Has anyone ever tried this? Cover a wing with silkspan, one coat of clear dope, then cover with silk.  That way you get the strength of silk, but you don't get the drip thru problems with the silk. The reason I'm asking is I covered 2 wings with silk, one with cap strips looks good with the exception that the silk is stuck down slightly along the inside edge of the wing tips, probably due to slightly sagging there at the edge. The other without cap strips, the silk is stuck down very slightly all around the top edge of the ribs and stringers. It doesn't look real bad, it just looks like the silk is extremely tight, when it's not. Seems like I never had these problems years ago (40) when I was a teen and built planes. I'm covering with 8 mome Chinese silk, and Sig taughtening dope thinned 50%, and I tried putting it on as light as I could. I was wondering if Japanese silk does the same thing, but it doesn't look like Sig is getting any more Jap silk.

Jerry,
         I use the very thin mylar that the freeflight boys use. I stick this on using much diluted impact adhesive. I then shrink the mylar using a hot air blow gun. Don't overdo this otherwise you will get holes appearing, guess how I know! Just a gentle shrinking is all that is required. Then cover with favourite silk and spray on diluted dope, a couple of coats is all I use. The resulting covering is lighter than using silk and dope (no blow through) and the mylar seals any air leaking through the silk. Its very tough and very light. I have added pigment to the thinned dope to get colouring, but don't ask what the pigment colours are. I hoarded them from a past life in lighting (Coloured laquer for PAR 64 lamps). OK its not concourse and needs fuel proofing, but its good for a light plane!

Regards,

Andrew.

Right now I'm painting (or trying to), an RSM Thunderbird. It's like a comedy of errors...one thing after another...some things I've learned

1. Do almost ALL sanding, fillercoating,etc. of separate parts, fin, rudder,stab, flaps, fuselage, BEFORE assembling
2. DON'T try to sand silk thats over an open bay
3. DON'T wet sand a wood airplane, even if it has 6 coats of clear and 2 coats of color
4. I must be going blind...I thought it was close to ready for paint...not even close...
I'm sure I'll learn a lot more before this thing gets painted, (if it ever does)
I've now broken the fin and rudder off 4 times!
Every time I sand on this plane I either put another hole in it, break something, or in general create more work to do.

It appears where the edges of the fuselage top planking meets the sides is now raised. Maybe the moisture got thru, but with 6 coats of clear I thought it would be sealed.

Jerry, the latest stunter that I'm finishing, has been a complete disaster At one point the masking tape I used pulled everything off down to the bare balsa!! I've had fillets cracking, and various other problems, its nearly been thrown in the bin on three occasions!
I think everything is sealed and stable at the moment, so I might paint it over the Xmas holiday? I'll send photos when its done. It seems to be getting heavier every time I look at it!

Cheers     Neville

I thin most Sig colors for brushing at 60 to 65%. Takes several coats, but leaves no brush marks to speak of. I also brush on the final clear coats thinned the same.

Right now I'm painting (or trying to), an RSM Thunderbird. It's like a comedy of errors...one thing after another...some things I've learned

3. DON'T wet sand a wood airplane, even if it has 6 coats of clear and 2 coats of color

I got this tip from Windy several years ago and have mostly used it since. Wet sand using a degreaser prep wash and not water. I use Napa #6384. Get it at the NAPA auto store. Put in spray bottle and use as you would water, but you don't have to use very much. Just spray small amount on surface, sand, then wipe up. Only need to wear gloves and do in a ventilated area. But there is no chance of wood swell and is very easy to keep up with sanding progress.  Jim