"This video is private"fixed
How I wrap leaouts
That will work OK, but I usually attach the leadouts to the teardrop first with my usually line-tying jig, then assemble the bearing/teardrop/screw afterwards.
Brett
Where do you get the teardrops?
From looking at my scores.
This was a right goodie of a video and something that I needed to see. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Enjoyed the slow neat wrapping technique.
Shug
>>Where do you get the teardrops?
I make them from PC board. Pretty easy. I make a fixture for my mill and can hack them out pretty easily.
I use 1/8 thick Delrin. A bit tedious to make them by hand, filing the groove with a needle file, but worth the effort. Instead of wrapping the lines, I use the sleeves and crimping tool from McMaster-Carr.
"This video is private"
Hey Jim,
What tool/sleeves from McMaster? I hate wrapping leadouts and would much rather crimp.
Thanks for the info Jim!
Are you using Morris leadouts or the gold anodized Sullivan stuff?
Hey Jim,
What tool/sleeves from McMaster? I hate wrapping leadouts and would much rather crimp.
If you are using my style bellcrank, I strongly urge you to use conventional wrapping. Part of the durability is that there are no flex points in the wire, achieved by running the wrap on to the pointy end of the teardrop eyelet, so the wire and the teardrop move as one piece. You can't do that with a crimp, you will wind up with a flex point right between the teardrop and the crimp. Even the slight drag on the teardrop as you move the controls will cause a deflection right there, ans since it must be as close to the eyelet as possible to ensure it stays in the groove, even tiny amounts of flex will apply lots of stress. That just recreates the problem with the "tubing sleeve" system that is notorious for failing.
If you must crimp the wire, you might want to cut of the tip of the teardrop, drill a small hole in the resulting flat spot, then insert a small (maybe .028 x 1/4") bit of music wire, then apply the crimp over that in additional the leadouts. The wire will have to be short enough to be buried entirely inside the crimp, if not, you will have the tail end poking out, and creating yet another point of flexure. You can't avoid the point of flexure at the end of the crimp, but at least you don't want to make is worse.
The teardrop eyelet and leadouts need to move as one piece with only the flex allowed by the wire wrap.
Brett