Higgins Fade Proof Ink

[Dennis Saydak]

Guys I need some information about how much ink to use to tint clear dope and whether or not the tinted dope can be brushed on with decent final results. Does anyone have experience using this method?

I have my Berserker ready for color and the construction article mentions that Higgins ink was used with the two prototype models. I like experimenting with new products and methods but I hate when things don't turn out as well as hoped for.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I do have a supply of the ink on hand.

[Bill Hummel]

Hi Dennis, we liked using the Higgins ink on the Berserkers as well as other ships. No secrets, mix a bottle of ink into about 8 ounces of thinned clear dope. SPRAY light coats, the more coats, the deeper the colors.  Brushing does not work well, lots of streaking.  Hope that helps!
PS:  I think you will really like flying the Berserker!

[Dennis Saydak]

Thanks for the mix ratio information Bill. That helps a lot.
Dennis

[Dennis Saydak]

Thanks Ty, I have several ink colors on hand including Carmine and Violet. I'll mix up a small quantity of each and try them on a scrap test piece before hitting the model. BTW, I do like pink where appropriate like on a Pink Fink RR if you remember that one? I also have a can of Brodak Candy Pink that I'll use somewhere. I just don't know what color undercoat to use with it.

[Steve Helmick]

Randy Powell or Mark Scarborough can likely give guidance about what you should put under the Candy Pink. As I recall, the standard rule is to put a warm base under warm colors and a cool base under cool colors. So, gold under pink or red, and silver under blue or green. I seem to recall Randy used a bronze base under one of his. Test panels will help with the decision! If you don't have a spray outfit, get one.

Back when I was in my teens and 20's I did some dyed clear finishes on FF (dope) and one B-proto speed model (epoxy). The dope finishes were brushed over same color of tissue paper, and looked almost metallic. I don't recall if that B-proto was sprayed or brushed, but I did learn that all of them needed a good fuel proof clearcoat. I used Rit dye powder, mixed into thinner and then added to the clear dope or clear epoxy. I remember being shocked when the dye leached out of the epoxy when fuel contacted it.       Steve