Steve,
Just what Bill said.
As well, you can leave the dihedral in, in fact it makes them fly better. Also run the leadouts within the wing and out the tip like a stunter. An adjustable leadout guide is a good idea. You will have to open the ribs up in the inboard wing, but it is easy to do.
When you build the wing, you can make the ailerons just like the kit says, and then fix them with dowels, push rods or what ever. You could even keep them adjustable, if one wing flies higher than the other you can trim the roll with an aileron.
For the rudder you can do the same thing, in fact it is a really good idea to make it adjustable. The elevator can be built as shown, but use an all metal commercial horn with an adjustable clevis to allow you to get a neutral adjustment.
The tolerences on rigging the JRoberts/GS/Br*dak bellcrank is not super hard to do, but a little tedious. The handle, lines and bellcrank are available commercially. I think for a 60 the three line, 70 foot 018's would be about right. Then read all of the instructions and set it up with your favorite R/C 60.
These things can be a ton of fun, and make sure you bush your wheels because you can melt the plastic from all of the cruising around on take offs and landings.
Chris...