Nobler ARF Wing Structure ??

[Dan McEntee]

   I have two Nobler ARF's that I am working with, and after taping tip weight to the outboard wing tip to see what is required, I want to install a tip weight box, or may even use the old tube style through the leading edge. I have never had the covering off of one of these, so who knows what the wing structure is like out at the tip rib? Id it a sheet main spare? I may just build a small box externally, cut away some leading edge sheeting and gue it in against the spat and tip rib iif that is the case, or insert a tube through the leading edge that stops against the spar and make it big enough to hold up to an ounce of lead shot, though I don'tthink I'll been that much, only have a little over 1/2 ounce on it so far.
  Have a safe Independence Day Holiday!!!
    Dan McEntee

[wwwarbird]

 Dan-O, you're thinking way too hard on this one. It's an ARF Nobler, not your front row World Beater. Just peel the covering off the tip and see what you've got. Or, just wait until it starts peeling off on it's own, it shouldn't take too long. 

 FWIW I looked back at old photos of a couple of my bashed Nobler projects but found nothing showing the tips before I'd cut them off.

[Dan McEntee]

Dan-O, you're thinking way too hard on this one. It's an ARF Nobler, not your front row World Beater. Just peel the covering off the tip and see what you've got. Or, just wait until it starts peeling off on it's own, it shouldn't take too long. 

 FWIW I looked back at old photos of a couple of my bashed Nobler projects but found nothing showing the tips before I'd cut them off.

   I finally started poking around with a pin and an exacto knife, picked a spot and cut a small hole, then enlarged it once I saw what I had to work with. I wanted to be un against the last tip rib and in front of and against the spar or spars. Turns out it has an upper and lower spar, I was expecting maybe a full depth sheet spar. I quick built a small box, made a lid that was sanded to conform to the airfoil, and re-enforced with a piece of 1/64" ply and fitted into place. I hardened everything with a quick coat of thin CA, sanded smooth again, then covered with matching trim monokote.  I put the weight inside that I had taped to the wing tip, and just covered it with some clear tape. Quick and dirty but still sorta presentable. I have the airplane pretty much trimmed out and flying well, so I'm gonna gussy it up a bit with some easy trim and the stock decals. One had a warped rudder that was making take offs touchy until I finally saw it and wracked it around where it should be. The previous builder put it where it belonged buy didn't check it out and correct it before gluing it in, but all is OK now. Both of these were assembled by other people, one was Gary Hajek and it only took me almost 20 years to get around to squaring it away. the other was from the state of a club member. Both had Morris aftermarket controls already installed. One has a OS .35S in it just because I like them and haven't has a model with one in it since a Nobler I built 30 years ago and lost in a crash in my Intermediate days. The other one has a Brodak .40. As they sit right now they both fly pretty well, turn nicely. one has 1/4 ounce tail weight that may com off when I do the tip weight box for that one. These will just be something to throw in the car to sport fly or fly in Classic at a contest if I ever get around to getting to some contests again. One thing I'm adding to both is some 3/8" thick balsa filler between the engine mounts in the tank compartment to solidify things up there. Just really no structure in these things. The previous owners added gussets to the front end but they don't do nearly enough good. The tank was another question mark. These ARF Noblers came with a couple different tanks that were absolutely useless. The fuselage is only 1 3/4" between the sides, so I made a dummy block tank form as big as I could get into the compartment and made the tanks as big as I could make them and they came in at 4 1/4 ounces I think for capacity. That's plenty for the OS.35, but the Brodak is pretty thirsty and I had to result to using the panty hose trick to choke the intake down a bit. The other thing that is a head scratcher is whop at Great Planes decided that these things needed the giant wheel that came with them??  They look kind of  dorky and probably will get replaced with some thinner 2" wheel and maybe some wheel pants down the line. The other thing in the cowling, which can be dealt with, but I wish George had used a 2" spinner to make it easier to get a wider variety of props underneath it. 1 3/4" plastic spinners just don't work with a lot of props, and getting aluminum spinners easily is starting to get harder these days!! But the results for both of them are satisfying enough for now.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

[Ken Culbertson]

   I finally started poking around with a pin and an x-acto knife, picked a spot and cut a small hole, then enlarged it once I saw what I had to work with.

Did mine pretty much the same way.  Interestingly mine came with zero tip weight and I was in such a rush to get into the air after 35 years in the wilderness that I flew it that way.  Not pretty but it survived intact, however my ego took a severe beating since that flight was at a contest.  Lesson - never go to a contest after 35 years off with an unflown plane.

Ken

[Rick Campbell]

My Noblarf. Flew it stock for a while, then rebuilt the nose from the canopy forward and added adjustable stuff, too. Dope on the fuse, 'Kote on the wing and stab. Brodak .40. Someone in New England is STILL flying this one. I've another new in the box. That one will get Electrickery power.