If the  P-40 is like all the other Brodak ARF/ARC's I've seen, those aren't decals, but rather are self-adhesive vinyl. This stuff is pretty much fuel-proof on its own, unless you're planning to pour raw fuel onto them. A thin coat of epoxy around the edges of each sticker will solve that problem.

       Mike, I've tried a few different methods for the water transfer decals. The first method I tried some years ago was to use a small artist brush and some polyurethane. The problem with this is the urethane yellows with age and sunlight leaving a amber like appearance. I used Minwax poly in a can although I'm sure the spray version works equally as well. Its just harder to mask off when spraying. I've found this to stick pretty well to the surrounding Monokote as well. I then started to do seal just the edges and not the entire decal. To do this I was using Nelson water based polyurethane clear. The Nelson products are not designed for Monokote ,but I've used it with pretty good success. I clean the area first with denatured alcohol. Nelson paints have a water like consistency so you have to try and have the area to be painted pretty level for a few minutes. Then there is another method I've tried and thats to dust light coats of butyrate dope on them. This works pretty well assuming you don't go overboard with the thinner or retarder. I've tried brushing it on and it crazes the decal. On my models with the edges just sealed, I've never had my decal dissolve from fuel residue. I'm pretty aggressive when its clean up time as well with the ammonia and glass cleaners. Ken

I can tell you they peel off pretty easily unless they are sealed. I tried painting a bit of catalysed polyurethane around the edges and they curled up.Not fun.

Thanks, Steve.  That sounds like good information.

Can you cover them with clear covering ?

Steve