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Author Topic: covering  (Read 939 times)

Offline DanielGelinas

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covering
« on: May 08, 2011, 08:47:05 AM »
 Hello all,

Just finished building my super clown. I now need advice to prepare for paint.

I would like to cover the wings with silk and the fuselage and elevator, rudder, flaps with medium silkspan.

Two three coats of 50% clear on all the plane. Then I cover the flaps, fuselage and elevator, rudder with silkspan.

Then I cover the wings with silk.

Two more coats of 50% clear with sanding in between. THen  I start colors.

Is that how I should do it?

I'm looking for a solid plane, certainly NOT a show stopper. I KNOW this plane is going to crash often so I want to minimise my time finishing. However, I think the silkspan will make it a little more solid?


Thanks for your advice H^^ H^^

-Danny

Offline Clint Ormosen

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Re: covering
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2011, 11:58:30 AM »
Yes, silkspan on the solid surfaces is a good idea. But if you already know you'll be crashing a lot, consider an iron on film for the open areas. Much easier to repair.
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larry borden

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Re: covering
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2011, 12:38:26 PM »
I'm still old skool, I use silk and dope. Clint has the right idea, iron covering is a lot easier to repair. You might want to think about using iron on and then on your next build do the silk and dope thing. Any thing I can do to help, please feel free to ask.

Offline Michael Massey

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Re: covering
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2011, 01:42:18 PM »
Silk is great and makes a very strong wing.  It is, however, a bear to work with.  I have covered about 5 planes with silk and am still in a steep learning curve.  What I have learned thus far is this:
     Have several coats, or  more, of dope on the wing before covering.
     Rinse the silk in case there is sizing on it that would prevent shrinking.
     Rinse in cold water so as not to shrink the silk.
     Put the silk on wet, pull it tight, tack it down with thinner or well thinned dope.
     Put the silk on with the grain running wing tip to wing tip.  (I am still working on this and trying to be able to identify the grain     
       by looking at it.  One of the forum posts suggested the grain runs parallel to the stitching on the edges of the bolt or silk piece.)
     Before the dope drys, spray it with water again (unless it is still very wet) and try to pull it tighter.
     Now it will likely dry tight.  Unfortunately, it will sag and wrinkle with the very first coat of dope.  I am still experimenting with the
      first few coats being thin, or thick.  Still not sure.  But use a tautening dope.
     To this point, I have been adding 8 to 10 coats to get good shrinkage.  That adds a lot of weight.

Anyone who can add their experiences with silk to what I have just put down, please do.  As I said, I too am in a steep "silk" learning curve.
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Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: covering
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2011, 04:16:06 PM »
Thanks for the info.

Michael, thanks for the tips. I have always covered my planes with silkspan in the past, except for one plane which was monocote.

I thought silk would be a little stronger than silkspan in a crash or hard landing.

I'm still going to use silk... S?P...just to get an idea of how it works out in the end.

I'm sure your tips will be helpful Michael.

Thanks H^^ H^^

-Danny

Offline Clint Ormosen

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Re: covering
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2011, 04:32:42 PM »
I thought silk would be a little stronger than silkspan in a crash or hard landing.

I'm still going to use silk... S?P...just to get an idea of how it works out in the end.
-Danny

Silk will be a lot stronger that silkspan. But it's such a pita to work with that I don't bother anymore. Polyspan has near the same strength as silk and finishes much easier and lighter. Silk will shrink so much that wing warps are common. I would highly advise against using it on such a light structure like the Clown, but hey, it's your plane.
-Clint-

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Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: covering
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2011, 05:48:51 PM »
Hi Clint,

I read on this forum that silk doesn't tighten as well as silkspan. I fact, some people have experienced sags after a few coats of clear or color.

Now your telling me silk shrinks so much it will make my wing warp??

I'm confused HB~> HB~>

I certainly don't want to warp the wing.

Is saran wrap fuel proof?  LL~ LL~

Seriously, I just want to go out flying my plane ASAP. Unfortunately, I have no monokote nor an iron or heat blower.

-Danny

larry borden

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Re: covering
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2011, 06:05:30 PM »
OK, I'm a silk junkie, really like using it. I did a how to on the Ringmaster forum.
I put several coats of thinned Nitrate dope. After sanding the wing with 320 grit sand paper, I apply the silk dry, using thinned nitrate dope. I pull the silk as tight as I can and after the dope has dried, I use a spray bottle to wet the silk. I pull out any wrinkles that may have developed at this time.
Once the silk drys, I start applying thinned nitrate dope to seal the silk, It takes several coats to get the silk sealed. After the silk is sealed to my satisfaction, I apply a couple of coats of thinned butyrate to finish the sealing/tightening process.
I cover top and bottom of a wing panel at the same time and never start the sealing process until all the silk has been applied. This way I haven't had any trouble with warping.

Offline DanielGelinas

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Re: covering
« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2011, 06:10:10 PM »
Thanks Larry, I'll check your how to on the ringmaster forum
-Danny H^^ H^^

Offline Clint Ormosen

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Re: covering
« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2011, 10:32:36 PM »
Hi Clint,

I read on this forum that silk doesn't tighten as well as silkspan. I fact, some people have experienced sags after a few coats of clear or color.

Now your telling me silk shrinks so much it will make my wing warp??

Danny

That's my experience.
-Clint-

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Offline Michael Massey

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Re: covering
« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2011, 10:37:03 PM »
Daniel, the silk shrinkage is an issue.  I have read on these forums that the silk shrinks only once.  After that, it is the tautening dope that shrinks.  I don't know the answer but what I have read seems to make sense because of the number coats of tautening dope that I have had to use to get everything tight.  I do suspect part of my problem was not being consistent in applying the "grain" in the right direction as well.

However, when the silk gets nice and tight, it is strong and can warp the wing.  I have had that happen.  My experience is that it tended to warp the ends of the wings, twisting them up, or down.  When that has happened (and has not happened in every case) I clamp the wing where I want it and then heat wet towels in the microwave.  I then put the towels on the wing until they cool down.  I usually leave the wing clamped overnight just to make sure it dries out.  I do this even after the final paint job and have never experienced a problem.  To date, I have not had a wing go back to the warp.

Just because I don't have a lot of experience heating towels in the microwave, I heat them in 2 minute intervals, virtually one interval after another.  I usually heat them for only 6 minutes total.  I wet the towels "generously" and roll them up.  I put them in a large plastic bowl so I can carry the bowl to the garage without burning myself.  When you unroll the towels, they will be HOT.  Be careful.  I also drop a poly sheet over the towels after putting them on the wing, simply to hold the hot moist air onto the wing a little longer.
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