Author Topic: Iron on Covering (Read 4133 times)

Randy Ryan · « **on:** March 30, 2009, 05:25:33 PM »

I hope I'm not violating any rules by double posting this, but it ocurred to me that guys that cover with films may not read the Painting and Finishing forum, So I've copied it here too.

Thanks,

I have used Monokote since it made it first appearance in the mid 60's. However, since the Great Planes takeover something has changed. The Monokote now just doesn't shrink very well and it makes covering large parts diffcult and small parts enraging! It also does not negotiate around curved edges like it use to, I used to be able to feel it expand as I heated it, but its minimal now. It also takes so much concentrated heat now, I'm afraid I'll melt the foam cares in my wing and still have loose areas. I've used a few other products, but Monokote always worked for me so I never made a permanent change, I need something new now!

Please, no "how to's", I've been contracted to cover 1/3 scale aerobatics models for other flyers, the quality of my work and experience level are not the issue.

What is the best film available now? I know, pretty general question, but I'd like to know what others are experiencing. I'm talking to you guys that are good with films and have used allot of the competitive brands. Is Ultracoat the way to go now?

Thanks,

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2009, 05:28:17 PM »

This is actually a very good question. I am going to be watching this with interest.

Joe Messinger · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2009, 05:56:37 PM »

I would vote for UltraCote offered by Horizon Hobby. Maybe other sources?

Joe

bob branch · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2009, 06:49:20 PM »

Randy

Having returned to cl from RC I too have a lot of experience with film coverings. You are correct. Monocote is not the same material it used to be. You have pretty well outlined the experience most other RC builders have noted. I tried Black Baron films but they seem to have less workability than monocote does. Ultracote does seem to be the way to go that most of my rc companions are using. I use it exclusively except when I can't get the color I want then I may use monocote for the color, but I usually wind up kicking myself. Since I do most of my trim with the windex method I usually use monocote for the trim colors.

Monocote does create a lot more gas to be released when used than ultracote which of course leads to more bubbling. The woodpecker is certainly your friend with monocote. I have found the best way to get a really good finish with ultracote is after its attached to shrink it with a heat gun rather than an iron and then use a soft cloth or soft mitt to press it down onto the wood just after shrinking it with the gun. I don't think I get the heat to as much area with an iron and it is also easier to mar the surface with an iron, even if covered. Ultracote certainly does shrink a lot more than monocote and handles compound curves much better than what is available today. I have never used a woodpecker with ultracote though I just did on a strega arc I am building. Its not covered yet so I cannot give you input on that. Doing it to see how it works out since the plane is going to be primarily (I still need to sit down when I say this)... black. So we will see how well it works out in the sun and if the woodpecker gives any improvement. I do try to shrink the ultracote as little as possible when I shrink, it has a much greater shrink temp range than anything else. Ultracote does stretch pretty well, more than monocote ever did in my hands. And you can keep adding heat over time and it will continue to shrink. Check the instructions that come with the material as they give the max shrink temp. I always stay under that so I always have room to tighten up a little more if I need to.

Oh, btw, the sig film is just awful. Stay well away from it. It shrinks very little and melts very easily. Not very nice stuff. I think you will find ultracote nice to work with. It is not quite as opaque in white as monocote, but yellow is pretty good and beige is really opaque. Dark wood grain splotches may show through on white though. Also it should be noted that the windex method does not work with ultracote as the trim color. It works fine as the primary but monocote is the material that sticks down with windex, not ultracote. You can then seal the trim with heat or monocote adhesive which I prefer. Just be very sparing with the stuff as you need to polish it off immediately or it will make a mess.

Good luck,

bob

Noel Corney · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2009, 07:34:11 PM »

Tried monokote on a sailplane for the supposed extra strength,horrible stuff, Try ecconocote, easy to use and is lighter and cheaper . Noel.

Don Curry AMA 267060 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2009, 07:48:43 PM »

I prefer Ultra Coat. It has more stretch and shrink than Monocoat, but the color selection is limited.I recently helped a friend cover hismodel and he purchased monocoat for one color and ultracoat for the second. while covering the profile fusalage the monocoat was impossible to cover the flat areas without huge bubbles. the ultra coat along side it went on like silk. (no pun intended). Also the over laps on the ultracoat completely disapeared but not the monocoat.
Don

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2009, 08:18:34 PM »

Thanks guys, Ultracoat it is and fortunately they have Corsair blue which is what I wanted in the first place.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2009, 10:44:15 PM »

I just did my first film covering in about a hundred years. I used Coverite Red Baron. I was able to get it to stretch around the wing tips, but I found out that too much heat didn't melt it so much as cause the color to go wonky (this was transparent color). but it's not horrible. I certainly remember my days with Monokote being easier. I think I'll go back to paint.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:22:54 PM »

If you check the adhesive side you'll see that Monocote is very smooth and Ultracote has a little bit of a texture to it. That texture lets air bubbles escape, whereas on M-cote it is easy to trap them.

Just like with paint, I think it is a bad idea to mix brands. I have a large stash of M-cote and thus keep using it, but I really want to start changing over to U-cote.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #9 on:** April 01, 2009, 07:33:58 PM »

Well, I pickd up a roll of Ultracote and am trying it now. Its better, but will take some getting used to. I can't move nearly as fast as I used to with M'kote. The multi temp functions can be a little quirky like after sealing to the ribs then shrinking the covering inflates and pulls off the ribs, the old Mono would inflate, but it would stay stuck, so now I have to remember to vent all my structures. One thing really nice it the way it does the rounded edges, the way Mono used to. The finish isn't as nice, but its acceptable. I'm doing a Nobler and I wanted it like the one I built when I was 14. That one was all Aerogloss, but I wanted to move faster on this one sinde there are ao many look-alikes. I'm going to trim it like maybe a Marine Corsair rather then the typical NAVY trim. Pretty unoriginal, but its what I want.

Thanks for the advice guys!

Wynn Robins · « **Reply #10 on:** April 01, 2009, 10:32:28 PM »

in order best to worst

Oracover
Ultra cote
Aerokote
Aerokote Lite
Brodak
Econocote

Lyle Spiegel · « **Reply #11 on:** April 02, 2009, 05:23:04 AM »

I have used Ultracote my ARC Vector 40 - just to see if I could do it- since my usual finish is silkspan & dope all the way- I am very pleased with the Ultracote- first tried it on a scrap piece then just took my time doing stab , flaps, elevator, rudder first just to get familiar with it- then tackled the wing - which turned out super. I used the transparent yellow with red trim. Fuse all done except for the section forward of the wing LE.
Except for this project, all others using silkspan & dope

Bradley Walker · « **Reply #12 on:** April 02, 2009, 10:33:51 AM »

The new T-Rex will be covered in Ultracote. Much better.

bob branch · « **Reply #13 on:** April 02, 2009, 12:04:10 PM »

Wow, that is a big quality step for Brodak!

bob

John Cralley · « **Reply #14 on:** April 02, 2009, 02:38:03 PM »

Just so you know, Oracover and Ultracote are one and the same product.

John

Phil Coopy · « **Reply #15 on:** April 03, 2009, 05:24:20 PM »

I agree with what Randy is experiencing. Ar first I thought that my heat gun was not putting out as much heat so I bought an new one...not that. I have been a $kote die hard for many many years and I think Randy is right on about the shrinkability in the past few years. It just ain't there anymore. I just finished covering a Pete 'N Poke for a buddy and had a lot of problems with the Monokote. I looks OK but it was twice as much work to get it right. I am going to test some of the new stuff against some old rolls that I have. I am going to try Ultrakote for smaller planes. I normally use 21st Century fabric for large models, but have just discovered SolarTex is much easier to use.

Phil

Walter Hicks · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2009, 07:51:58 PM »

Is Ultracote heavier than Monokote??

John E Rakes · « **Reply #17 on:** April 14, 2009, 05:57:36 AM »

I have not used all brands of covering. i have used monokote and ultracoat. Ultracoat is much easier to separate than monokote. It has a white backing that sometimes separates on its own, which can be hard to cut straight lines or what not. It also has Oracover printed on the white backing paper. That could mean something, I have heard of oraqcover. Ultracoat works well at low to semihot temps. The ease of separating the backing and flexibility of heat ranges makes ultracoat a great choice.

John E Rakes · « **Reply #18 on:** April 14, 2009, 06:01:01 AM »

One thing I have learned about pearl purple, when you cut and apply, if you overlap the same colors, sometimes it will leave a white line at the seams. This happens when it shrinks. This is Ultracoat I am speaking of.

Michael Boucher · « **Reply #19 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:09:53 AM »

I remember hearing about Solar Tex but didn't know it was still around. Where can you get it?

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #20 on:** April 14, 2009, 12:08:47 PM »

FWIW, Solar tex is pretty thin , soft and light, I would not depend on it for any strength in my sturcture

Michael Boucher · « **Reply #21 on:** April 14, 2009, 12:12:26 PM »

Thanks for the info Mark, I appreciate it!

Author Topic: Iron on Covering (Read 4133 times)

Walter Hicks