Your right Ty.

 I only started using the stuff here and there a year or so ago, but I really like it for certain applications. I really like the way it fills the grain too. If one is looking for strength over a larger area I'd figure that it should be overlapped though. After applying it I'll usually give it at least a couple of sloppy wet coats of 50/50, letting it dry completely in between before I even touch it with sandpaper. Then get into it real good with the sandpaper, knocking the seam completely down. Add some more clear and sand with some finer paper and you should be darn close at that point. Personally, I like the way it sands better than medium silkspan.

 10-4 Ty.

Remember the butcher with paper wrapping for fresh meats back in the day?   I think the same procedure can be used.  Just lay a straight edge down and tear instead of cutting.

I usually block sand the overlapped area's with 800 grit. or 400 if I really want to cut into it fast.

I use carbon fiber, the fine stuff (mat), to cover my fuselages and most wood on my "super dooper" stunters. Well it may make them strong or not, sure does hide the wood grain, but it sure as heck makes for a lot, a very lot, of sanding.

  I think you waited too long to sand it. I have done it after a first coat or two, and it cuts down very easily. Almost too easily. If you get 5-6 coats of dope into it, then, you have a problem.

     Brett

I would gather that covering with CF you would have to use the same technique as covering with film to get the seams in just the right spots. A real pre planning chore. A tip that works with film. If you are going to have a seam that will be blatantly obvious at least make sure that it will fall where a change in color will also occur. Or where you plan on add ing a stripe. These areas will help hide the underlying seam.

  No, you knock down the seams before it gets unsandable, then it's just like tissue. It's very easy stuff to work with, there are just a few tricks that you have to know (just like everything else).

   And, in any case, everything is sandable. I guarantee that you can knock the seams down with 20 coats of dope on it if you use 150 grit paper. It's just a matter of how big a risk you want to take.

    Brett

Why would you not want to plan where seams are going to fall?