Lubricin N-1

[Al Burczycki]

Hi Gang,

I'm looking for a source of Lubricin N-1 as I used the last I had on my last batch of fuel.  It used to be available from Sig, but no more. I've checked the manufacturers site (Rutherford Chems.) but they don't list retailers; or I wasn't able to get to the right place. I could use a quart or so and would appreciate any help in finding a retailer.

Al Burczycki

[W.D. Roland]

Hi Al
Have not hear that stuff mentioned in many years. excellent top end stuff.

Asked and looked for several years back and seemed no one ever heard of it.



Post or send me a link to it on MFG site and will see if one of the industrial supplies I deal with will obtain for us.


David

[Jim Kraft]

I Googled it, and there are several sources, but it is only available in 430lb drums.

[Wayne J. Buran]

Google Lubricin N1 product samples or such. Maybe somthing will show up.
Wayne

[Steve Helmick]

I did a search on Stunthanger, as I'd remembered seeing coments on Lubricin in the past. All were not complimentary, especially Randy Smith's.

As I see it, if you run 5% or more synthetic oil, you really don't need to add any detergent (Lubricin) additive, because the synth does that quite well.     Steve

[Peter Nevai]

Lubricin is a modified castor oil. Agents added to reduce the acidity and build up of varnish. Not really needed with the new quality synthetic / castor blend fuels anymore.

[W.D. Roland]

I run 100% Castor as oil in my fuel....Fox Super, Dukes, Missile Mist.

Engines balky on syn got happy on Castor.

[Al Burczycki]

Thanks for all the cogent comments.  I spent about a half hour on the "Koltz" web site, and it would seem their claims of increased lubricity and decreased ash formation in their formulations cover my concerns. In particular, Their "Benoil" castor blend claims to have lubricity and detergent enhancers added; probably a Lubricin like additive. My mix for years has been 7% Castor, 14% Klotz and 2% Lubricin. My next batch will be 14% Klotz, and 8% Benoil in place of the raw castor oil I have been using. I'll give an extended use report at a later date.
Again, thanks to all,  Al B.

[W.D. Roland]

Al
Please report you finding with the Klotz.

My experience in the 70s showed engines that cool from massive amounts of Alcohol consumption do not varnish with Castor. Fast Combat/Fast Rat.
Pressure cowled/Ducted cooled engines seem to not varnish.
Exposed and Poorly cowled/ducting or other wise over heated engines form varnish---This varnish is a good thing.

Take a look here:
http://www.go-cl.se/castor.html


Parts of article:

[[[(CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2CH=CH(CH2)7COO)3(OC)3H5 ], which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position. As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Another look at the molecule. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F (343 deg C). Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant!]]]]

[[[Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces. It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F (229 deg C), but its fire point is about 840 degrees F (449 deg C)! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F (176-204 deg C)and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F (288 deg C), or slightly higher. Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn in the combustion chamber if you get off too lean. Castor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design.

Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons. So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity. Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants!]]]]

[Clancy Arnold]

Thanks David
Your post convinced me that I made the right choice of a Klotz / Castor blend in stead of all Klotz synthetic oil for my OS FS91 engines.
Clancy