Carbon fiber push rod

[nobler8824]

I'm looking for the push rod kit that comes with the push rod, wooden dowels, steel rods and the plastic ends caps. Is this something that is still available?

[Paul Walker]

Check out Central Hobbies on the web in Billings Montana. Great pushrod hardware.

[Matt Colan]

I'm looking for the push rod kit that comes with the push rod, wooden dowels, steel rods and the plastic ends caps. Is this something that is still available?

Don’t use steel. Get the titanium hardware from central hobbies. I learned my lesson with steel

[Motorman]

Not sure anyone is using the wooden dowl steel wire method any more.

[RC Storick]

I use a 1/4 aluminum tube filled with balsa then drip thin CA inside. 1/4 dowl JB welded in the end with 3/32 wire.

[Colin McRae]

I have been making up my CF pushrods as shown in this video. Has worked well with no issues so far.

I use a 3mm ID / 5 mm OD CF rod that I got from a local hobby shop. The 3mm ID is perfect for a threaded 4-40 stud insert.

I take a 4-40 one-inch-long bolt and cut off the head with my Dremel. This produces a 1" 4-40 threaded stud.

I use a 2-56/4-40 Dubro ball link.

I JB weld the stud into the CF rod.

Then basically follow the video means and methods to finish off.

I also drill a micro hole in the rod for air pressure relief when making up the second end of the rod. This prevents the second stud from pushing back out due to built-up air pressure within the rod so you can set the final length you desire.

[Martin Quartim]

I have been making up my CF pushrods as shown in this video. Has worked well with no issues so far.

I use a 3mm ID / 5 mm OD CF rod that I got from a local hobby shop. The 3mm ID is perfect for a threaded 4-40 stud insert.

I take a 4-40 one-inch-long bolt and cut off the head with my Dremel. This produces a 1" 4-40 threaded stud.

I use a 2-56/4-40 Dubro ball link.

I JB weld the stud into the CF rod.

Then basically follow the video means and methods to finish off.

I also drill a micro hole in the rod for air pressure relief when making up the second end of the rod. This prevents the second stud from pushing back out due to built-up air pressure within the rod so you can set the final length you desire.

the only problem in this process is that  if you let it cure laying flat on the table the JB will run flat to the bottom inside the tube.

I do one end at the time and clamp it vertically during the curing process, this way all the glue will stay at the tip and around the threaded insert.

 I also use a rolled piece of sand paper to scratch the inside of the tube  and then clean it  thoroughly with alcohol.

Martin

[Motorman]

I alway thought of JB weld as being fairly thixotropic.

[Colin McRae]

the only problem in this process is that  if you let it cure laying flat on the table the JB will run flat to the bottom inside the tube.

I do one end at the time and clamp it vertically during the curing process, this way all the glue will stay at the tip and around the threaded insert.

 I also use a rolled piece of sand paper to scratch the inside of the tube  and then clean it  thoroughly with alcohol.

Martin

I could see that happening if there was a significant gap between the threaded stud and the CF tube ID. The 3mm ID CF tube I have been using and a 4-40 threaded stud is a snug fit. If the JB epoxy is pooling at the bottom, I have not seen any ill effects. The pushrod ends have been plenty strong and adequate for the application.

[Steve Helmick]

I could see that happening if there was a significant gap between the threaded stud and the CF tube ID. The 3mm ID CF tube I have been using and a 4-40 threaded stud is a snug fit. If the JB epoxy is pooling at the bottom, I have not seen any ill effects. The pushrod ends have been plenty strong and adequate for the application.

On the other hand...if a guy is an expert class flier and expects to put 1,000 > 3,000 flights on his new plane...or if he's building planes for paying customers...attention to details and control system durability is mandatory*.  Steve

*Except of course, for the inexpensive ARF's. If the controls on those last for 10 flights, you're lucky.