I am finishing the 1/2 A magician with a some what non-standard finish.
I am flying electric and making NO attempt at being fuel proof.
So far Here is the plan.
I am using Cabot sanding sealer. Its a lacquer based product.
Then sand it down to a smooth base for using polyurethane.
I am trying Rust oleum ultimate polyurethane. Its a water based product, but it is going on over the sanding sealer.
I am using a simple polyester lining material from Joann's fabric's.
Cost was 4.99 a yard. The basic approach is to tack the fabric down with a glue stick and then seal all the edges till the polyester sticks. Then try to shrink with heat and sea with polyurethane.
SO far had a minor problem with the glue stick I had here at the house....It's blue and does not dry clear.
So tomorrow I'll be buying a few new sticks of my own. Though i will leave the wing I used it on as is.
Photo's to follow.

Ok, now I'm on a delay waiting for a monokote iron. My hair dryer will not heat it enough.

I have removed the polyester material and am waiting....
I a spare wing that I have had which is mostly built and will use it as a covering material test wing. I have puts sheeting on 2 separate bays and will cover the area between them with some materials and see what happens....
I went to Joann's and purchased a ripstop nylon that's fairly light and try using that.
I have applied 1 coat of sanding sealer and when its dry I will sand it and coat with polyurethane. Then see if I can apply the nylon and shrink it and coat it with polyurethane.

OK, I have covered the Replica Magician with nylon and used polyurethane over Sanding sealer.
I have had a few wrinkles that have to be worked out on my next model.
1. the p/u does not go through the nylon particularly well. So getting it to stay adhered is a bit more difficult than with dope.
On the first wing I did I had already attached the flaps and that created a problem. I tried covering with 1 piece wrapped from the lower trailing edge all the way to the upper trailing edge.  It has stuck well on the center and outboard planking but wants to stay separated where the trailing edge sheet is. The problem is that as long as its on a curve like a ball its fine. But when the surface us concaved it pulls away and wants to float off the surface.
The tips have been covered with an iron material I have had in my storage unit for about 5 years now.
Next is to finish the rest of the bare wood of the plane and paint it some.

For now it's covered. Its the first model I have built in years and its close to flying at least.
I'll upload some photos in a day or two.
The test wing presented no covering problems because the flaps are separate and the surface is very curved.