Question for you machinist out there

[Randy Powell]

I've been having a problem in my shop. The humidity has been so high that my mill and drill press have been getting a patina of rust on them. I've spent more time in the last two week cleaning them that using them. What can be used on the machines to prevent this? I used to just squirt some oil on a rag and run it over the exposed surfaces, but because of the high humidity, I've been having to do that almost daily and am still getting some rust.

Any recommendations?

[Lee Thiel]

Same thing here Randy. Since dust hasn't been a problem, I have just been spraying a coat of WD-40 on all surfaces that will rust.  Don't WD mean water displacement?  Works good for me, and seems to last for several weeks when I am not using the machines.  I know I spent quite a while with a scotch brite pad when I first found this problem. So far, so good.
LeeTGD

[Brian Thwaites]

Hi Randy
Any good tool suply shop should have M1 lubricant, good for just what you want. check attached link
http://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/groupf.asp?GroupID=530

[Rod Claus]

Randy,
We use some stuff called BOESHIELD during annuals on our airplanes.This is the same stuff Boeing uses on their aircraft.You can get it at Spencers or any aircraft supply outfit.It comes in spray cans for easy appication.Just spray a lite coat on all your surfaces and it will protect it from moisture.Neat stuff!!
Rod Claus
See you at VSC........

[Will Hinton]

Randy,
If all the above great suggestions don't happen you can go to the wood working catalogs and get the compound they sell for table saws, etc. for that purpose.  Try Rockler first if it gets to that, but the other guys have given really good clues.
By the way, do you use a ventless gas heater in the shop by any chance?  They will really introduce moisture and rust into the shop - I found out the hard way!
Blessings,
Will

[Keith Polzin]

  Candle wax. Rub it on.

[Dick Byron]

Chicken fat works well, but not for the chicken. Ever seen a rusty chicken?

[Steve Helmick]

We (sometimes) have Starrett M-1 at work (reams a smaller hole in aluminum than anything else we found), but it's not always in stock at our LTS. Personally, I think it's LPS-1 with a different label & for more money. Paraffin or candle wax would be useful alternatives. But where's all the moisture coming from??  Steve

[Keith Spriggs]

Chicken fat works well, but not for the chicken. Ever seen a rusty chicken?LL

I had a white chicken one time that went on a crash diet. It lost all of it's chicken fat. One day it got caught in a sudden shower. Here is a picture of it the next day.

[Norm Faith Jr.]

Try a product called LPS 3 or Corrosion-X, we use this in the aircraft industry. Mostly on aluminum structures, but I use it on my machinery with great results. Warning: both products leave a film that may be a bit "sticky" to the touch. It's great for prolong lack of use. If the machinery is used daily LPS 1 or 2 will work fine also.
Norm

[Bill Gruby]

 Have had that problem for quite some time now here in Connecticut. I used to use "Rustlick 621 Moisture Displacing Rust Preventative" but now use strictly "LPS 3", much better protection. I get mine from Enco. Page 839 in their catalog.

   "Billy G" 

[KSeaton1]

I learned from my DAD years ago to use paste wax and I have never had a problem on my wood and metal working tools. Kevin Seaton Augusta, Kansas

[Rotten]

Try keeping a couple of 5 gallon pails of Calcium carbonate ( ice melter) around your shop it will suck up alot of moisture as well.

[Mike Spiess]

WD 40 is only temporary fix as it does evaporate. As for me my table saw gets Turtle Wax maybe twice a year on the top and the undercarriage gets White Lighting a bicycle chain lubricant. The reason I use these is I already have them available and on the shelf right next to the tool. As for my tools some sort of wax on solid surfaces especially cast iron and a dry lubricant on moving parts unless they have sealed bearings. A oily or greasy lube will attract dust and dirt and after a while the parts quit moving. A coat of wax on the top surfaces not only protects but also helps make it easier to use tho tool.

[Mike Spiess]

Randy,
If all the above great suggestions don't happen you can go to the wood working catalogs and get the compound they sell for table saws, etc. for that purpose.  Try Rockler first if it gets to that, but the other guys have given really good clues.
By the way, do you use a ventless gas heater in the shop by any chance?  They will really introduce moisture and rust into the shop - I found out the hard way!
Blessings,
Will

And Randy I aready told you about that heater dumping alot of moisture into your shop. Get a wood stove and burn up your scraps. That'll dry it out

[john e. holliday]

You guys that have not met Keith Spriggs yet are in for a treat.  He is a gentleman especially when the misses is with him. 
And like Kevin said a paste wax works great.  I still have a can of Johnson Pasted wax in the dungeon.  Later, DOC Holliday

[david beazley]

I concur with the paste wax.  I use an old can of Johnsons paste wax or Bowling Alley wax.  I keep a piece of fine Scotchbrite in the can to apply it with.  In case there is any surface rust the Scotchbrite will remove the rust and apply the wax at the same time.  The wax does not attract dust like oil will.  An old gunsmith put me on to this and also uses it on guns for the same reasons.

[Randy Powell]

Thanks for all the responses. I got a can of LPS 3 at Tacoma Screw. I cleaned the surfaces really well then shot some of that on a couple of days ago. Seems to be working so far.

Not sure why this year it's been such a problem, but high moisture in the shop has been a problem all winter. I had a roof leak (Some sealant and new shingles seems to have done for that), so that may be why there is more moisture in the shop. It's been drying out here for a bit, so hopefully, the problems are over.