Are you sure that the can was totally shaken, and then shaken some more? was it the same areas that were matte?
it could be the solvents soaking into areas of higher primer density allowing some die back in the gloss. It could also be that the primer in those areas was not actually sanded enough and the texture from the primer is showing through, or that there was not enough primer/ base clear to fill the weave of the cloth. Are they random spots,, how big of an area? is it only over open bays, over solid wood?

From what I can tell, it appears that you are not getting enough material on the surface to flow out. In other words it is drying before it can smooth the surface. If i see correctly, it is shiny between the wing and tail on the fuselage? that would be where you are overlapping your pattern and it gets enough material to flow out and gloss.

Just one more thing, when paint first goes on ,it has good coverageand gloss. After it starts to dry it gets funny . Dont know if that makes a difference in replies Thanks John

Just one more thing, when paint first goes on ,it has good coverageand gloss. After it starts to dry it gets funny . Dont know if that makes a difference in replies Thanks John

Everyone seems to have missed or abandoned this post!  That *looks* like a simple case of blushing.  It comes from humidity and all lacquers do it when the humidity is even close to being high..  Duplicolor is a type of lacquer.   It will come out with a clear top coat, or rub it out like a dope finish.  Of course th eclear ill blush too if th ehumidity is high enough.  Over 50% can be too high at times.  I have used GALLONS, by now, of Duplicolor and it is not uncommon.

Plus, some of the Duplicolor colors MUST be clear coated.  There is some type of initial on the label where the color name is that IDs them.  I always clear coat everything, anyway.

Mongo

Everyone seems to have missed or abandoned this post!  That *looks* like a simple case of blushing.  It comes from humidity and all lacquers do it when the humidity is even close to being high..  Duplicolor is a type of lacquer.   It will come out with a clear top coat, or rub it out like a dope finish.  Of course th eclear ill blush too if th ehumidity is high enough.  Over 50% can be too high at times.  I have used GALLONS, by now, of Duplicolor and it is not uncommon.

Plus, some of the Duplicolor colors MUST be clear coated.  There is some type of initial on the label where the color name is that IDs them.  I always clear coat everything, anyway.

Mongo

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Give that man a Ceegar!!!

What is good to use, specifically for rubbing out blushing on either dope, or even LustreKote clear?

Sandpaper.. the old way.. read on... there might be an "easier softer way" to do this..

The dreaded blushing is caused by moisture being trapped under the coat of paint or clear.. what I do is think back to when it first appeared and lightly sand, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol if you are cheap like me or Prepsol.. plain water will clean the surface too if you just want to wipe off the sanding..

Rules for painting... this is here in the Northwest... paint when temps are 70-88... I paint outdoors. No painting in direct sunlight... a little is OK... indoors warm the room up to 68-72... gas heat has moisture in it.. so I keep a window open

Locally I can get hourly humidity reports. When it drops to 50-70 and the air temps are around say 72-80.. and this happens from about 12am to 4 pm... that is my window of painting... indoors I have more flexibility. especially after the house warms up from the outside temperature..  

One of the reasons I have had blushing is trying to put too much paint on too soon... so at best when using dope... only 2 coats a day MAX... one early and one late at the temp/humidity range.. the other reason is failing to let the surface temp of your model "acclimatize".. in other words the air is warm and the surface is cold.. also putting the coats on too heavy with a spray gun .. it will be "cool" and the surface may be hot... using retarder helps with this problem.. I also use a little plasticizer, a Dave Brown product.  

here are some links ...

Here is a great link for general ideas even though it is a motorcycle the basic ideas apply to any lacquer based paints.. http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

Acu-Rite Digital Humidity Monitor ... http://www.natlallergy.com/product.asp?pn=1526&bhcd2=1247593867
I bet there are others on the market..

"The ideal temperature for spraying is about 70°F. Special thinners and reducers can speed up or retard drying time; use slower thinners in hotter temperatures, faster thinners in colder temperatures. Humidity is also a factor, especially with lacquer. High humidity (moisture) in the air supply can be trapped in rapidly drying paint, causing a "blushing" surface that appears chalky or dull. Spray in the lowest possible humidity."
http://www.scottgrundfor.com/ideas/paint3.html

Here's another product that appears to have promise.. though I haven't tried it.. if this stuff works as advertised it is a God Send for sure.. here is one guys thoughts after using it.. "This stuff is magic in a can. It removes the blush immediately. You just fog it on and blush is gone. Also used to help blend in repair areas. Make sure you allow enough time for the surface to dry. It will remain wet longer than an application of clear."

This is mainly a wood worker product but I suspect it may be something others might have tried.. I doubt it will work on Lustercote..
Blush Eraser, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17653&cookietest=1

Jim