Motor mount question

[Dennis Toth]

Guys,
I have to make up a special motor mount that holds the motor about 1/2" above the bottom of tank (rear intake). My question is solid one piece or take the regular 3/8 x 1/2 and glue it on the top of a separate piece of 3/8 x 3/8. I like the one piece but only have a piece of 3/8 x 1" walnut not maple. Any problem with using the walnut?

Best,    DennisT

[FLOYD CARTER]

Walnut is classed as a hardwood, but it really isn't very hard.  Maple is the best.  You might even opt for aluminum!  Small pieces would not be too heavy.

[Dan McEntee]

   If you have the maple motor mount stock in the correct size, I would not hesitate to epoxy a stand off for the engine to mount on. I would score the maple surfaces to give more area for the epoxy to grip to, then glue under pressure until cured. Then drill your mounting holes. Once the engine is mounted and torqued down, where is it going to go?
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Istvan Travnik]

My answer / suggestion can be question eventually, since I live in Europe, not in the States.
Well, all very essential/critical parts (e.g. motor mount) are made by us exclusively of hornbeam.
As I observed it is more hard and less porous than maple or beech. Walnut is nice for furniture but not a modelling material imho: too porous.
What do you think?

[frank williams]

I wouldn't worry about gluing on a separate riser piece.  It won't just be glued, but bolted on as well.  The motor bolts will be holding it all together, if I picture correctly what you are doing.

[Air Ministry .]

Depending on the vertical C.G . , room aft for tank , ply doublers etc etc ,

Whittling the bearers down to 1/8 wide , aft of the firewall , isnt unusual . Even on front induction layouts .

With the ' crutch ' layed ON TOP of the sides & doublers , the cavity can be a full two inch width .

Used this on the HP 40 R.P.R. in the Folkerts , and will again in the GOON .

sent a picture in the P. M. . to you .