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Author Topic: metal clunk tank  (Read 2887 times)

Offline Bootlegger

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metal clunk tank
« on: August 23, 2013, 03:08:30 PM »

  Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
  I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.

      Thanks a lot...
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2013, 03:35:37 PM »
  Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
  I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.

      Thanks a lot...

     I have built several for other people, back when 4-strokes were a happening thing. There was nothing very special about them. I used the thin-wall silicone tubing like Sullivan instead of the really tough stuff, wired it to the pickup tube and a conventional Sullivan with fine wire (not too tight), and used fixed uniflow vent that went about halfway back so the clunk was free to move. I also relieved the sharp edges on the clunk  but I doubt that it makes much difference. All the tanks I made were essentially square.

     They worked fine, and as far as I know no one ever had a problem with any of them. They didn't work any better than Sullivan tanks but these were made to fit specific airplanes where Sullivan would not fit in there.

     Brett

Offline Dallas Hanna

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2013, 04:55:53 AM »
 Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
  I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.

      Thanks a lot...

If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.

HH

Offline Larry Renger

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2013, 07:56:02 AM »
For 1/2A I make my clunk from a piece of copper tube with a wheel collar in the middle. That gives a place on one end for the fuel tube and an e tension on the other to reach into the corners of the tank. I also use a fixed uniform vent.
Think S.M.A.L.L. y'all and, it's all good, CL, FF and RC!

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Offline Garf

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2013, 08:53:20 AM »
I developed one of these for my large profile models, then adapted it to the ARF Noblers I have. I bought a batch of Kap Pak Free Flight tanks and set it up to fit the tank compartment of the NoblARF. It has cured most of the problems I was having. I usually don't need uniflow and I get near perfect engine runs. I usually use muffler pressure. The only drawback is that in case of a yard dart, the clunk weight ends up in the front of the tank sometimes puncturing the front wall. On the NoblARF tank, I put the vents in from the bottom and was getting fuel coming out the vent when filling the tank, so I reworked the ends of the vent tubes to prevent that from happening. This batch of pics is the profile version.

Offline Garf

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2013, 09:49:57 AM »
These pics are of a tank modified for the NoblARF that failed. Never use the light blue tubing. It fractures under stress.

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2013, 11:06:47 AM »
If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.

I've done something like that, only with two pieces -- the same collar as yours, but the feedthrough screws in, instead of being held in.
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Offline Bootlegger

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2013, 12:25:12 PM »

  Guy's thanks for the info/assists I really do appreciate the help.

  Garf, I sent ya' a P M.
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2013, 01:36:03 PM »
If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.

It appears that if you have some brass tubing of just the right diameter, the clunk assembly from a Hayes tank may just plug right in.

Just thinking out loud -- I haven't tried it, or even measured things.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2013, 02:17:40 PM »
It appears that if you have some brass tubing of just the right diameter, the clunk assembly from a Hayes tank may just plug right in.

Just thinking out loud -- I haven't tried it, or even measured things.

I had exactly the same thought, Tim. The Hayes tanks are simple and reliable, largely because of the simple plug-in clunk assembly. While pondering the idea, I was also thinking about a way to make the uniflow vent easily adjustable.  ;D Steve
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Offline Dallas Hanna

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2013, 03:59:02 PM »
I had exactly the same thought, Tim. The Hayes tanks are simple and reliable, largely because of the simple plug-in clunk assembly. While pondering the idea, I was also thinking about a way to make the uniflow vent easily adjustable.  ;D Steve

Try this Steve  :)  Bend uniflow up/down to change level. Base fitting soldered to tank side. Screw in pipe clamp nut.  Tried it on the old Merco 35 in a Stingray and it worked.  Initially ran rich inverted.

Size wise, the base fitting is drilled with a #2 centre drill and then drilled with 1/8" plus a few thou to clear the copper pipe.  It is then tapped M6 x 0.5.  The clamp nut made from 1/4" AF brass is M6 x 0.5 x a suitable length to clamp the soldered on collet which is 5.3mm diameter drilled 1/8" and tapered to 60 deg to suit the centre drilled hole in the base.

As my tank was fixed it was placed in the usual side position.  It could be placed in any suitable place to satisfy individual preferences of tank building.

HH
« Last Edit: August 25, 2013, 06:05:48 PM by Dallas Hanna »

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2013, 04:01:38 PM »
Try this Steve  :)

Are those off the shelf parts, or more things you found on your lathe?
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Dallas Hanna

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2013, 04:04:00 PM »
Are those off the shelf parts, or more things you found on your lathe?

Yes Tim, found them on my lathe. D>K   Will make a drawing and post tonight if anyone wants to make one.

HH
« Last Edit: August 25, 2013, 06:06:32 PM by Dallas Hanna »

Offline Chris Wilson

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #13 on: August 25, 2013, 06:21:38 PM »
  Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank..........

Um, shouldn't that be a 'clank tank?' :)
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Offline Dallas Hanna

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #14 on: August 25, 2013, 08:13:31 PM »

Offline dennis lipsett

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #15 on: August 25, 2013, 08:23:41 PM »
Harold Debolt made the first Clunk tank in 1960. Simple to make and foolproof in operation. It has now been revived for the R/C industry as a high end tank system. Pricy but really nice units but only available from 16oz upwards

Offline Chris Wilson

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #16 on: August 25, 2013, 08:31:35 PM »
Was a long time ago I posted this play on words Chris!!

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=292790&mesg_id=292790&listing_type=search
Hey Herb,
                I have seen your 'clankers' in flight mate and they work perfectly!

And it seems that I wasn't the first to come up with that term, oh well, no harm, no foul.
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Offline Garf

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Re: metal clunk tank
« Reply #17 on: August 26, 2013, 05:08:06 PM »
Harold Debolt made the first Clunk tank in 1960. Simple to make and foolproof in operation. It has now been revived for the R/C industry as a high end tank system. Pricy but really nice units but only available from 16oz upwards
I just saw a 10 oz advertised.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2013, 08:08:23 PM by Garf »


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