Having gone through the job of painting a plane, the final challenge is the two-part epoxy clear coat.  If bungled, all is lost.
I start out by clearing the shop, then clear coat the plane and leave the basement for the balance of the shift.
I mixed-up four tea spoons of Klass Kote just be on the safe side.  2.3 would have worked, but you sure can't stand to come up short.
Klass Kote keeps the paint on the plane and it doesn't cost me anything since I bought it in quarts at Toledo for an old scale project and this was left over.

I always let paint dry with the plane nose-up, so if it runs or drips it will go to the TE where it is easily removed.

Seriously, though...nice work!

Steve

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Is that system one that can be wet sanded and ultimately buffed out?

Paul,
Beautiful job. Could you detail the base and color paints you used? How did you apply them and the clear Klass Kote?

Best,   DennisT

Paul,
Beautiful job. Could you detail the base and color paints you used? How did you apply them and the clear Klass Kote?

Best,   DennisT

OK.

First I put Randolph dope on the wing with a brush.  I get at least some clear of the ribs to protect against the water I use to apply the silk. 
I sand the structure very smooth so the silk does not snag.
I cover in four separate parts: bottom, top, right and left.  Trying to use one or two pieces is nothing but trouble and wrinkles.
I spray the silk lightly with water and work of the wrinkles.  It's a matter if technique get the wrinkles out without pulling too hard and pulling in a warp.
At first I just dope the outline for two coats.  When the dope & water have dried I begin piling on the clear dope.  It takes me a minimum of six coats of clear.  Maybe more if it looks like it needs more.

The body is done like the wing before assembly.  It's a lot easier and better to mask and paint the body before final assembly.  Like the wing, the body gets a minimum of six coats of Randolph/Brodak clear.  Note: if you go to Randolph's web site they list Brodak as a dealer.  I mask the body and trim with Randolph colors using an air brush.   After very carefully mixing the quart of color I pour about four ounces into a GLASS thinning jar.  The dope needs to be very thin to go through my air brush.  I put about an ounce of thinned dope in the air brush jar and try to spray a sample.  It's often still too thick so I thin it some more.  It seems so watery-thin that it won't cover, but it does. 

Then I clear the spray head in a shot glass with lacquer thinner and dump the tinted thinner back into the thinning jar.  Zero waste!

When the wing and body are done I assemble them with 30-minute epoxy in several small applications, using gravity and a heat gun to get the epoxyinto every void.

I clear coat the body, tail and about two inches of the wing with Klass Kote used full strength.  I don't dare spray two-part epoxy.  Also, I'm afraid that thinner in the epoxy would attack the colors when I brush it on.  I use throw away brushes for the clear coat.  I doubt that I could clean the brush well enough to use it again and if I did the thinner would cost more than a new brush.

When I mix the Klass Kote I use two throw away plastic spoons for the parts A & B.  Using three spoons of each part for a plane this size means that a quart of each will last me forever.

This is not intended to be a 20-point front row PAMPA winner.  It's just for painting a plane to fly around and have it look good pretty good compared to other sport planes.

I read the following at KlassKote. I can see spraying and cleaning will be much like cleaning after dope (make it spotless). Can anyone confirm the long pot time? I take "pot time" to mean this is the mix and use period:

https://www.klasskote.com/faq#Q18
What is the useful pot life (after Parts A & B are mixed) of Klass Kote Epoxy Paint?
Once mixed, this two-component epoxy paint system stays useful (pot life) for several hours only - up to 6-8 hours, all remaining [mixed] paint will harden and be unusable several hours later.

Brett,
When you brush on the base and color do you need to block sand it flat before the clear? I assume for trim you back mask to minimize weight, do you need to remove tape before it cures out?

Best,   DennisT

I haven't seen it mentioned yet in this thread, but you'll want to thin (reduce) this stuff if you want a light finish.  It's pretty easy to pork up a plane with this paint if over applied, or at full strength. 
Brett posted a great tutorial on mixing KlassKote: https://stunthanger.com/smf/paint-and-finishing/klass-kote-airbrush-notes/