Sanding Brodak white primer

[Juan Valentin]

                 I sprayed a Brodak white primer on my ringmaster as I want to paint the fuse and tail and cover the wings with monokote to keep it light.I`m sanding with 3M 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper and would like to know if the is a way to keep my sandpaper from cloging.I been using a paintbrushand a wire brush to clear it but would like to know if there is an easier way.All help appreciated.
                                                                                                                                              juan

[Brett Buck]

                I sprayed a Brodak white primer on my ringmaster as I want to paint the fuse and tail and cover the wings with monokote to keep it light.I`m sanding with 3M 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper and would like to know if the is a way to keep my sandpaper from cloging.I been using a paintbrushand a wire brush to clear it but would like to know if there is an easier way.All help appreciated.
                                                                                                                                              juan

   I think the idea was and the instructions say to wet-sand it.

    Brett

[Bill Little]

What Brett said, plus it might help to let it cure a bit longer.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

[Juan Valentin]

               
            Thanks for the help guys. The instructions  don`t mention wet sanding in the
5 steps written on the back of the white primer can.The plane was primed 3 days ago
I thought the primer had dried. I wanted to fly this plane in the ringmaster marathon
this year but was unable to finish it. I will be careful with it to have it for next year.
Thanks again.
                                                                                               Juan
                                                                     

[Allan Perret]

Try using a coaser grit paper.  I sand it dry with 220.

[builditright]

Also get a few Sanding Backing Pads and some sticky back sandpaper
they're really a great item to have in the shop


 
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/5-12-Sanding-Backing-Pad-P401/55-S1/
on this site they're only
$3.74

[Tim Wescott]

This is probably obvious to anyone who didn't grow up sanding cars, but you do not need to use a dribbling hose, or a 5-gallon bucket of water and a sponge to supply water for your sanding.  In fact, unless you like drenched balsa, you don't want to.  But you do need enough water on your paper.

You only need just enough water to float the paint dust away from the sandpaper grit as you sand.  Frequently dipping the sandpaper in water, and frequently wiping down the airframe with a damp cloth or sponge will keep the sandpaper clear and the unpainted parts of the airframe dry.

Look at your sandpaper often -- if it's getting clogged you'll see the paint stuck to it, and you know you need more water.

The advise about 220 grit is good -- but I'm going to stop here, and before I write a treatise on painting, tell you to go out looking on the web, or ask for a pointer from someone.  There's a whole art to this airplane painting thing, which would fill several books.  Harry Higley's There Are No Secrets is probably a good starting point (and, I think, is still in print).  Mark Scarborough's series in Stunt World is shaping up to be full of lots of good information, too.  Beyond that, if you know anyone with a supply of back issues of Flying Models magazine, it seems that everyone who ever writes a construction article on a CLPA ship goes to great length on how to do a finish.

If you're absolutely positively averse to wet sanding, then use the finest dry paper you can find, and be ready to be happy with a flyable, fuel-proof airplane that looks like it looks.

[John Lindberg]

I used to use Brodak primer (the white stuff) like it has been said, the only way I could sand it was with wet-sanding, actually, it was my introduction to wet-sanding, not much previous experience before my C/L painting started.

[Mark Scarborough]

Well ,at risk of being mugged,I have some concerns about the product itself. This is not the first report I have heard of this problems. From my experience wet sanding is a marginal solution.it helps but barely.
In other scenarios I have found that the brand ,more specifically the type of paper can affect this problem-.
I think however there is some issue with the resin in the primer that is causing the problem.it may be helpful to hear what is under the primer,nitrate , butyrate, or something else ?perhaps someone who has had specific good luck sanding this product could chime in with some specific data ?

[Mike Haverly]

I bought some of this stuff about ten years ago.  The best thing I did was leave the lid off the can, let it harden and throw the rest of it away.  Wet sanding would probably work depending on what you are doing next but I think there are better products than this one.  Also, there is some confusion on the purpose of "primer".  Mark could elaborate.

[Tim Wescott]

Also, there is some confusion on the purpose of "primer".  Mark could elaborate.

I thought you needed primer to make your plane primo.

Or am I confused?

[Will Davis]

I have had good luck with the Brodak  primer when it is sprayed, if it is brushed I think it will take too long to dry due to the inconsistent buildup, wil be the same with any non catalized primer , Use a cheap spray gun  for very even coats or apply thin coats applied at least 24 hours apart. Start sanding with 220 grit dry