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Author Topic: PA 40 UL settings  (Read 1895 times)

Offline Paul Pomposo

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PA 40 UL settings
« on: January 28, 2024, 05:42:25 PM »
I'm running a PA 40 UL and I am having a heck of a time getting this to run consistent. Currently it's charging in the maneuvers both inside and outside.

The pipe length is at 18"
the venturi is a #8 or .200
standard 1/8" tubing uniflow wedge tank
powermaster 10/18 fuel
Thunderbolt 4 stroke plug

what am I doing wrong?

Online Jim Hoffman

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2024, 06:04:38 PM »
My PA40 UL is a rear exhaust using a header as a muffler. I run a smaller Venturi, .170 dia. Although not mandatory, it runs better with a spigot in the Venturi.

Three blade Cox /Resinger CF prop. 11.5-4.5

Hope that is helpful

Offline Paul Pomposo

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2024, 06:18:54 PM »
I forgot to mention the spigot. yes, I'm using a 1/32" ID eyelet.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2024, 06:23:15 PM »
I forgot to mention the spigot. yes, I'm using a 1/32" ID eyelet.

    Ask Michael Sholtes, his ran better than any of the other PA40/PA40ULs that we had. It will definitely be much more prone to charging and excess speed variations than, say, a 40/46VF.

     Brett

Online EricV

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2024, 07:15:20 PM »
18" sounds way too long for a PA40 to me... You're basically running a muffler at that point and looking at only ~9000 rpm of regulation... What pitch/prop are you trying to turn? My PA40 likes to run around 10500 on 4.25" P x 11 3/8" L 2BL on 17 to 17 1/4" of pipe in a 47 ounce 40 size plane and is actually one of my favorite rigs to fly because it doesn't wear me out after 5 flights and regulates so well. It gets more regulated the harder you run it with less headroom to charge. The best runs are probably to be had in the 11k+ rpm range with a quarter inch less pitch, but I was happy to sacrifice a tiny bit of extra regulation for what I felt was the difference between a 2 seasons of heavy flying motor and a motor that would outlast me. Those extra few rpm really do seem to put a lot more wear on the motor. (just my opinion)

Hope that helps,
EricV

Online EricV

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2024, 07:18:19 PM »
Should have mentioned lap times at 5.25

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2024, 07:21:00 PM »
18" sounds way too long for a PA40 to me... You're basically running a muffler at that point and looking at only 9000 rpm of regulation..

  Depends on which surface he is placing the node and which pipe he is running.  I usually ran off the tail cone, but others seemed to prefer the first baffle.

     PA40s of either type seem to have much more tendency toward excess boost/brake, and Paul has been running OS46VFs forever, that's going from one end of the spectrum to the other!

      Brett

Online Dave_Trible

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2024, 07:24:13 PM »
I'd try backing off on the nitro.  Get a little 5% see what happens.   We have found this helps charging.  It may not act as bad under different weather conditions so having a couple fuel choices in the bank might be helpful.

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Offline Paul Pomposo

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2024, 07:57:55 PM »
I'm using one of Randy's current pipe and had it at 17.25" earlier today. The pulled it out to 18" due to it charging. The prop is a 11 x 4.25" 3 blade.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2024, 08:17:16 PM »
I'm using one of Randy's current pipe and had it at 17.25" earlier today. The pulled it out to 18" due to it charging. The prop is a 11 x 4.25" 3 blade.

      I am very hesitant to offer any input, I gave up on my (regular) PA40 in frustration for exactly the same reason, was going to withdraw from the 97 NATS. I put the 40VF in about an hour before qualification, did one test flight, back in business and smooth sailing.

   The setup I used here with limited success involved running nearly 12,000 rpm and I completely fried two pipes in Muncie trying to get it that fast at 1000 feet and 75% humidity.

       Brett

Offline Paul Pomposo

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2024, 08:35:39 PM »
The model with the PA 40 doesn’t have enough width to house a 46VF as a backup unless I want to cut off part of the engines lugs. I won’t do that again.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #11 on: January 28, 2024, 08:37:26 PM »
The model with the PA 40 doesn’t have enough width to house a 46VF as a backup unless I want to cut off part of the engines lugs. I won’t do that again.
\

   Understood. Michael Sholtes is your reference, his ran very nicely, probably the only one I have ever seen that worked around here.

     Brett

Offline Motorman

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #12 on: January 28, 2024, 08:45:18 PM »
       PA40s of either type seem to have much more tendency toward excess boost/brake, and Paul has been running OS46VFs forever, that's going from one end of the spectrum to the other!
      Brett

Would be interesting to measure the compression ratio of both engines.

MM 8)

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2024, 09:14:27 PM »
Would be interesting to measure the compression ratio of both engines.

MM 8)

   As delivered, the VF is much higher, as I recall. But we had the compression all over the place from too high to too low, and ran both heads and if you tried to reduce the compression to manage the charging, the power went away faster than the charging. 

    The big differences are that the VF exhaust timing was 144 degrees with a lot of blowdown, and the PA (40 and 61/65) is 136 with less blowdown, the intake timing is much longer on the VF, and that the thermal mass of the VF is much higher.

   The 40 and 46VF both have silky-smooth 4-2 breaks (although you don't want the 40 running across it) and generally run about 1000 rpm faster, the PA is at least "very strong" across the break at sea level in dry air. and very asymmetrical, breaking hard on outside corners. The 40 is not powerful enough to do the trick we did with the 61, that is, running the compression and nitro way up to keep it in a constant 4-stroke. The biggest improvement we ever made to the PA61 was the spigot venturi, it was so asymmetrical I was going to go back to the 40VF.

     By the way, knowing what I have learned since 1997, I would expect the PA40 or 40UL to be much more manageable with a Bolly or some other semi-symmetrical airfoil prop or at most a flat-back Eather, as compared to the Eather UC props. Igors drag bucket effect might be beneficial on a VF or RO-Jett "brett" version but it just makes the excess break on the PA even more excessive.

     Brett
« Last Edit: January 28, 2024, 09:45:20 PM by Brett Buck »

Online Doug Moisuk

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #14 on: January 28, 2024, 10:14:18 PM »
What’s Charging? Not seen that term before.

On my Vector ARF.
I’m running Randy’s standard needle and venture. 18” pipe length, plug to first joint of straight section. 10% nitro, 10% caster 12% Klotz. Claptrap filter. Merlin plug.  I think the same prop as you. On the ground 8200-8400 rpm, 5.2-5.4 lap time. Runs like a jewel.
Doug Moisuk
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #15 on: January 28, 2024, 11:02:55 PM »
What’s Charging? Not seen that term before.

    Excess power boosts in the corners and when it "breaks".

Quote
On my Vector ARF.
I’m running Randy’s standard needle and venture. 18” pipe length, plug to first joint of straight section. 10% nitro, 10% caster 12% Klotz. Claptrap filter. Merlin plug.  I think the same prop as you. On the ground 8200-8400 rpm, 5.2-5.4 lap time. Runs like a jewel.

     8400 RPM? with 4 1/4" of pitch?  Wow! It must unload a tremendous amount.

      Brett

Offline Paul Pomposo

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #16 on: January 28, 2024, 11:10:54 PM »
8,400 rpm might work on very short lines.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #17 on: January 28, 2024, 11:42:15 PM »
8,400 rpm might work on very short lines.

  I assume you are launching at around 95-9800 or so?

    Brett

Offline Reptoid

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #18 on: January 29, 2024, 01:52:15 PM »
A .200" diameter true venturi is on the large side of the range for a .40 and a smaller one would definitely mellow the break
Regards,
       Don
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Offline Mike Scholtes

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #19 on: January 29, 2024, 02:24:32 PM »
I think the secret sauce for why my PA40UL performs so well is the Bolly 3-blade 11-4 narrow blade prop. The motor is a RE. I use a home brew fuel that is 10-20, with 80 or 90% of the oil Klotz synthetic. I launch in the 9500-9800 range, as suggested above. My ship is relatively small, about 605 inches, a Dee Rice Oriental Plus. I think using Powermaster may be too much castor. I get very little break and it is symmetrical. I am using 65' .018 lines, which is probably overkill but exhibits less stretch than .015. This is on the California coast, close to sea level and without extremes in temp. Unfortunately the Bolly prop is no longer available but Randy Smith has what he calls a clone of that prop. I will check the pipe length setting when get home from work

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #20 on: January 29, 2024, 02:26:34 PM »
A .200" diameter true venturi is on the large side of the range for a .40 and a smaller one would definitely mellow the break

   It's .200 with a spigot, but yes, that's pretty big. The problem we always had was that we could tame the charging but not without killing the power. The 61 was better because even if you tamed it, there was enough left over to still be competitive, even more so with the 75.

   The compare/contrast is whether, when you got it tamed down enough, it was better than the alternative. For regular airplanes, to me, the answer is clear, the alternative engine (40VF for a PA40 and Jett 61 for a PA61) was a better option. Paul's issue is that he can't fit a 40VF in the airplane, so it's a PA40UL or something else of lesser performance, like a AeroTiger 36/Magnum 36 with a goofy header.

   Not to repeat myself, but Michael Sholtes PA40UL, however it was set up, is by far the best one I have flown around here, so I would get his setup as a starting point. I note that what works for people in the midwest might not work at sea level, and we have *lots* of examples of that.

           Brett

Offline Derek Barry

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2024, 09:37:16 AM »
It has been my experience that the PAs most prone to surging are the ones that people mess with. Changing from the stock venturi to the spigot being the most prominent modification. 

The engines run perfectly fine stock. I have run  every single PA engine, and the AeroTiger with great success, by leaving them.the hell alone. The PA65 is hands down the best stunt engine ever designed, and I put it up against the best alternatives on a yearly basis.  I have flown the most winning PA75 in history, back to back with my 65 and there is virtually no difference in performance. Mine may be a little more consistent... 😉

Brett has the only RoJett run that I like. I'm pretty sure he pulled the guts out and put PA parts in there.

Derek


Online Doug Moisuk

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2024, 09:56:13 AM »
    Excess power boosts in the corners and when it "breaks".

     8400 RPM? with 4 1/4" of pitch?  Wow! It must unload a tremendous amount.

      Brett

Forgot to add 64’ .015 lines.
Doug Moisuk
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2024, 10:48:40 AM »
It has been my experience that the PAs most prone to surging are the ones that people mess with. Changing from the stock venturi to the spigot being the most prominent modification.

   What makes you think we didn't try that? Give us at least a little credit. We tried running it stock for a long time.

Quote
Brett has the only RoJett run that I like. I'm pretty sure he pulled the guts out and put PA parts in there.

     Well, thanks, sort of! I didn't have the heart to tell you that this was far and away the weakest of the three engines I currently have.  Key feature is that *it runs almost exactly the same way at home in all conditions*, 1000 foot Muncie,  2200 foot Tucson, just change nitro. I would add that the *sound* it makes on YS 20/20 is absolutely indescribable.

   I like the way #2 runs slightly better than #1 (2006 NATs), and we cannot figure what is going on with #3 (that I got from PTG in about 2011), it appears to be cursed even after I had the liner replaced with a copy of #2.

   I note that the "stock" version of the RO-Jett with 136 degree exhaust timing is much more chargy/4-2 breaky than the 140 or 144 degree version, and the cast case version with a 136 degree liner runs a lot like the PA, with the same sort of inside/outside thing going on. So the one that actually works like mine is the 140 or 144 degree bar-stock version.

   Brett

   

Offline Derek Barry

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #24 on: January 30, 2024, 11:46:19 AM »
   What makes you think we didn't try that? Give us at least a little credit. We tried running it stock for a long time.

   

   Brett

I know you did.

For the average pilot, stock is probably the preferred setup.  Simple and consistent. 

You and Dave were trying to run smaller props than recommended for the size of engine you were using.  David uses the same prop on his 75 that I run on my 65. I tried a 13" 3 blade on a 75 and the engine is far too strong for that (unless it was undercambered, which I do not like). So, I understand what you guys were trying to accomplish. Dave's record says you were successful, but I have seen what happens when that setup goes sideways. He gets the surging just like the author of this thread is describing. It makes for very exciting square eights and clovers...


Derek

Offline Derek Barry

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #25 on: January 30, 2024, 12:09:49 PM »
   What makes you think we didn't try that? Give us at least a little credit. We tried running it stock for a long time.

     Well, thanks, sort of! I didn't have the heart to tell you that this was far and away the weakest of the three engines I currently have.  Key feature is that *it runs almost exactly the same way at home in all conditions*, 1000 foot Muncie,  2200 foot Tucson, just change nitro. I would add that the *sound* it makes on YS 20/20 is absolutely indescribable.

   I like the way #2 runs slightly better than #1 (2006 NATs), and we cannot figure what is going on with #3 (that I got from PTG in about 2011), it appears to be cursed even after I had the liner replaced with a copy of #2.

   I note that the "stock" version of the RO-Jett with 136 degree exhaust timing is much more chargy/4-2 breaky than the 140 or 144 degree version, and the cast case version with a 136 degree liner runs a lot like the PA, with the same sort of inside/outside thing going on. So the one that actually works like mine is the 140 or 144 degree bar-stock version.

   Brett

   

  I mainly came on here to bust your balls. It's been a pretty boring winter.

  I joke with David that you and he spent a whole lot of time and effort to get a run almost as good as mine. 😉

  In all fairness, I just stumbled into something that worked really well for me early on and never changed. I can't remember how much fuel I need from one season to the next, so I need stuff to be simple and reliable. 

Derek

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #26 on: January 30, 2024, 02:43:20 PM »
You and Dave were trying to run smaller props than recommended for the size of engine you were using.  David uses the same prop on his 75 that I run on my 65. I tried a 13" 3 blade on a 75 and the engine is far too strong for that (unless it was undercambered, which I do not like).

  Yes, the undercamber props were just what we needed for the 40/46VF but the drag bucket effect that Igor describes is not what you need for a PA. The US props work OK on the Jett, but it's easier to drop down on the oil content to get a similar effect.

   BTW, I have run as much as a 13.5-3.75 on the RO-Jett, too, and it had no problem as far as the engine is concerned. Getting it around a corner was another story. I would only ever consider running that if the temperatures are above 105 and dead calm. We do get that from time to time, but rarely enough that I don't even carry that one around with me. Might be useful at an August Nationals, come to think of it, because I might expect it to be hot, and the deadest air I ever saw was about 100 degrees at a Team Trials in late August.

     Brett

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #27 on: January 30, 2024, 02:51:09 PM »

  I joke with David that you and he spent a whole lot of time and effort to get a run almost as good as mine. 😉


  I think the bit you may not fully appreciate is that that engines can run *much differently* here than you are used to. We haven't just tested a particular setup, we had complete systems with absolutely no changes that worked great in the midwest that that were hopeless here. This long predates piped engines or PAs, it goes all the way back to Ted's "Imitation" article - where one of the goals was to test the "schneurle of the month" engines. That turned out to be hopeless due to the inside/outside effect we frequently get.

     Brett

Offline Lauri Malila

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #28 on: January 30, 2024, 11:38:53 PM »
Quote from: Brett  That turned out to be hopeless due to the inside/outside effect we frequently get.
[/quote

You should really try another engine mounting position, try cylinder 45 degrees down. That would solve many issues.
That, and some work with combustion chamber. L

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #29 on: January 31, 2024, 12:06:20 AM »
You should really try another engine mounting position, try cylinder 45 degrees down. That would solve many issues.
That, and some work with combustion chamber. L

     Ted was trying that in the aforementioned Imitation article (1978). He got a 40FSR to run symmetrically by rotating it on his RC mount.

     0 (straight down as normal), rich on insides and screaming lean on insides.
     45 degrees, lean on insides and rich on outsides.
     22.5 degrees = just right.

     So, great, he solved it, right?  He got a different engine - 22.5 didn't work any more, it needed to be 45. So much for that plan, how you do build a Concours contender that will allow you to turn the engine whichever way it needs?

      I note, although he didn't try it, if he had taken it to Muncie, based on very extensive experience, it may have worked better at 0, or maybe not even care which way it was mounted.

   We pick the engine and setups that work symmetrically here, and if it works here and it will almost always work anywhere else, because it's much less demanding in the Midwest, and all of these issues are greatly reduced. 

       Brett


 

Offline Matt Colan

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #30 on: January 31, 2024, 07:22:08 AM »

   We pick the engine and setups that work symmetrically here, and if it works here and it will almost always work anywhere else, because it's much less demanding in the Midwest, and all of these issues are greatly reduced. 

       Brett

What field elevation do you guys fly at? What’s the difference in the conditions out west vs Texas vs Midwest vs southeast?

As far as run asymmetry goes, the 75 (3 port and complete with Dave’s setup and  NVA I’m still “renting” from him) I’ve run exclusively since 2016 always broke harder on outsides even though lap times were the same. It wasn’t until I hooked it up to pipe pressure last year that made the tank shim so out of whack that I needed to shim it a full 1/16”. Now it runs *slightly* richer on outside rounds but the break during the horizontal 8s and square 8s is perfect. I don’t have enough time on my other two to know if it’s just an issue with that particular motor or the other 75s.

My 61 was one of the most idiot proof setups I found when I put it in Dracula. I stuck the biggest Venturi I had in it (I would have to check to see what it is), set the pipe to 17.75” and stuck a 12.5” Bolly three blade on it. Went flying, shimmed the tank to make the run even and it runs in a very high pitched 4 cycle, hard pipe rattle everywhere it goes and a perfectly even run. I do plan to test it in the world championship plane and see if there’s any advantage to be had by running the smaller prop and the cornering ability vs the larger props the 75 requires
Matt Colan

Offline Lauri Malila

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #31 on: January 31, 2024, 02:44:48 PM »
     Ted was trying that in the aforementioned Imitation article (1978). He got a 40FSR to run symmetrically by rotating it on his RC mount.

     0 (straight down as normal), rich on insides and screaming lean on insides.
     45 degrees, lean on insides and rich on outsides.
     22.5 degrees = just right.

     So, great, he solved it, right?  He got a different engine - 22.5 didn't work any more, it needed to be 45. So much for that plan, how you do build a Concours contender that will allow you to turn the engine whichever way it needs?

      I note, although he didn't try it, if he had taken it to Muncie, based on very extensive experience, it may have worked better at 0, or maybe not even care which way it was mounted.

   We pick the engine and setups that work symmetrically here, and if it works here and it will almost always work anywhere else, because it's much less demanding in the Midwest, and all of these issues are greatly reduced. 

       Brett


 

Yep, that's nothing new. There is differences between engines.
I don't understand your point about concours. Is it about workmanship or is it some imaginary scale contest?
Another thing is, that it's not necessarily for the same reasons, if you talk about asymmetry and surging during/after manoeuvres. One factor is oil accumulation in carter, that one can often be improved with correct positioning of engine. Another thing is the other asymmetry that is worst when cylinder is pointing down. That is clearly the G-forces affecting the ballistics of scavenging.
But the surging after/during load, it can also be a thermal issue. A stunt engine operates so far from the stoichiometric ideal, that it is very easy to push the process out of balance. In the most common case, the over-rich mixture just starts burning more when the engine heats up under load, and it takes a while till it goes back to balance again. Kind of a hysteresis.
I saw that problem often when I was testing different squish band heads. If you want to minimise the problem, you must always aim for the smallest (mechanically) possible squish clearance. But that's a lot of work as every change in head volume needs a new head made.
I have much better thermal stability with a toroidal combustion chamber, with basically no squish. I copied the first ones from Yuriy Yatsenko's work, and continued development from them. I think it would be worth testing in PA's too, if you cannot get rid of certain problems by varying the usual parameters. L

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #32 on: January 31, 2024, 05:31:13 PM »
Yep, that's nothing new. There is differences between engines.
I don't understand your point about concours. Is it about workmanship or is it some imaginary scale contest?

    Appearance counts in the score. We are trying to win. -3 to -5 points will almost always bounce you out of the finals. We prefer it that way.


Quote
I think it would be worth testing in PA's too, if you cannot get rid of certain problems by varying the usual parameters. L

   I found another solution, run engines that don't have this problem in any orientation.

       Brett

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #33 on: January 31, 2024, 05:51:58 PM »
What field elevation do you guys fly at? What’s the difference in the conditions out west vs Texas vs Midwest vs southeast?

    I don't know. But we have taken systems (not just the same settings, literally the same components with no changes to anything) that worked fine in the Southeast/Midwest, and were hopeless here.  Our elevations at various sites, anywhere from 3 feet to maybe 100, typically dry. Also note that we have no real problem going from 50 degrees/fog to 105-110 and 15% humidity, don't even change the nitro.

    Typical for inverted-mount schneurle engines, shim the tank to get equal upright/inverted speeds. In the round 8, it goes slightly rich in the inside, lean on outside, second time through the inside, even richer, second time through the outsides, screeching lean. Shim the tank to try to fix it, maybe 3/8", upright times 5.0 and inverted 5.8 to 6, get to the round 8, still goes rich on insides, still goes lean on outsides. That is hopeless.




Quote
As far as run asymmetry goes, the 75 (3 port and complete with Dave’s setup and  NVA I’m still “renting” from him) I’ve run exclusively since 2016 always broke harder on outsides even though lap times were the same. It wasn’t until I hooked it up to pipe pressure last year that made the tank shim so out of whack that I needed to shim it a full 1/16”. Now it runs *slightly* richer on outside rounds but the break during the horizontal 8s and square 8s is perfect. I don’t have enough time on my other two to know if it’s just an issue with that particular motor or the other 75s.

      Yes, that's a classic symptom. The other is to run nicely until you turn toward the ground on the outside part of the square 8, then have it break hard lean and pile-drive you into the ground. That was death with the PA40, and even in Muncie, I heard the same thing repeatedly. The 61 is much less prone to it, once we got the spigot venturi, would only do it about 5% of the time. Stock venturi, drilled out, "larger but curved", big problem.

     David's engine occasionally briefly blips in to a 2-stroke on the top of the inside loop on the square 8. If yours is the one I think, that's the one that started going lean through the intersection at the 2009 TT, which led to an engine swap between qualifying and the finals and an after-dark test flight.

    I also note that we may have found another thing to try that seemed to remove almost all of these issues in the few flights we have had. No unexpected blips anywhere on the 75, as good as the original 2-port engine, and *even steadier* on the Jett

     
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My 61 was one of the most idiot proof setups I found when I put it in Dracula. I stuck the biggest Venturi I had in it (I would have to check to see what it is), set the pipe to 17.75” and stuck a 12.5” Bolly three blade on it. Went flying, shimmed the tank to make the run even and it runs in a very high pitched 4 cycle, hard pipe rattle everywhere it goes and a perfectly even run. I do plan to test it in the world championship plane and see if there’s any advantage to be had by running the smaller prop and the cornering ability vs the larger props the 75 requires

       I would at least look at trying the smaller prop on the 75. That prop is nowhere near the max, it's already pretty light load, so slightly lighter might not make any difference. It also smooths out the run by allowing you to run deeper in a 4-stroke and reducing the feedback to the engine. Derek's point earlier is on point, no one said you had to have a 75.

  Same thing for me - I run the 12.5-3.75 and the engine has no problem spinning the same prop you are running. It took two hands to get it out of level flight, however.

     Brett

Offline Doug Moon

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #34 on: February 02, 2024, 04:40:09 PM »
   
    I also note that we may have found another thing to try that seemed to remove almost all of these issues in the few flights we have had. No unexpected blips anywhere on the 75, as good as the original 2-port engine, and *even steadier* on the Jett

           
     Brett

What is this other thing...??
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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #35 on: February 02, 2024, 04:41:05 PM »
I'm curious if any of this talk has helped the original author with his run.
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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #36 on: February 02, 2024, 05:00:25 PM »
I'm running a PA 40 UL and I am having a heck of a time getting this to run consistent. Currently it's charging in the maneuvers both inside and outside.

The pipe length is at 18"
the venturi is a #8 or .200
standard 1/8" tubing uniflow wedge tank
powermaster 10/18 fuel
Thunderbolt 4 stroke plug

I'm using one of Randy's current pipe and had it at 17.25" earlier today. The pulled it out to 18" due to it charging. The prop is a 11 x 4.25" 3 blade.

what am I doing wrong?


I wouldn't say you are doing anything wrong but something is way out of whack.  I would point at the ventruri. I know you have a spigot in it but #8/.200 is still a huge hole for the motor. I run a #9 on my 75. I have run PA 65 from 2-13 with spigots and without with filters without etc. Once you get out of the standard range that Randy sends it with you kind have to get a little creative to get it all working. When I was running 2 and 4 ventruris in the 65 I removed about half the head shims, pipe was at 17 3/8" on 20% nitro 20% oil on a 3.5" 11 7/8" 4 blade with take off rpm at 10,500 it would grind around nicely at 5.7 lap time. It would also eat the front bearing by the end of the season. This is very outside of the parameters that Randy would setup the motor when he sold it to me. It took alot of changes to get it to work.

Some questions I ask below should help drive some of the answers.
Why would you run such a larger venturi?
What is making you do that? 
What is the stock size venturi?
How did the engine run in its stock configuration?
What plane and how heavy is it?



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Offline Paul Pomposo

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #37 on: February 02, 2024, 08:06:01 PM »
It’s been 15 years since I left ran the engine. It was fine back then, but I don’t recall if I enlarged venturi. I do agree a smaller Venturi would be ideal, such as .175” to start. I ordered a replacement from Randy.

The model is a full body Imitation and at 59 oz.

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #38 on: February 03, 2024, 10:04:06 AM »
It’s been 15 years since I left ran the engine. It was fine back then, but I don’t recall if I enlarged venturi. I do agree a smaller Venturi would be ideal, such as .175” to start. I ordered a replacement from Randy.

The model is a full body Imitation and at 59 oz.

Once you get that smaller venturi and get it in the plane you "should" have a better starting point.

15 years sitting could have a few bad spots on the bearings.
Plus that's a pretty good sizes plane for that motor. I have seen the PA40UL use in a G Nobler with great success and that's way way smaller.

With the smaller venturi in there you may want to try going to a lower pitched prop get the rpms up and trap the motor so to speak in a higher range so it can run up.  Set the pipe accordingly.

As Dave Trible said you can also go down in nitro so the bursts aren't as hard. I would think that would be a move made after you get the run more steady and consistent overall.

Let us know how it goes. 
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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #39 on: February 03, 2024, 06:59:47 PM »
It will be interesting using less nitro but it makes sense.  During the warm season, I would normally up the nitro. In the way of the props, I will definitely experiment with less pitch. I have a Bill Lee 11 x 4 3 blade but I look for something with less pitch.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #40 on: February 03, 2024, 09:57:13 PM »
What is this other thing...??


   Still unproven, still looking good on the 75, it may be causing an issue on the Jett. If it works out, I promise to tell everyone, but after some painful experiences, I don't want to give half-baked recommendations.

    Brett

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Re: PA 40 UL settings
« Reply #41 on: February 04, 2024, 09:57:41 AM »

   Still unproven, still looking good on the 75, it may be causing an issue on the Jett. If it works out, I promise to tell everyone, but after some painful experiences, I don't want to give half-baked recommendations.

    Brett

That makes sense. I will be watching for it for sure.

Thank you
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