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[Motorman]

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[Crist Rigotti]

Get them from Tom Morris or MBS Supply

[Mike Greb]

I machine mine out of barstock.

[Steve Helmick]

I've made up my own lines, but for the last 5 years or so, I've been buying ready-made lines from either Tom Morris or CLC. When I start making my own lines again (if), I'll use brass tubing on both line ends and leadouts, in the manner of Danny Dirt. Two reasons: 1) The tubing protects the cable completely from the line clips during hookup process. 2) Much less likely to do that "twist & lock" crap that you always have to check before launching.   Steve

[john e. holliday]

For wrapping lines or even lead outs I do  not use those eyelets.   I get brass tubing and run it through a torch to red hot and let cool.  Cut to length, about 1 to 1 1/4 inch.   Slide the wire or cable through with enough excess for wrapping and I use a 1/8 drill bit to wrap around.   It holds the cable/wire so you can wrap easier.

[Paul Taylor]

Check the latest issue of CLW. 

[phil myers]

I think the idea is to slide the brass tubing over the line and this is bent (around a drill bit) to form a horse shoe shape, which holds the wire nicely whilst the whipping is done.. Heat treating the tubing makes it easier to bend without kinking or fracturing... Phil

[Mike Griffin]

I do what Doc was explaining only I use copper tubing.  I like this method a whole lot more than using eyelets...

Mike

[Steve Helmick]

I looked for a picture that I believe Dirty Dan posted, but I failed to save. Dan showed how he chamfered the ends of the tube to get a close fit at the ends of the tubing, which looks very "Pro-Stunt". If you look on McMaster-Carr or anyplace that sells cable, you should find a picture of a "thimble". The only difference is that a cable thimble typically has an open outer side, which you don't get with the tube.

I dug around on Google and found this site and a jewelry product that might just work for our use. It is partially open on the outside radius, which I think would be ok. You should be able to find such stuff at any good craft store, such as Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Their purpose is much like ours, as are the wire sizes. I didn't search for ideal sizes of thimbles, but did find this instructional series of pictures. http://www.artbeads.com/handy-tips-cable-thimble.html The only difference would be using copper wire binding to secure the cable and a length (or two) of heat shrink tubing to secure the copper wire.  Steve

[Dick Pacini]

Check the latest issue of CLW. 

It's a good article, Paul, but there has been much written about why you should not use epoxy to secure the ends of the line because it creates a stress point.

[john e. holliday]

Ok I get it. What size tubing for .015" cable?

Most times it is 1/16 brass tubing from the Metals rack at Ace Hardware.   But lately I found some in bulk package at the Hobby Lobby Craft Store.   3/32 is next size I use for swagging the cable.

[MarcusCordeiro]

It's a good article, Paul, but there has been much written about why you should not use epoxy to secure the ends of the line because it creates a stress point.

According to AMA, epóxi should be used, and not solder...
Now you guys got me confused...

Marcus

[john e. holliday]

I would never use epoxy and I only used solder on solid wire in the events that required solid wire for competing.   I tried my best not to flex wire/cable at the terminations.  I didn't even like shrink tubing for marking which line is which.   The racing planes the lines usually stayed connected to the planes.   On all others I leave the up line clip on the plane when rolling up lines.   I roll the lines up from the handle to the plane.   

[MarcusCordeiro]

http://www.tulsacl.com/LineWrap.html

Marcus

[Douglas Ames]

What do you guys use to make you line ends? All the eyelets I've seen have fairly sharp edges. Some of the better ones have one rolled edge but the other side is raw.

Thanks,
MM

To answer your question -
The eyelets (grommets) we use for our hobby are un-crimped in 1/8" & 5/32" ID sizes. They are intended for lacing in fabrics or leather. I'm surprised no one (CL suppliers) is offering settings tools or dies to properly crimp these.
I used to use a set at work, but on a larger scale to repair cargo barrier nets in Airliners.

Here's a link to a set of crimping pliers for 5/32"/ #000. There are (strike type) dies out there for 1/8" if you do some searching.

http://goldstartool.com/Eyelet_Setting_Pliers_with_100_Grommets.html

I'd crimp LIGHTLY around the cable, DON'T crush it!

These are on my want list of tools.

[ericrule]

All of the above methods work. As an alternative you can just order our part @ HF600 and get a bag of 25 preformed eyelets.

Eric Rule

[Willie Johnson]

Since so many use the tubing instead of eyelets, why isn't it in the AMA rules?  I read the the AMA rules and may have missed  it.  Many who use eyelets for lines use the tubing on their leadouts.  Just wondering.

Willie

[Akihiro Danjo]

Since so many use the tubing instead of eyelets, why isn't it in the AMA rules?  I read the the AMA rules and may have missed  it.  Many who use eyelets for lines use the tubing on their leadouts.  Just wondering.

I think its because AMA rules do not regulate leadout cables but control lines.

Aki

[Steve Helmick]

Any LHS or Ace Hardware should have the brass tubing in 12" or 36" lengths. Perhaps they're out? How about checking Tower Hobby?

As for AMA, they don't get terribly specific on this sort of thing, and actually specified soldering long after it was widely known that it was a bad thing to do for either cable lines or leadouts. I'm more surprised that they allow solid leadouts, which are (IMO) strictly a bad way to go. Opinions vary, and AMA allows some creativity...otherwise, we'd still be required to solder cable lines. When you bind stainless cables with a length of copper wire, it takes very few wraps of copper wire before you can't slide the copper over the stainless...some sort of affinity of the two....like Titanium and Carbide micrometer jaw faces...high friction. I'm sure Brett or Howard could tell us why, and I would welcome that.  I've only experienced these things.    Steve

[Bruce Shipp]

Could someone please post a close up Picture of these line ends finished with the brass tubing? I have never seen these types of ends.   1000 words, as they say. Thank you.

[Andrew Hathaway]

K&S 1/16" brass tubing works fine.  I bend the tubing with round jaw pliers, no need to anneal the tubing, it's plenty soft already.  I still use eyelets on lines.  The heavier wire of leadouts is a pain to hold around the eyelet while wrapping, and brass tubing is available and cheap.

[Bruce Shipp]

Thanks, Andrew.  I have seen this done on the lead outs.  I was hoping to get a picture of some flying line ends. 

Thanks,

Bruce

[Willie Johnson]

  FYI From the 2011-2012 CL General AMA Rules:
"The guidelines for construction of the control lines are also recommended for construction of the aircraft lead-out wires."

Willie