Z-poxy finishing resin works great. I'd brush a coat on, lay the glass on, rub the glass into the resin and add resin as needed to saturate it. Use TP to soak up excess resin as needed, so you have a "dry" look. Roll the TP across the surface, if it's flat enough. Tear off the saturated TP and dispose of it in the garbage.
The good thing about epoxy is that the shelf life is probably 10x as long as polyester, or more. You can thin epoxy with the provider's recommended thinner, or you can use denatured alcohol. Some other things will also work (dope thinner, lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.), but will tend to make the epoxy brittle, which isn't usually a good thing. I don't recall polyester resin to be totally fuelproof, and I recall having some dope adhesion problems.
FWIW, I think the light glass (I've bought and used .6 oz, imported from Germany, but usual stuff here is 3/4 oz/sq. yard) is a nice base for the finish, maybe of some benefit for minor stress areas, but about useless for the nose of a stunter, for example. To strengthen and stiffen the nose, look at 2 oz fiberglass with epoxy matrix. No point to use fiberglass or CF mat with clear dope, IMO. You need to use a resin that will prevent the glass or carbon fibers from cutting eachother. Dope won't do that. I'd be more likely to use Minwax Polycrylic, if not epoxy. But I'd use 'poxy because it's fuelproof, while Polycrylic is not at all.
Steve