Your mockup looks interesting. I tend to try and stay around 1-1, but the design has a lot to do with it, with control surface areas, etc.
But my main comment is about your last post...We CAN build balsa airplanes that light, and it's not that hard. I'm not one to spend megabucks on balsa... 6 to 8lb wood is the norm for my shop... Yet, I still haven't had a 60 size pipe ship over 67 ounces come out of my shop yet with most coming out much lower in the low 60's.
For example: My last Nat's build, Katana, running a PA .75, 8 Oz metal tank and Aero pipe, the big Mejlik 75 prop 13.5" 3B (that's a big chunky prop!), carbon fuse landing gear, (with balsa wheel pants!) metal 2" spinner, using Klass Kote Epoxy paint and House Of Kolor Urethane clear was 64 Oz on the official Muncie scale said the tape on my wing tip which agreed with my digital home scale.
That wasn't because I skimped on finish either, as Katana sat on the 17 point row, my best Nat's appearance yet. And my Katana isn't exactly stock, with a slightly longer nose moment and slightly larger stab & tail moment, anticipating for the PA75, I cheated it up a bit to make things work the way I thought they should, so it's actually larger than a standard Katana. Turned out to be a good choice. I could easily knock that down to closer to 60 Oz dropping the plane down to a PA .65, with the smaller tank/pipe/prop/shorter LG/ etc etc.
If I went carbon fuel tank, carbon spinner, I could shave another couple ounces off of that, but then risk running nose weight. I usually adjust the nose and tail moment accordingly ahead of time depending on what I plan to run, so knowing your goals ahead of time and sticking to the plan is important. So, don't sell balsa home builds short, you can build them light, almost too light if there is such a thing. I chose to keep mine in its current config at 64 Oz, as I think anything lighter might actually hurt performance and trim, I like it just fine as it is.
Some basic suggestions/rules of thumb I try to stick to: Don't over-engineer, and don't get cute wasting time drilling holes either. Don't' skimp on structure on the front end, or you end up adding nose weight anyway, which adds no strength... go easy on epoxies, always wipe away excess glues, us CA where you can, and sand and hollow like crazy... Keep your fillets small. Fill with dope, not primer. Primer is heavy. I switched to white Klass Kote epoxy primer, as I use it as a blocking coat more than a filler. Oh, and don't be "One with the Gun" when you paint the thing... you don't need refrigerator white as a base coat, or it will weigh as much as one. LOL! Reverse mask your paint job, don't add colors on top of colors, that adds weight too. That's pretty much my mind set and it seems to work for even a has-been duffer like me.
You can out-build those buy and fly Sharks, don't let them get inside your head. You got this Dave! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
EricV
They are very light for their size. I hear around 60 ounces for some. Nats tail of the tape says more like 63-64. We SHOULD be able to build balsa airplanes this light but making them stand up to grass fields can be tough. One of the Mongolian Sharks shed it's landing gear on the new smooth pavement of the LPad during practice. Basically it was an aluminum strut just glued to balsa ribs! I looked inside one of Orestes older IC Sharks fuselages long ago and was a very thin balsa with a thin veil of carbon outside. The Canadian StarLight airplane uses a thin foam-maybe almost 1/16" thick with either carbon or glass bonded outside. Obviously vacuum bagged. The newer Sharks might be similar.
Dave