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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Cody bishop on September 22, 2017, 04:38:58 PM
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Does anyone make a ringmaster kit with a solid leading edge i can't find someone who does
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Brodak maybe?
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Brodak is 3 piece LE. Really fun if you are into sanding and shaping. #^
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Hi Cody
As far as I know both Brodak and RSM utilizes a built up leading edge. I am not disputing Walter about the option of a solid leading edge from RSM but I have never known Eric Rule to offer that and have built over 30 of Erics Ringmaster kits.
I would say your best bet if you want to build a RIngmaster with a solid leading edge, buy the shaped edges from someone if you can find straight ones or find them at all and cut you own ribs and build the wing from scratch. I have done this in the past. However the way Eric Rule designed that leading edge you have nothing to worry about from a strength prospective. There are actually 6 component parts that go into building that leading edge and it is extremely light and strong.
Mike
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Hi Cody
As far as I know both Brodak and RSM utilizes a built up leading edge. I am not disputing Walter about the option of a solid leading edge from RSM but I have never known Eric Rule to offer that and have built over 30 of Erics Ringmaster kits.
I would say your best bet if you want to build a RIngmaster with a solid leading edge, buy the shaped edges from someone if you can find straight ones or find them at all and cut you own ribs and build the wing from scratch. I have done this in the past. However the way Eric Rule designed that leading edge you have nothing to worry about from a strength prospective. There are actually 6 component parts that go into building that leading edge
and it is extremely light and strong.
The way I fly its very important that I can repair it easily
Mike
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My S-1B Ringmaster kit has a solid leading edge. (See Vendors Corner) The airplane is NOT OTS LEGAL. The airfoil is thicker and is not "Polywog" shape.
Pat
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I built and still have the Ringmaster that Eric kits. The leading edge is not that hard to assemble/glue and is much stronger than a solid wood piece. Over on the Brotherhood of the Ringmaster forum a search should show the leading edge I constructed for the S-1 Ringmaster. Just takes time to make and is stronger than all the others. H^^
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When the RSM Rings first came out, they had the solid leading edges. I had to call them because one was bad in my kit and they replaced it.
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I like Pat Johnston's #85 plan/kit. It uses Pat's +P airfoil and a 1/2" square LE which has to be shaped to round. Building two of those right now, shaped the LE's about a week ago. Took about 30 minutes per wing using handplane and flat bar sanders.
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I absolutely do NOT like the built up LE----for an old fart it is much to fiddly...for a one kit build
Pat Johnston's supplied Solid LE is good and lite....and very straight.... and he recommends hogging out each rib bay--- shallow in the center ---and progressively deeper out toward the tips...to reduce weight
Pat kits a S-1 solid LE and his bigger light weight Laser cut 526 and 576 RMs are very good laser cutting and wood selection
Real bottom line is...if you have to have a Ring Master S-1 in your hanger of air planes
Pat Johnston
Eric Rule
Pat King
Brodak
Pick one...NONE are bad kits.....
$130 for a original Sterling E-bay S-1 auction???......well trust me....
DON"T bother bidding...the wood is exactly as it was then...hard, heavy, and wrong grain most of the time
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I absolutely do NOT like the built up LE----for an old fart it is much to fiddly...for a one kit build
Pat Johnston's supplied Solid LE is good and lite....and very straight.... and he recommends hogging out each rib bay--- shallow in the center ---and progressively deeper out toward the tips...to reduce weight
Pat kits a S-1 solid LE and his bigger light weight Laser cut 526 and 576 RMs are very good laser cutting and wood selection
Real bottom line is...if you have to have a Ring Master S-1 in your hanger of air planes
Pat Johnston
Eric Rule
Pat King
Brodak
Pick one...NONE are bad kits.....
$130 for a original Sterling E-bay S-1 auction???......well trust me....
DON"T bother bidding...the wood is exactly as it was then...hard, heavy, and wrong grain most of the time
$130 dollars for an original Sterling S-1? ... I bought the three S-1 kits I have in my stash, at a hobby shop closeout for $5.95 each. I may have to do some listing on Ebay. #^ y1 y1
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SIG still sells the shaped, solid leading edge stock and trailing edge stock. The stuff they get in at Mark Twain Hobby generally looks pretty good and I have stocked up on several. You need at least 40 some odd inches of leading edge, so that means two pieces of 36" stock. I make the splice out at the out board wing tip and this helps with some tip weight. Then I mark the rib positions and cut the notches with two hack saw blades that have the pitch in the teeth pointing in opposite directions. I glue a strip of wood to each side to act as a depth gauge and cut the trailing edge stock the same way. lots has been written on scratch building and presented on line. You can cut and frame one up in a weekend with some due diligence. If you watch all the wood selection carefully they can come out less than 30 ounces. I have a genuine, vintage Sterling kit built Ringmaster that I rescued off of Craig's List and it weighs about that and flies very well. These are easy and cheap to scratch build and will still fly well with a 3" bell crank, and a elevator horn at least an inch or so long, maybe holes that can go out to 1 1/4".
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee