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Author Topic: S-1 Ringmaster kit  (Read 1148 times)

Offline Cody bishop

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S-1 Ringmaster kit
« on: September 22, 2017, 04:38:58 PM »
Does anyone make a ringmaster kit with a solid leading edge i can't find someone who does

Offline James Holford

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2017, 04:40:33 PM »
Brodak maybe?

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Jamie Holford
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Offline mike londke

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2017, 05:39:14 PM »
Brodak is 3 piece LE. Really fun if you are into sanding and shaping. #^
AMA 48913  USPA D-19580  NRA Life Member  MI State Record Holder 50 way Freefall Formation Skydive  "Don't let the planet sneak up on you"

Offline Mike Griffin

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2017, 06:29:39 PM »
Hi Cody

As far as I know both  Brodak and RSM utilizes a built up leading edge.  I am not disputing Walter about the option of a solid leading edge from RSM but I have never known Eric Rule to offer that and have built over 30 of Erics Ringmaster kits. 

I would say your best bet if you want to build a RIngmaster with a solid leading edge, buy the shaped edges from someone if you can find straight ones or find them at all and cut you own ribs and build the wing from scratch.  I have done this in the past.  However the way Eric Rule designed that leading edge you have nothing to worry about from a strength prospective.  There are actually 6 component parts that go into building that leading edge and it is extremely light and strong. 

Mike

Offline Cody bishop

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2017, 07:47:55 PM »
Hi Cody

As far as I know both  Brodak and RSM utilizes a built up leading edge.  I am not disputing Walter about the option of a solid leading edge from RSM but I have never known Eric Rule to offer that and have built over 30 of Erics Ringmaster kits. 

I would say your best bet if you want to build a RIngmaster with a solid leading edge, buy the shaped edges from someone if you can find straight ones or find them at all and cut you own ribs and build the wing from scratch.  I have done this in the past.  However the way Eric Rule designed that leading edge you have nothing to worry about from a strength prospective.  There are actually 6 component parts that go into building that leading edge
and it is extremely light and strong. 
The way I fly its very important that I can repair it easily

Mike

Offline pat king

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2017, 08:13:25 PM »
My S-1B Ringmaster kit has a solid leading edge. (See Vendors Corner) The airplane is NOT OTS LEGAL. The airfoil is thicker and is not "Polywog" shape.

Pat
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2017, 10:16:07 PM »
I built and still have the Ringmaster that Eric kits.  The leading edge is not that hard to assemble/glue and is much stronger than a solid wood piece.  Over on the Brotherhood of the Ringmaster forum a search should show the leading edge I constructed for the S-1 Ringmaster.   Just takes time to make and is stronger than all the others. H^^
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Offline Steve Lotz

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2017, 11:17:12 AM »
When the RSM Rings first came out, they had the solid leading edges. I had to call them because one was bad in my kit and they replaced it.

Offline Allan Perret

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2017, 11:30:38 AM »
I like Pat Johnston's #85 plan/kit.  It uses Pat's +P airfoil and a 1/2" square LE which has to be shaped to round.  Building two of those right now, shaped the LE's about a week ago.  Took about 30 minutes per wing using handplane and flat bar sanders.
Allan Perret
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Offline Fredvon4

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2017, 12:10:54 PM »
I absolutely do NOT like the built up LE----for an old fart it is much to fiddly...for a one kit build

Pat Johnston's supplied Solid LE is good and lite....and very straight.... and he recommends hogging out each rib bay--- shallow in the center ---and progressively deeper out toward the tips...to reduce weight

Pat kits a S-1 solid LE and his bigger light weight Laser cut 526 and 576 RMs are very good laser cutting and wood selection

Real bottom line is...if you have to have a Ring Master S-1 in your hanger of air planes
Pat Johnston
Eric Rule
Pat King
Brodak

Pick one...NONE are bad kits.....

$130 for a original Sterling E-bay S-1 auction???......well trust me....
DON"T bother bidding...the wood is exactly as it was then...hard, heavy, and wrong grain most of the time
"A good scare teaches more than good advice"

Fred von Gortler IV

Offline Terrence Durrill

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2017, 01:25:48 PM »
I absolutely do NOT like the built up LE----for an old fart it is much to fiddly...for a one kit build

Pat Johnston's supplied Solid LE is good and lite....and very straight.... and he recommends hogging out each rib bay--- shallow in the center ---and progressively deeper out toward the tips...to reduce weight

Pat kits a S-1 solid LE and his bigger light weight Laser cut 526 and 576 RMs are very good laser cutting and wood selection

Real bottom line is...if you have to have a Ring Master S-1 in your hanger of air planes
Pat Johnston
Eric Rule
Pat King
Brodak

Pick one...NONE are bad kits.....

$130 for a original Sterling E-bay S-1 auction???......well trust me....
DON"T bother bidding...the wood is exactly as it was then...hard, heavy, and wrong grain most of the time


                 $130 dollars for an original Sterling S-1?   ...   I bought the three S-1 kits I have in my stash, at a hobby shop closeout for $5.95 each.  I may have to do some listing on Ebay.       #^       y1 y1

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: S-1 Ringmaster kit
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2017, 03:10:35 PM »
    SIG still sells the shaped, solid leading edge stock and trailing edge stock. The stuff they get in at Mark Twain Hobby generally looks pretty good and I have stocked up on several. You need at least 40 some odd inches of leading edge, so that means two pieces of 36" stock. I make the splice out at the out board wing tip and this helps with some tip weight. Then I mark the rib positions and cut the notches with two hack saw blades that have the pitch in the teeth pointing in opposite directions. I glue a strip of wood to each side to act as a depth gauge  and cut the trailing edge stock the same way. lots has been written on scratch building and presented on line. You can cut and frame one up in a weekend with some due diligence. If you watch all the wood selection carefully they can come out less than 30 ounces. I have a genuine, vintage Sterling kit built Ringmaster that I rescued off of Craig's List and it weighs about that and flies very well. These are easy and cheap to scratch build and will still fly well with a 3" bell crank, and a elevator horn at least an inch or so long, maybe holes that can go out to 1 1/4".
   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
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