Lead outs at bell crank

[RC Storick]

How I wrap leaouts

[Clint Ormosen]

"This video is private"

[RC Storick]

"This video is private"

fixed

[John Stiles]

Nice video, I am fixing to do a set of leadouts today if my supplies arrive like they should. Its been raining for a couple days now so I can't paint or do my farm work. I'm happy you did this to refresh my mind on the proper procedure.

[Brett Buck]

How I wrap leaouts

  That will work OK, but I usually attach the leadouts to the teardrop first with my usually line-tying jig, then assemble the bearing/teardrop/screw afterwards.

     Brett

[Dick Pacini]

Where do you get the teardrops?

[RC Storick]

  That will work OK, but I usually attach the leadouts to the teardrop first with my usually line-tying jig, then assemble the bearing/teardrop/screw afterwards.

     Brett

This was just the proper procedure of wrapping. I don't have a holding fixture. I could have use the Jim Lee clothes pin but not everyone has that.

[Randy Powell]

>>Where do you get the teardrops?

I make them from PC board. Pretty easy. I make a fixture for my mill and can hack them out pretty easily.

[Gerald Arana]

Hey Sparky,

Ever use one of these? Its a "bobbin" and it is used in "Fly" tying (for fishing). Sure makes that laborious task of wrapping the lines easy.

Plus, you can buy copper wire on sewing thread size spools (and different sizes) at the tackle store!

Yeah, yeah, I know you're not a fisherman!  

Good luck, Jerry

PS: That is lead wire I have on it just to show how big of a wire can be installed.

[Howard Rush]

Where do you get the teardrops?

From looking at my scores.

[Dan McEntee]

From looking at my scores.

   I thought you were going to say,"from my pillow!"

  Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[Shug Emery]

This was a right goodie of a video and something that I needed to see. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Enjoyed the slow neat wrapping technique.
Shug

[RC Storick]

This was a right goodie of a video and something that I needed to see. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Enjoyed the slow neat wrapping technique.
Shug

You are a VIP at CL Craftsman you can view the other end  Lead out block in the complete Continental build string.

[RknRusty]

I only learned to do this about three planes ago. It's nice to be able to watch and make sure I am doing it all correctly. And my copper spool which was passed down to me said 28g, but when I bought some new 28g it was thicker. Now I know to get 29g. Thanks.

[Jim Svitko]

>>Where do you get the teardrops?

I make them from PC board. Pretty easy. I make a fixture for my mill and can hack them out pretty easily.

I use 1/8 thick Delrin.  A bit tedious to make them by hand, filing the groove with a needle file, but worth the effort.  Instead of wrapping the lines, I use the  sleeves and crimping tool from McMaster-Carr.

[Steve Fitton]

I use 1/8 thick Delrin.  A bit tedious to make them by hand, filing the groove with a needle file, but worth the effort.  Instead of wrapping the lines, I use the  sleeves and crimping tool from McMaster-Carr.

Hey Jim,

What tool/sleeves from McMaster?  I hate wrapping leadouts and would much rather crimp.

[proparc]

"This video is private"

Leadout wrapping has ALWAYS been private.

[Jim Svitko]

Hey Jim,

What tool/sleeves from McMaster?  I hate wrapping leadouts and would much rather crimp.

The crimp tool is McMaster-Carr part number 3632T17.  It will crimp only one size of sleeve to fit 1/32 wire.  It is an expensive item but since I also hate wrapping it was worth it to me.  There are crimp tools available for multiple size sleeves/wire if you think you might use more than one size.

The sleeves are McMaster-Carr part number 3755T11.

I bought these items years ago and no doubt they are more expensive now.  However, the proper crimp sleeve and tool are essential to making a reliable connection.

I use the crimped sleeves on the leadout exit end as well, wrapping the wire around a brass eyelet.
 

[Steve Fitton]

Thanks for the info Jim!

Are you using Morris leadouts or the gold anodized Sullivan stuff?

[Jim Svitko]

Thanks for the info Jim!

Are you using Morris leadouts or the gold anodized Sullivan stuff?

I use 1/32 stainless wire from McMaster-Carr.  More flexible than the Sullivan wire but maybe more prone to individual strand breakage as it is 7 X 7.  I am using a Delrin leadout guide so maybe that will help prolong leadout life.

The type of wire may not matter that much.  Before I used this teardrop/crimp system I made up two test specimens.  One with the Sullivan, one with the McMaster-Carr wire. Both held a 50 pound dumbbell with one sleeve.  Being somewhat risk adverse, I used two sleeves for each connection on the plane.

I have only one plane with this set-up, my latest Oriental.  Unless I experience a failure I intend to use it from now on.  I had been using solid 1/32 music wire leadouts.  Never had a problem with them but I was always scraping them on something and worrying about bending them.

[Brett Buck]

Hey Jim,

What tool/sleeves from McMaster?  I hate wrapping leadouts and would much rather crimp.

   If you are using my style bellcrank, I strongly urge you to use conventional wrapping. Part of the durability is that there are no flex points in the wire, achieved by running the wrap on to the pointy end of the teardrop eyelet, so the wire and the teardrop move as one piece. You can't do that with a crimp, you will wind up with a flex point right between the teardrop and the crimp. Even the slight drag on the teardrop as you move the controls will cause a deflection right there, ans since it must be as close to the eyelet as possible to ensure it stays in the groove, even tiny amounts of flex will apply lots of stress.  That just recreates the problem with the "tubing sleeve" system that is notorious for failing.

    If you must crimp the wire, you might want to cut of the tip of the teardrop, drill a small hole in the resulting flat spot, then insert a small (maybe .028 x 1/4") bit of music wire, then apply the crimp over that in additional the leadouts. The wire will have to be short enough to be buried entirely inside the crimp, if not, you will have the tail end poking out, and creating yet another point of flexure. You can't avoid the point of flexure at the end of the crimp, but at least you don't want to make is worse.

    The teardrop eyelet and leadouts need to move as one piece with only the flex allowed by the wire wrap.

   Brett

[Jim Svitko]

   If you are using my style bellcrank, I strongly urge you to use conventional wrapping. Part of the durability is that there are no flex points in the wire, achieved by running the wrap on to the pointy end of the teardrop eyelet, so the wire and the teardrop move as one piece. You can't do that with a crimp, you will wind up with a flex point right between the teardrop and the crimp. Even the slight drag on the teardrop as you move the controls will cause a deflection right there, ans since it must be as close to the eyelet as possible to ensure it stays in the groove, even tiny amounts of flex will apply lots of stress.  That just recreates the problem with the "tubing sleeve" system that is notorious for failing.

    If you must crimp the wire, you might want to cut of the tip of the teardrop, drill a small hole in the resulting flat spot, then insert a small (maybe .028 x 1/4") bit of music wire, then apply the crimp over that in additional the leadouts. The wire will have to be short enough to be buried entirely inside the crimp, if not, you will have the tail end poking out, and creating yet another point of flexure. You can't avoid the point of flexure at the end of the crimp, but at least you don't want to make is worse.

    The teardrop eyelet and leadouts need to move as one piece with only the flex allowed by the wire wrap.

   Brett

Brett, thanks for that tip.  I also had concerns about flex at the tip of the teardrop but could not come up with anything to get around it.