stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bootlegger on August 23, 2013, 03:08:30 PM
-
Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.
Thanks a lot...
-
Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.
Thanks a lot...
I have built several for other people, back when 4-strokes were a happening thing. There was nothing very special about them. I used the thin-wall silicone tubing like Sullivan instead of the really tough stuff, wired it to the pickup tube and a conventional Sullivan with fine wire (not too tight), and used fixed uniflow vent that went about halfway back so the clunk was free to move. I also relieved the sharp edges on the clunk but I doubt that it makes much difference. All the tanks I made were essentially square.
They worked fine, and as far as I know no one ever had a problem with any of them. They didn't work any better than Sullivan tanks but these were made to fit specific airplanes where Sullivan would not fit in there.
Brett
-
Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank, and if so would you share the special features that you installed/built into your tank?
I am thinking about giving this a try and am looking for any and all help/suggestions from this forum.
Thanks a lot...
If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.
HH
-
For 1/2A I make my clunk from a piece of copper tube with a wheel collar in the middle. That gives a place on one end for the fuel tube and an e tension on the other to reach into the corners of the tank. I also use a fixed uniform vent.
-
I developed one of these for my large profile models, then adapted it to the ARF Noblers I have. I bought a batch of Kap Pak Free Flight tanks and set it up to fit the tank compartment of the NoblARF. It has cured most of the problems I was having. I usually don't need uniflow and I get near perfect engine runs. I usually use muffler pressure. The only drawback is that in case of a yard dart, the clunk weight ends up in the front of the tank sometimes puncturing the front wall. On the NoblARF tank, I put the vents in from the bottom and was getting fuel coming out the vent when filling the tank, so I reworked the ends of the vent tubes to prevent that from happening. This batch of pics is the profile version.
-
These pics are of a tank modified for the NoblARF that failed. Never use the light blue tubing. It fractures under stress.
-
If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.
I've done something like that, only with two pieces -- the same collar as yours, but the feedthrough screws in, instead of being held in.
-
Guy's thanks for the info/assists I really do appreciate the help.
Garf, I sent ya' a P M.
-
If you have a lathe or know someone who has access to one try this.
It appears that if you have some brass tubing of just the right diameter, the clunk assembly from a Hayes tank may just plug right in.
Just thinking out loud -- I haven't tried it, or even measured things.
-
It appears that if you have some brass tubing of just the right diameter, the clunk assembly from a Hayes tank may just plug right in.
Just thinking out loud -- I haven't tried it, or even measured things.
I had exactly the same thought, Tim. The Hayes tanks are simple and reliable, largely because of the simple plug-in clunk assembly. While pondering the idea, I was also thinking about a way to make the uniflow vent easily adjustable. ;D Steve
-
I had exactly the same thought, Tim. The Hayes tanks are simple and reliable, largely because of the simple plug-in clunk assembly. While pondering the idea, I was also thinking about a way to make the uniflow vent easily adjustable. ;D Steve
Try this Steve :) Bend uniflow up/down to change level. Base fitting soldered to tank side. Screw in pipe clamp nut. Tried it on the old Merco 35 in a Stingray and it worked. Initially ran rich inverted.
Size wise, the base fitting is drilled with a #2 centre drill and then drilled with 1/8" plus a few thou to clear the copper pipe. It is then tapped M6 x 0.5. The clamp nut made from 1/4" AF brass is M6 x 0.5 x a suitable length to clamp the soldered on collet which is 5.3mm diameter drilled 1/8" and tapered to 60 deg to suit the centre drilled hole in the base.
As my tank was fixed it was placed in the usual side position. It could be placed in any suitable place to satisfy individual preferences of tank building.
HH
-
Try this Steve :)
Are those off the shelf parts, or more things you found on your lathe?
-
Are those off the shelf parts, or more things you found on your lathe?
Yes Tim, found them on my lathe. D>K Will make a drawing and post tonight if anyone wants to make one.
HH
-
Fellow's have any of y'all ever built a metal clunk tank..........
Um, shouldn't that be a 'clank tank?' :)
-
Um, shouldn't that be a 'clank tank?' :)
Was a long time ago I posted this play on words Chris!!
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=292790&mesg_id=292790&listing_type=search
-
Harold Debolt made the first Clunk tank in 1960. Simple to make and foolproof in operation. It has now been revived for the R/C industry as a high end tank system. Pricy but really nice units but only available from 16oz upwards
-
Was a long time ago I posted this play on words Chris!!
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=292790&mesg_id=292790&listing_type=search
Hey Herb,
I have seen your 'clankers' in flight mate and they work perfectly!
And it seems that I wasn't the first to come up with that term, oh well, no harm, no foul.
-
Harold Debolt made the first Clunk tank in 1960. Simple to make and foolproof in operation. It has now been revived for the R/C industry as a high end tank system. Pricy but really nice units but only available from 16oz upwards
I just saw a 10 oz advertised.