly in place. If you know what you are doing.

Lookin good !!

Charles

RC Storick · « **Reply #21 on:** November 29, 2013, 05:44:54 PM »

They are not glued on yet

Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #22 on:** November 30, 2013, 03:46:06 AM »

Been thinking about Gold Leaf instead of Gold plate , to emmulate the copper radiators .

Wondering if its possable to apply with dope on a ribbed tissued structure , it must have a bit of malability , rubbed on .
Problem would be sanding it off if you made a blue .

Looking good , the finish is as good as the preperation .

Keep sanding !

Avaiojet · « **Reply #23 on:** November 30, 2013, 06:02:42 AM »

Quote from: Matt Spencer on November 30, 2013, 03:46:06 AM

Been thinking about Gold Leaf instead of Gold plate , to emmulate the copper radiators .

Wondering if its possable to apply with dope on a ribbed tissued structure , it must have a bit of malability , rubbed on .
Problem would be sanding it off if you made a blue .

Looking good , the finish is as good as the preperation . Keep sanding !

Gold doesn't look like copper. Why don't you just use copper leaf? Goes on the same way and will be flexible.

You need "size" not dope to apply leaf.

Clear to fuel proof when you're done.

Also, the easy way out. I wouldn't be surprised if there was thin copper leaf, the peel n stick type, available at craft stores.

I have peel n stick copper vinyl, but that's 2-3 mils thick. Up close and personal you could feel the edge.

Plan "B" could be a quality copper paint.

Charles

RC Storick · « **Reply #24 on:** November 30, 2013, 03:09:27 PM »

I'm still sanding

Avaiojet · « **Reply #25 on:** November 30, 2013, 04:25:56 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on November 30, 2013, 03:09:27 PM

I'm still sanding

Robert,

You have more time sanding than I have with the cockpit of the mig-3.

600!

When and if I sand, I'll probably use 400 just to speed things up a bit. Tape the ribs for safety, just in case.

I cannot spend that kind of time sanding a model.

Kudos to you!!

Charles

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #26 on:** November 30, 2013, 04:47:57 PM »

an Artist does what an artist needs to in order to create the product he is striving for, if it takes 200 hours sanding,, he sands for 200 hours,,

Sparky,, this is going to be an interesting model,, I look forward to seeing the end result,,

keep on sanding

RC Storick · « **Reply #27 on:** November 30, 2013, 05:02:39 PM »

I can tell you how long I have been sanding. I have Netflix and I am playing SOA 66 episodes three times so far. I just use it as back ground noise. I think I will have to run them one more time to be ready to paint. Each one is 45 minutes. So about 150 hours so far but if it takes 300 so be it.

http://www.ams.vr.it/PIER/AircWalkAround/Museo%20Vignadivalle/Idrocorsa/Macchi_Mc.72/Macchi_Mc.72.htm

john e. holliday · « **Reply #28 on:** November 30, 2013, 05:04:06 PM »

To do a job right it takes time. One of our club members went to another club members place of business, which is restoring cars. Seen the guys wet sanding a car that was in primer. He said they would make a swipe with what was supposed to be sand paper and then wash. Was told they may spend a week or more just sanding the vehicle getting ready for color coat. Sparky, guess the arms are getting in shape.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #29 on:** November 30, 2013, 06:29:50 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on November 30, 2013, 05:04:06 PM

To do a job right it takes time. One of our club members went to another club members place of business, which is restoring cars. Seen the guys wet sanding a car that was in primer. He said they would make a swipe with what was supposed to be sand paper and then wash. Was told they may spend a week or more just sanding the vehicle getting ready for color coat. Sparky, guess the arms are getting in shape.

Having some history with restorations,, I can count the weeks spent sanding,, dry sanding with 180 and 240 to get the basic straight right,, then repriming,, blocking again,, repriming,, blocking again,, every prime/block cycle makes it that much closer to perfect,, for example, I spent the better part of a week getting the bodyline correct on a 56 Thunderbird,, it is such a shallow line that two swipes the wrong direction with 240 would move the line 1.8" away from center,, its a process and a mindset,, you just ignore the clock and do what it takes to make it right,,

RC Storick · « **Reply #30 on:** November 30, 2013, 08:01:44 PM »

Well I am thinking one more day and I will be ready to shoot the base coat of white. Randy had called me the other night and we talked about my red primer. It would my the red paint too dark. SO I sanded most of it off and dusted grey over it. I will shoot a dust coat of white over the whole plane and then the Miss Ashley red will be bright. I might paint a base yellow before gold. The copper come from the lines I will spray in. So no need to suggest decals or vinyl or leaf. I have a plan.

RC Storick · « **Reply #31 on:** November 30, 2013, 08:25:40 PM »

Couple shots of the mess here. I still am on tract for 55-56 OZ

http://www.ams.vr.it/PIER/AircWalkAround/Museo%20Vignadivalle/Idrocorsa/Macchi_Mc.72/Macchi_Mc.72.htm

I am going to try to detail this plane as much as I did my T-bolt. Where I am at now is what makes a exceptional airplane or a mediocre one. It all in the details. When I walk up on a plane I can see who took their time fitting and finishing the fillets and tight spots.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #32 on:** November 30, 2013, 10:41:13 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on November 30, 2013, 08:25:40 PM

Couple shots of the mess here. I still am on tract for 55-56 OZ

If that's a mess, I have an absolute catastrophe on my workbench right now.

RC Storick · « **Reply #33 on:** December 02, 2013, 10:48:51 AM »

After approx 150 hours of sanding with 400-600 I think its ready for the first coat of color. I am sure there will be some touch up in places. So I will fix any bad spots and repaint those. Pictures to follow later.

RC Storick · « **Reply #34 on:** December 02, 2013, 03:24:28 PM »

All of the red is on and I have only a few bad spots to fix. It took six ounces of color to paint this.

The wing tips ,head rest,nose and rudder came out just as planned. They draw your eye to them.

I just wish it was in the 40Ty's instead of the 50Ty's. But that brick in the nose is a real obstacle. Ten ounces fixed weight is tough to beat.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #35 on:** December 02, 2013, 04:39:12 PM »

Beautiful!!!!

Marcus

wwwarbird · « **Reply #36 on:** December 02, 2013, 08:18:19 PM »

Looks great, using the airbrush?

Douglas Ames · « **Reply #37 on:** December 02, 2013, 09:56:09 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on December 02, 2013, 03:24:28 PM

<snip>
All of the red is on and I have only a few bad spots to fix. It took six ounces of color to paint this.

I just wish it was in the 40Ty's instead of the 50Ty's. But that brick in the nose is a real obstacle. Ten ounces fixed weight is tough to beat.

...And no CG shift from a decreasing fuel load. Beautiful work!

Now...How did you imbed a link in your other thread pic to direct here??? (That's slick!)

RC Storick · « **Reply #38 on:** December 02, 2013, 10:19:04 PM »

quote the thread and see how I did it

RC Storick · « **Reply #39 on:** December 02, 2013, 10:40:06 PM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on December 02, 2013, 08:18:19 PM

Looks great, using the airbrush?

Airbrush only from here out.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #40 on:** December 02, 2013, 10:46:25 PM »

I love watching a front row model develop. Even though I'm light years away from achieving it, it's still great inspiration.

Doug Moon · « **Reply #41 on:** December 03, 2013, 07:54:06 AM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on December 02, 2013, 10:40:06 PM

Airbrush only from here out.

What kind of airbrush do yuo use?

RC Storick · « **Reply #42 on:** December 03, 2013, 09:52:43 AM »

Quote from: Doug Moon on December 03, 2013, 07:54:06 AM

What kind of airbrush do yuo use?

Snap-on but I know they are not made by them.

RC Storick · « **Reply #43 on:** December 03, 2013, 09:57:34 PM »

gold wings

Air Ministry . · « **Reply #44 on:** December 04, 2013, 05:36:04 AM »

No more sanding .

Well , just polishing now .

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #45 on:** December 04, 2013, 07:56:28 AM »

Matt,
I'll answer this one Sparky. This is when the nitty gritty details are added. Then the clear, be for any polishing.

As usual Sparky's work is impeccable!

RC Storick · « **Reply #46 on:** December 04, 2013, 08:46:28 AM »

Thanks to the good words. This is where the really fun and hard part starts.

RC Storick · « **Reply #47 on:** December 04, 2013, 11:43:40 AM »

Now is the hard part. All the shading in the radiators.

55chevr · « **Reply #48 on:** December 04, 2013, 12:34:54 PM »

Sparky,

This is some labor ... I love it.

Joe

RC Storick · « **Reply #49 on:** December 04, 2013, 01:22:22 PM »

Gold is the hardest color I have ever painted. I do not recommend it to anyone. I am glad there is details to be added to hide the modeling of the paint. The clear should make this plane really pop after all the details are on it

I painted Diana cream before the gold