Been searching for but can't seem to find the Allen Brickhaus finishing method I keep hearing about, can anybody search better than me?

Thanks,
MM

That returned one result which was this thread.


MM

PER ALAN:

>So many people have found that dope is NOT the best underbase
>for Rustoleum or X-O-Rust. The constant gassing off of the
>dope softens the upper paint and that is why it stinks for
>some people for a long time.
>
>I never use dope for the base.
>
>Use Z-Poxy or Polycrylic as the base.
>
>Use white water based spackling compound thinned to the
>consistency of pancake batter over the base.
>
>Sand and add fillets of an epoxy based material.
>
>Fillets do not lift with this method.
>
>You can paint in high humidity day-time hours.
>
>Mask off the film you placed on all flying surfaces.
>
>Spray with Rustoleum or X-O-Rust white metal primer.
>
>Fill any dings with full strength spackling compound.
>
>Resand and reprimer only were needed.
>
>Remask film and paint line.
>
>Spray your final choice of Rustoleum or X-O-Rust on the
>fuse/rudder.
>
>All metallics and the clear are not fuel proof.
>
>Check out Michael Griffin's new F-94C. Used this method.

RUSTOLEUM MUST BE REPAINTED WITHIN 10 MINUTES OR AFTER 24 HOURS. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RESPRAY BETWEEN THOSE TIMES, THE PAINT WILL ORANGE PEEL BADLY.
>
>




Allen Brickhaus

Thanks John, found this too. http://www.tulsacl.com/Finishing.html

I guess the spackling compound is used to fill and level? What else can you paint over spackling compound? I see stuff that's pink but turns white is that water based or is anything that doesn't say vinyl water based?


MM

I don't want to be disrespectful to the memory of Allen Brickhaus but he never claimed to have invented the water based finish that he used. Rustoleum finishes were used in the early 80's for sure in R/C but was generally used for sport purpose models.
Not a good idea to put Rustoleum over dope ever unless you have a primer base over the dope. Dope can prevent the Rustoleum from ever completely drying for an incredibly long time ( like perhaps forever) if you do not use primer.
I use 1/2 oz cloth applied with water base urethane. Two coats of primer well sanded and you are ready for paint. You can actually have a glass like finish for awhile but Rustoleum while fuel proof will fade or dull unless you treat it as well as you do a good dope finish. Clean and polish regularly.

Dennis

I would like to read the Flying Models article sometime, as I'm sure Allen did a nice job explaining his full process.   
These links from the other forum give a good glimpse of his methods.

Here is the build of the Olympus which details Allen's finishing process.
  - http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=295774&sub_topic_id=295846&mesg_id=&page=
  - http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=322771&mesg_id=322771&listing_type=search

This link shows Allen's paint process on a very nice Oriental :
  - http://clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=370907&mesg_id=370907&page=17&topic_page=1

Here it is.

I will use MinWax Polycrylic clear and 1/2 ounce fiberglass cloth for a base coat. More Polycrylic and Randy Smith's zinc sterate filler will fill more of the base. Then I will use a light weight epoxy mixture for the fillets. Then I will add a brushed on coat of water based spackling thinned with water to the consistency of pancake batter. This will be sanded off and a light spray coat of X-O-Rust white metal primer will be sprayed on. This will be sanded and a one last coat of the same primer. Then I will mask off the final fuselage and spray a layer of the paint I am going to use.

MM