Indian ink pens

[Ron Vargo]

Hey guys,  I’m looking for a source and a part number etc. for quality Indian ink pens...  there are so many types on line. Can some one tell me what they use specifically.  Thx Ron

[Avaiojet]

Hey guys,  I’m looking for a source and a part number etc. for quality Indian ink pens...  there are so many types on line. Can some one tell me what they use specifically.  Thx Ron

Why Indian ink?

Look up my P-40 build, probably over at CFC Graphics vendor's corner. I mention the pen I elected to use after purchasing a bunch to test.

Here's the link

https://stunthanger.com/smf/paint-and-finishing/secret-exposed!-pen-lines-photos-added!!/

[Brett Buck]

Hey guys,  I’m looking for a source and a part number etc. for quality Indian ink pens...  there are so many types on line. Can some one tell me what they use specifically.  Thx Ron

  You mean technical/drafting pens?  I use the larger Rapidograph set with the ink intended for film/mylar but there are a number of pre-filled types that I use more (although never on an airplane) that work about the same and are much less expensive. My disposable set is at work, but I will look where I got them and let you know.

     Brett

p.s. these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722Y98KS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  No guarantees on applicability to airplanes, I have not tried them on an airplane. But $12 is hard to ignore, the entire set is less than one Rapidograph and no cleaning.

[Craig Beswick]

So Charles,
you used IDenti Pens? On what type of paint did it go over?
Also, you didn't respond to Roberts question regarding clear coat potential problems. Were there any and again relevant what type of clear you put over it.

Craig

Ps. Rob, probably pertinent to tell us your finishing products or, do you just want the Indian Ink pen names and numbers?

[Avaiojet]

So Charles,
you used IDenti Pens? On what type of paint did it go over?
Also, you didn't respond to Roberts question regarding clear coat potential problems. Were there any and again relevant what type of clear you put over it.

Craig

Ps. Rob, probably pertinent to tell us your finishing products or, do you just want the Indian Ink pen names and numbers?

I'm very open about everything I do, from my first piece of balsa to my final clear coat.

And yes. I have a great finishing system that takes hours, not weeks.

All this information can be found in my builds. I've had many moved to CFC Graphics vendors corner.

I used only Krylon on the P-40, you have that link.

Robert? I believe you're the only one who asked about clear?

The only clear I use is 2 part auto paint. I've used it on my models forever. I wouldn't consider any other clear. I've said this 1000 times.

Go over to CFC Graphics vendor's corner and check out the paint threads.

It's all there.

BTW. The Krylon aerosol can paint I use is satin or flat, I never use gloss and I always sand it a bit, 400 or 600.

[Dan McEntee]

I'm very open about everything I do, from my first piece of balsa to my final clear coat.

And yes. I have a great finishing system that takes hours, not weeks.

All this information can be found in my builds. I've had many moved to CFC Graphics vendors corner.

I used only Krylon on the P-40, you have that link.

Robert? I believe you're the only one who asked about clear?

The only clear I use is 2 part auto paint. I've used it on my models forever. I wouldn't consider any other clear. I've said this 1000 times.

Go over to CFC Graphics vendor's corner and check out the paint threads.

It's all there.

BTW. The Krylon aerosol can paint I use is satin or flat, I never use gloss and I always sand it a bit, 400 or 600.

      And don't forget to mention that you never fuel or fly your models. That's still kind of important.
   Type at you later and HAPPY THANKS GIVING!!
    Dan McEntee

[RC Storick]

here is a link to the pens I use https://www.cheapjoes.com/catalog/product/view/id/17626/s/koh-i-noor-rapidograph-pen-7-pen-set/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwf39BRCCARIsALXWETwRB_bYx8S_NiEkDU1k_XMqBxcjVLXghDTAAQRjU5MwYWpXYkTRamIaAqGaEALw_wcB

Be sure to use Indian ink for film  https://www.dickblick.com/products/koh-i-noor-rapidograph-ultradraw-waterproof-ink/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=21116-2003&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwf39BRCCARIsALXWETwXKT9bpml3AVnETa6qpl48sKhOrTsoVqAxFwISinZ7GqmhKv9AROkaAijhEALw_wcB

[JHildreth]

Ron,

I tested several ready to use artist and craft pens before inking my FW190 project.  The pens I found that worked best for black lines are marketed by Faber-Castell.  They are called Pitt Artist Pens, contain black India ink, and handle like a Sharpie.  The point is not the chisel or conical shapes as found in the medium to large Sharpie, but the small metal shrouded tip like the fine line Sharpie.  The two sizes of the Pitt pen that I found most desirable are the S and XS.  I know the XS is 0.1mm in dia and I think the S is 0.3mm.  I used the S mostly on my FW.  I found the XS very useful if I had to repair or touch-up lines.  You can get these pens at hobby and craft stores like Michael's or Hobby Lobby for $5-$7 each.  I found the main "trick" to using these pens was to not press too hard and thus distort the tip.

One other thing I found extremely helpful was generating templates for the lines.  Using my CAD drawings I laid out all of the panel lines I intended to use and had them laser cut from thin fiber board.  You can do the same thing by hand using a template material such as SeeTemp.  I used square cornered rectangle and curved cornered rectangle templates for access panels.  I created full length lines with the various "jogs" and offsets incorporated.  I also generated some simple straight line templates of various lengths for doing simple straight lines.  These fiber board templates conformed to the flat or curved surfaces and allowed me to lay down the panel lines in one motion.  This saved a lot of time and agony drawing the lines.  It also made keeping the left side/wing lines identical to the right side/wing lines.

Joe

[Craig Beswick]

Charles,
I know you are very transparent regarding your building and finishing.

Whilst, as you well know, I have read a number of your build threads and some of them a couple of times, the simple response of IDenti Pens, Krylon and 2 part auto clear may be a lot easier for Rob  than having to potentially read 150 posts to find the answer he is looking for.

Respectfully
Craig

[kevin king]

Also it's called India ink, not Indian ink.

[Avaiojet]

Charles,
I know you are very transparent regarding your building and finishing.

Whilst, as you well know, I have read a number of your build threads and some of them a couple of times, the simple response of IDenti Pens, Krylon and 2 part auto clear may be a lot easier for Rob  than having to potentially read 150 posts to find the answer he is looking for.

Respectfully
Craig

Craig,

I answered Rob's question about pens, and more. his only interest was pens?

What did I miss?

[Scott Richlen]

Ron:

I use the old manual-fill Rapidograph pens.  I use a wide nib pen (marked 3 1/2 / 1.00 on the cap) and a finer nib pen (marked 00 / .30).  I use the wider nib pen for marking out things such as ailerons or trim tabs while using the finer nib for rivets.

I use Rapidograph black India ink for film.

This may not be the easiest way to go about lining your plane, but it is permanent and the lines do not fade.  There are a lot of disposable pens available that seem to work very nicely until halfway through the summer you find the markings fading in the sun.  If your planes only last half a summer, go ahead and use them, but if you plan for your airplane to stick around for a while and it isn't going to be a "hanger queen" then I recommend Rapidograph.

[Scott Richlen]

Following up on JHildreth's comments on templates:

I needed to added a tail-weight box to my recently completed Uber-Hai and decided to outline it first as an access hatch.  I made a drawing template out of C-Temp, CAed a balsa "handle" to it, and stuck a couple layers of tape to its backside to create a "stand-off".  You always want to add a stand-off to your drawing templates, I usually use 3 or 4 layers of tape and make sure it is about 3/32" back from the edge.  Otherwise the template can touch the surface where you are laying down your ink line and the ink will wick under the template and cause a mess.

[Ron Vargo]

Thanks for all the helpful info.  Really appreciate it.  Ron