Randy or Mark,
You guys have used a lot of different paint combinations. Will the Auto Air Colors water based colors stick to a Brodak or Sig clear based model?
I have to tissue cover my classic and Old time models and I'm familiar with using the Brodak or Sig clear dopes to cover the models, but I've gotten used to using the water based colors on my composite models and I like the fact that the water based stuff is virtually odor free and non toxic.
So, can I mix the two?

     Thanks, Arch

Bob,
I've used Nelson's paint for several years now and it will stick to nitrate dope, not butyrate.  I don't know if it will stick to the epoxy; it's a breed of it's own.  But...Nelson's primer is excellant and I would suggest shooting a light coat of the primer to the epoxy first.  It's very easy to sand and will ensure that the paint will stick.  I've had a lot of problems with Nelson's peeling off of just about everything except his primer.  Hate to see you struggle with T-Rex.

Paul

Bob & Paul,
I don't have any experience with Nelson paints. I've heard of some people using it and it has mixed reactions. One thing that Nelson has that Auti  Air Colors doesn't have is clear. I spoke with one of the factory reps over a year ago and he told me then that they were working on a clear coat. I'd rather use a water based product than th urethane clear, for safety reasons. Maybe I'll try too contact them again, see if they've made any progress.

    Auto Air Colors sells a mid-coat sealer for this purpose.  It works well and it is OK to put dope over it. If you go to their web site you will find a lot of information.
    Their products are pretty easy to use as long as you stick with their products for clean up.  My biggest problem was when changing from one color to the next.  The stuff flashes so fast that it will contaminate follow-up colors from particles inside the airbrush.  They tell you to use cleaner for this purpose, and it works OK but it still leaves a little behind.  I found that complete cleaning between colors was necessary. 
     You can clear coat with dope like normal or use two-part polyurethane.  The polyurethane is better for compatibility and is way faster, but is heavy.  In any case be very careful when wet sanding; if you go through the clear the colors are dissolved by the water!
     I might try again later but for now I'm sticking to dope.

Mike   

Arch,

I agree with you regarding water based paint for several reasons.  One big plus is that the water based clear will not yellow over time.  I've never found a polyurethane that didn't yellow over a white base.  Two or three part auto clears are good, but expensive, dangerous to the lungs, and hard to clean up.  Nelson's paints are water based as are Warbird Colors.  Their clears will never yellow.  But...I've never tried to color sand and polish water based clear.  I've heard it doesn't work well.  But for sport flying, I like the water based products.

Paul

Can't imagine a problem with Nelson clear going over another water based product, would sure think they are compatible. Heck might be the same thing just packaged under different names.. Just a WAG.

I did talk to Nelson this morning, he said the problem with dope is just what Bruce said, adhesion issues that has something to do with the makeup of lacquer. Same reason not to shoot it over a lacquer based primer.

Good news is I will be able to shoot it directly over Z Poxy finish resin without needing the primer. He suggested next time I just use Nelson paint (straight from the bottle) to lay the glass down. Not sure I can get my mind around that idea but might try it on a test piece.