Yawing(seeing the inboard tip swinging fore and aft) comes from some imbalance between the design(wing offset mainly), the rudder, engine offset, CG, leadout position, and prop precession(nose turns in on sharp outsides). Most people these days start with everything set as neutral as possible and go from there, as needed. For example, the rudder and fin may look straight, but since the plane is flying around a circle it actually has a bit of an angle of attack, or maybe it is just slightly warped or crooked, so you may need to adjust the rudder neutral to correct. Put the leadouts in the calculated position(one of the Line programs will help) and make sure you have located the CG accurately(within 1/8 in.). It doesn't have to be where the designer suggests, but you have to know so you can set the leadouts. When the plane yaws that may also cause some rolling.
Bobbles, or rolling movements come from lateral imbalances. Warps, twisted flaps, uneven airfoils along the wing, tip weight, and any feedback from the yaws. The Twister wing is pretty square and also more subject to gusts than a tapered wing. Even a light breeze, if it is gusty, will make the wing wobble. The profile fuselage can also cause turbulence over one wing or the other, depending on the wind direction, and cause a bit of a roll. Make sure the flaps are flat and untwisted and exactly neutral with each other. Then dewarp the wing as needed to get it to fly level and keep even tension on both inside and outside loops. Tweaking the flaps gives you a wing with changing airfoil shapes all along it. That will make it do funny things in some maneuvers but not others. Once the wing is straight trim the tip weight to get just a tiny bit of roll in tight maneuvers.
When all that is done you still will probably be getting some precession effects from the prop. A Rabe rudder is the best solution, but you can use smaller, lighter props to reduce the effects. The difference between a wood prop and a plastic one can be huge.