There is a lot of info posted on these paints, but if your "search" is as difficult as mine, it may take a while to find your answer. I use Dupli-Color from start to finish, but the final clear has to be another product. Dupli-Color lacquer is not fuel proof. I seal the balsa by any of the many options available, then use Dupli-Color High Build primer. Very good product. Depending on my base color I may or may not shoot a light coat of their white primer over the gray. Then color and final clear. I use 3 part auto clear, but may change to something else for my next project.
 The lacquer is easy to use and easy to repair. It can be wet sanded and touched up fairly easily. I've had no problem with lifting if I use low heat to remove the tape. Spray cans have excellent tips and spray patterns, but not a lot of paint. I use the pre-mixed pint (quart?) cans. Shoots very well right out of the can. The attached Nobler was 100% Dupli-Color with auto clear. I had to tear into the aft fuselage to repair the tail wheel bulkhead. Easy to re-paint.

I was hesitant to post here because of the size restrictions but here goes. This is my latest custom bike which I designed and painted. It is all Duplicolor from the local Oreilly's.

 Bill, did I unnerstan that you used dope over their enamel?  And no lifting?  I am shooting their enamel right now and have used Dupli color wheel clear over it with out problems.

   Please keep me updated on their product..          Thanks to everyone that responded

I love the DC acrylic lacquer. It's not fuel proof like Jim said above about the acrylic enamel, but it's said to be lighter. And it plays perfectly well with butyrate clear. And a great advantage is that fuelproof Lustrekote clear is also fine, either right on top of the DC color or on top of the butyrate. Even without having to dust it on like you do with enamel. So I sprayed Lkote on the whole nose, forward of the wing where fuel mostly gets, and that was even after I had given it a few coats of butyrate, so that's really fuelproof. The DC added very little weight and dries hard as a rock as soon as it hits the plane. It's very close to dope, but without the blushing risk as far as I can tell I was lucky, we had 100+ degrees with 30-40% humidity for the two weeks I was painting. On my test board, the plain DC took the Lkote in a rudely thick pass with no reaction. It does melt it, but it hardens back in 10 minutes without any distortion. Mistakes sand back off easily in the same day. I'm sold on it. I used the NAPA DC540 primer which is also made by DC, but I thinmk their Duplicolor labeled gray primer is probably fine too. It's just that the DC540 fills so well and sands so easily, I like it a lot too.

Take a look at my Twister thread to see my first try with DC paints:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/yet-another-twister-my-builtrightflyright-version-of-the-f-twister/

If I build any 1/2A planes I think I'll try the Enamel. Also the nozzles are adjustable and shoot a knife edge triangle fro, 8-10 inches which can be rotated to help hold the can at a convenient angle. very little overspray compared to other rattlecans. I think it's all available in cans too.
Rusty