David, the problem with using synthetics is that butyrate dopes don't adhere to it well. I've done it, it worked and I also had a failure doing it one time. The clear coats actually shed like a sheet from the material. One thing to remember about nitrate is it is probably the most universal base for most paints. Therefore having this product on hand or having extra isn't a bad thing. Nitrate works with laquers, enamels, water based as well. This is assuming you let it gas off properly. You can apply the adhesion coats with nitrate then switch to butyrate. Remember nitrate first than butyrate, never the other way around or it will crinkle and alligator. I use it extensively with Koverall due to the finish I use afterwards which is Nelson water based polyurethanes. I do know that nitrate seems to be sanded at a quicker rate than butyrate. This is a real advantage when using Koverall. I don't sand Koverall when using it. I use Scotch Brite pads and scuff it down which really works well giving you a great finish and no tears in the weave which is easily done and impossible to repair. Yes, you can use Balsa Rite but it has to be the formula for fabric and not for film. Sig makes their version which is Stix-It. For a first time user of this product, I would highly recommend them. They do add weight. I find that the dope installation works better myself. Just remember once you install the bottom wing panel your left with no dope on the overlap areas for the top wing panel. This just means you have to either use the adhesive or dope on all the overlap areas prior to installing the top panel. Koverall is very durable, stays tight and can be easily twisted to straighten a wing with a heat gun afterwards. Use a sharp knife to cut it. The little frays can be a real pain in the !@#$. These can be removed after a few coats of dope and some light sanding will clean the fuzzies up. Ken