Author Topic: 1/2a Covering Alternatives? (Read 4708 times)

Chancey Chorney · « **on:** November 05, 2015, 07:56:05 PM »

Hi. I have a little question regarding the covering of 1/2a models. What are my options? Locally, nobody has or sells silkspan. So, I looked into silk. Called around and nobody anywhere I called knew anything about 5mm (momme) silk. Only one shop had any and it did appear thin like it should, but no markings, other than 'Silk, White'. Then I saw the price. $49.50 per yard which was only approximately 36" wide. So, is there any other alternative that would work that anyone has used? Worst case scenario, I will have to order silkspan online, but would like to find something locally. Thank you.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #1 on:** November 05, 2015, 08:41:07 PM »

Are you opposed to iron on coverings for your wings?
If not, my favorites for ultra light finishing in 1/2A models is... Listed in order
Topflite econokote. It's super easy to use. Low pulling strength, so it's tiny wing friendly.
Coverite microlite.. Less easy to use, doesn't conform to tight curves as well. Low pulling strength, shrinks well. Very very lite.
Coverite CoverLite. Synthetic iron on tissue. Pre colored. Not too difficult to use. Maybe takes a little more practise, but looks exceptional.

These are my opinions based on my excessive addiction to building 1/2A models! Lol

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #2 on:** November 05, 2015, 08:57:42 PM »

Honestly, not against it, I would just like to do things the right way, I mean old way. I had just recently finished my first model using dope and am now enjoying it. I just bought a quart of Randolph dope and I am still unsure of which model is next in queue. A long time started Banshee, that needs wing repairs before finishing, and a fuselage ready for finishing. Or, I had received a set of plans for the 'Pinto' that I really like and had actually bought a new unrun engine for earlier this year from a great member here. But, either way, I believe the Banshee will have a plastic covered wing with a painted/doped fuselage. I thank you for your time and suggestions. I will take a peek around and see what is available locally here. Thank you.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #3 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:04:02 PM »

Pm me your address. I got a sheet or two of the stuff that came in sig kits. I'll never use it

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 06, 2015, 05:13:58 AM »

For silk I buy from Dharma. The is a Thai silk web site also but I have not bought there

http://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/silk/silk-habotai-fabrics.html?lnav=fabric_silk.html

They have 5mm and 8mm at very reasonable prices like Habotai white china silk 5 mm @ 36 wide for $3.15 per yard

I got some 8mm colored and it looks perfect for a few projects but for the 1/2a you probably want to stick with 5 mm and it only comes white

They also "have how to" section for dying silk and they sell the dyes

Ken Burdick · « **Reply #5 on:** November 06, 2015, 09:14:10 AM »

The Dharma dye works well. You really need to beware though as most of us would be doing it in the kitchen. One grain of the powder, or one drop of the dye....will cover the earth. It makes for some very pretty colors but will shrink the silk so don't expect it to act the same as un dyed.

Tie-dyed Ken

Dane Martin · « **Reply #6 on:** December 02, 2015, 09:13:06 PM »

Quote from: Dane Martin on November 05, 2015, 08:41:07 PM

Are you opposed to iron on coverings for your wings?
If not, my favorites for ultra light finishing in 1/2A models is... Listed in order
Topflite econokote. It's super easy to use. Low pulling strength, so it's tiny wing friendly.
Coverite microlite.. Less easy to use, doesn't conform to tight curves as well. Low pulling strength, shrinks well. Very very lite.
Coverite CoverLite. Synthetic iron on tissue. Pre colored. Not too difficult to use. Maybe takes a little more practise, but looks exceptional.

These are my opinions based on my excessive addiction to building 1/2A models! Lol

I just wanted to add another 1/2A iron on medium i like. I bought some ultracover light transparent white. It's amazing, and seems to be easier to use than microlite. Easier in that it does not stick to itself so voraciously. The microlite, i think, does compound curves a little nicer. But this stuff is really cool. Give it a try on your next 1/2A wings

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2015, 07:45:25 AM »

Have tried most of them, my "Go To" iron on covering for 1/2A's is, for now, Ultracote Lite ( until I try L. Rengers approach w/SLC and Polyspan) on my next 1/2A build). Wing tips are not difficult once used to it.
See the SH Photo Gallery/district 5, row 16 -my 1/2A P'finder and Cardinal (blue), and row 19 - my 1/2A P'finder and Ward Van Duzer's Stunt wing. Next to last row - my 1/2A Barecat , also Ultracote Lite.

Roger V.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #8 on:** December 03, 2015, 10:20:39 AM »

Absolutely. I don't mean at all to say wing tips are difficult with the ultracote lite. They are easy to do, the shrink rate is excellent and the seams are amazing. Because the film is so thin, it's very easy to hide overlap seams. I think this will be my new 1/2A choice also.
Thanks Roger

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #9 on:** December 04, 2015, 06:14:42 PM »

For 1/2a's, you might try single layer or double layers of "Domestic" tissue, AKA wrapping tissue from the arts & crafts store (if there is one). The FF guys use it sometimes. Generally, the dyes fade quickly in bright sun, but they do have plain white and you can color it with dope tinted with Acrylic Toner from the art supply store, ink, a bit of colored dope, etc. How big a town are you in, and what sort of stores? Auto paint? Dupli-Color....mix it in with your dope. Use it instead of dope. Art store? Stationary store? Ink...red, blue, black, maybe others?

Truthfully, I'd get some Polyspan from Stunthanger Hobby. I doubt it would cause a problem at Canadian Customs. Somebody said that RSM sells Polyspan...owner Eric Rule is one of you norfer guys, so he would likely have a way to get it to you quickly...except that he's on vacation.

Steve

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #10 on:** December 08, 2015, 04:03:03 PM »

I was actually thinking of trying tissue, but I was generously gifted a couple sheets of silkspan to use and will be good for the next few models. I have also dabbled in 100% polyester with Minwax with good results on a small test piece. I am in a small town outside the city, but travel to work in the city daily. Also as for auto paint and the like, I am a collision repair technician and have connections. I will definitely try some auto paint mixed in on my next build for sure. I will just have to wait till the white stuff disappears and I can paint outside, Thanks for the tips.

Target · « **Reply #11 on:** December 08, 2015, 04:58:39 PM »

Dane-

No black in UltraCote Lite, right??
I will need something for my RSM Mini Stuka eventually.
Mini Me will be sporting an .061 in the nose, and as such will need to be glo-fuel proof.

I'm wondering about the polyspan with SLC over it, but that means twice the covering job....

Regards,
Chris.
PS. I heard you ended up not making it to the Rich Lopez memorial last weekend. I was bummed not to meet you Friday. I sulked all the while pulling on my Banshee and Oriental!

Dane Martin · « **Reply #12 on:** December 14, 2015, 01:56:24 PM »

Jeez, sorry for the delay Chris! Yes, i don't think there's a black. But, let me look at some stuff. There's another brand that has black. Gotta remember it.
And yes.... I missed it. For reasons I'm sure you understand going through the same situation

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 14, 2015, 02:42:15 PM »

Chris I just saw this and also have the 1/2a Stuka in the mix to build this winter

Sounds like you want to put black on. I don't know what I am doing yet for colors but I will tell you this:

Avoid Brodak black...I like a lot of Brodak stuff but the black sux big time.... on looking it up, I see they don't sell the Black anymore

Probably because of experiences like mine..... the adhesive coloring does not stick to the plastic worth a damn

I wanted black wings on a 1/2a Satan and the crap never stuck down and when I removed it had a black glue/goo mess to get off the wingsOn my Stuka I have enough of the Sig 000 silkspan to use, and their dope, but may try 5mm silk that I have and dope colors..... starting to dig some of the German Winter paint schemes

Dane Martin · « **Reply #14 on:** December 14, 2015, 03:08:45 PM »

I'm with Fred on that. I feel bad for saying it, but that black is not a solid performer. Try black econokote, Chris. You may be surprised at its great usability on 1/2a models. Shrink and application temp is 275, so it's easy to work with

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #15 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:02:31 PM »

Quote from: Chris Behm on December 08, 2015, 04:58:39 PM

Dane-

No black in UltraCote Lite, right??
I will need something for my RSM Mini Stuka eventually.
Mini Me will be sporting an .061 in the nose, and as such will need to be glo-fuel proof.

I'm wondering about the polyspan with SLC over it, but that means twice the covering job....

Regards,
Chris.
PS. I heard you ended up not making it to the Rich Lopez memorial last weekend. I was bummed not to meet you Friday. I sulked all the while pulling on my Banshee and Oriental!

you can color (black) the clear dope (with fade proof Higgins artists ink added to your thinner) as you apply the polyspan. I have not tried black but have used the blue on my Cardinal and it has not faded . See the Photo Gallery, district 5, 16th row down, last pic on right. Darker blue wing tips obtained with a few extra coats.
NOTE: Polyspan requies multiple coaqts to seal pores, may be too heavy for 1/2A.

Roger Vizioli · « **Reply #16 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:15:58 PM »

I've been told, have not tried it, that SLC is strong enough to cover a 1/2 a and it does take dope when properly cleaned.

Roger .

Target · « **Reply #17 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:31:14 PM »

Gents-

Thanks for the replies. I'm REALLY not a dope guy, although I have dabbled in it like 30+ years ago (I'm a wee bit older than you, Dane!)...
I am definitely more inclined to do an iron on film, but am wondering if the light SLC over a dark green, or if available, black Polyspan, might not be trick.
I do definitely plan at this time to build for the Norvel .061 with a custom, mini uni-flow tank setup.
I'm not sure if running 25% nitro has any bearing on the covering chosen. Clearly I will have to fuel proof the nose area.
And I don't mind using Stix-It or Balsarite for the Polyspan application.
Just wondering if it is worth the second application of SLC that will add weight to an already large-ish 1/2A plane.

Dane-
Really sorry to hear that things effected you having some fun and coming out here.
My buddy Don knew that morning you weren't going to make it out, apparently you and he are on the same email circuit.
I have Don half talked into making a trip for CL and or RC sailplanes

(if FAA legal in the coming year, LOL) out to Vegas. I guess he has a C/L buddy or two out there. Don't fret, we leftover divorced men will eventually meet up and have fun flying. (Did I tell you that the Ex wants half my planes, as posted on the petition? Seriously? WTF?!)

Fred-
Did you check the beam width yet? Got a plan for that, buddy? I think I will narrow the nose ring and the two front formers to make it right for the .061. I'm curious what others will do. Plan B would be to add a 3/16" shim to each beam to bring them in to 5/8".
But thinning the width will make the beast more slippery, and lighter. Plan B is easier, but draggier and heavier.
I'm liking plan A.

Econocote is being considered. Easy to use, I have used it before. But not much stiffness.
I could just blow off the desire for a Black Stuka and easily go with Ultracote light. Love that stuff.

SLC and dope or rattle can over is another option. Thanks Roger

R,
Chris

Fredvon4 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 15, 2015, 08:07:53 AM »

If you like using SLC (I do on foam wings) I have real good success with light spray on under side and have used scotchbrite pads to skuff it up for rattle can top coat paint with one problem.... I must have got some oil from fingers in one area that fisheyed...so if that method- wear gloves and wipe down with alcohol or something to remove ALL contamiinents

Chancey Chorney · « **Reply #19 on:** December 15, 2015, 04:53:49 PM »

Ok guys. I think I am officially blind. I read over this two times and could not find SLC. Could someone please enlighten me and tell me what it stands for. Thanks.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #20 on:** December 15, 2015, 06:33:34 PM »

Super light covering. Iron on from from Phil Cartier. At least that's the only guy i know supplying it! Lol. But it's really cool stuff!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #21 on:** December 15, 2015, 07:08:57 PM »

You can type in home.earthlink.net/~philcartier or google corehouse model airplanes.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #22 on:** December 15, 2015, 07:17:39 PM »

Chris, the slc is awfully light. If you applied it over the poly on a 1/2A size plane, would you be able to measure enough of a weight difference to notice / care? That sounds like it might be a good option. But in the case of weight, if you're willing to go through that, then maybe just black Monokote? I have several Monokote covered 1/2A planes that i would say are light. And.... Really?? Your model airplanes? Does she know they're worthless after purchased? Lol