Electric ARF Nobler

[Ken Culbertson]

I have a really nice flying Nobler ARF that I want to convert to electric.    I have searched here and cannot find any postings that show a successful conversion.   Any conversion "kits" out there? Any "build" threads or pictures?  Most likely power will be a Cobra 2820 ish motor, Edge 50 ESC and Huben timer.  By the way, has anybody out there used the retract option on the Huban timer?

Ken

[Tim Wescott]

If it's a TopFlite ARF you should be able to saw off the motor mount beams and mount the motor to the firewall with a box of the appropriate size.  Then it's "just" a matter of finding a battery to fit in the tank compartment.  I'd put the ESC under the motor for ventilation, and arrange for a scoop in front and outlets in back to ventilate the battery.

[Ken Culbertson]

If it's a TopFlite ARF you should be able to saw off the motor mount beams and mount the motor to the firewall with a box of the appropriate size.  Then it's "just" a matter of finding a battery to fit in the tank compartment.  I'd put the ESC under the motor for ventilation, and arrange for a scoop in front and outlets in back to ventilate the battery.

I thought about doing that or screwing in a front mount. You get a nice engine "box" that way and it is easier to cowl than the rear mount.   Plans "C" through "F" call for de-arfing it with a whole new fuselage.  I would just like to hear from someone that has "been there and done that" to know if there are any gotcha's.

Ken

[Bob Hunt]

Hi Ken:

I'm sure that Frank Imbriaco will chime in here before too long with some hints and tips on converting the ARF Nobler. He did that conversion on his Nobler and it worked great. I can tell you from experience with that size plane that you really only need an E-Flite Power 15 motor and a 2,500 mAh 4S pack. If you can find a Phoenix 45 ESC online somewhere, that would be a perfect setup, and a light one too! I'd also suggest trying the APC 10 x 5.8 reverse pitch prop.

As for the question about anyone trying the retract function on the Hubin timer, well, yeah, several of us have. Rick Huff, Buddy Wieder, Frank McMillan, Frank Imbriaco, and I have all used that function on the timer very successfully. Attached is a photo taken by Mike Schmitt of my Second Wind twin in flight at the Nats a few years ago. The retract function works very well when mated to the E-Flite 10 -15 electric retracts.

Later - Bob Hunt



 

[Frank Imbriaco]

Ken :
 As Bob said, I did such a conversion . I recommend that you retain the beam motor mounts. I trimmed mine to about 3/16" thickness ; except for the connection with a Hunt G-10 composite mount. Leave the first 1/2" as is. I recommend using a high quality,slow-cure epoxy. Check and re-check alignment
Your Nobler ARF battery compartment will no doubt be somewhat tight - mine was. I used an E-Flight Power 15 , TP 2700 mAh 4S pack and an CC Ice Lite 50 ESC. Packaging everything under the hood will be a challenge, but it's doable. I bought a new cowl and with some mods, I was able to retain it.
I converted mine from glow about 6 years ago and flew the begeebees out of it.  No issues.
With E-power, the air frame stayed perfect.
It now has a new owner.

[Tim Wescott]

Plans "C" through "F" call for de-arfing it with a whole new fuselage.  I would just like to hear from someone that has "been there and done that" to know if there are any gotcha's.

Man, every time I do something like that I regret it.  If it's not as much work as scratch-building something nice it's more, and you can never trust the bits you didn't build.

I recommend that you retain the beam motor mounts.

Listen to the man whose been there -- I've just contemplated the job, not actually done it.

[Mark Mc]

Not my info, but I remembered a Nobler ARF from the "List Your Set Up" thread by 55chevr:

"Flew it first time this weekend.
Top Flite ARF Nobler;
Tom Morris controls
Exceed Rocket 3015
Castle Creations Phoenix Edge 50 ESC
Hubin FM-9 timer
4S 2200 Battery
10x4.8 APC ER pusher prop
RPM setting 10,156
60' x .015" lines
Needs a little more trim.  Only 4 flights on it under fairly windy conditions but flies like I remember my old green box Nobler did in 1960.

Joe"


And one from Mike Callas:

"TF ARF Nobler
Motor: E-Flite 32
Batt: Zippy 2650 mah 4S 20C
ESC: CC 50 Ice
Timer: FM-9
1100 mah for 4:30 run at 8040 rpm (breaking in batteries)

Modified the under wing cover/hatch so the batteries are stowed exposed under the wing with velcro straps on a 1/8" ply diving board that spans the fuse. It's almost neary flush with the fuse.
Flew it at the Basin this weekend
Tony and crew loved it."


And Andreas:
"My Noblarf setup:

Model: Top-Flite Nobler ARF
Wing Area: 500 sq in
Weight: 45 oz
Motor: Turnigy 35-48 900kv
Battery: Flight-Max 2200mAh
ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 35
Timer: own
Prop: APC 12 x 6 "E"
Rpm: 8400
Lap time: 4.9-5.0
Line Length: 60' eye to eye
flight time: 5:15
Battery drain: about 1700mAh

/Andreas"

Maybe Will Moore?

"
Top Flight Nobler ARF  - 2003

Motor                    AXI 28-26-10

Battery                  Thunder Power 2 / 3 cell 2100mamp

ESC                        Jeti 30 amp

Throttle control      Z-Tron infra  red

Prop    Aero Naut  carbon   10 / 6"


Or Alan Hahn:
"Arf Nobler
Wing area=?
Flying Weight=44oz
Scorpion 3020-16 (kV=880rpm/volt--hand-wound) (5.4oz)
FMA 4s2100 18C Lipo (7.3oz)
Castle Creation Phoenix 35A ESC
JMP-2 timer
APC TE 12-6   stock
60 foot eyelet-to eyelet lines
Flight time 300 s (does not include 20 wait after arming the timer)
7950 rpm
lap speed 5.0-5.1s
1560-1600 mAHr put back in according to charger

Whew!"



Mark

[Ken Culbertson]

Ken :
 As Bob said, I did such a conversion . I recommend that you retain the beam motor mounts. I trimmed mine to about 3/16" thickness ; except for the connection with a Hunt G-10 composite mount. Leave the first 1/2" as is. I recommend using a high quality,slow-cure epoxy. Check and re-check alignment
Your Nobler ARF battery compartment will no doubt be somewhat tight - mine was. I used an E-Flight Power 15 , TP 2700 mAh 4S pack and an CC Ice Lite 50 ESC. Packaging everything under the hood will be a challenge, but it's doable. I bought a new cowl and with some mods, I was able to retain it.
I converted mine from glow about 6 years ago and flew the begeebees out of it.  No issues.
With E-power, the air frame stayed perfect.
It now has a new owner.

Thanks, this is exactly what I wanted to hear.  This stupid ARF flies better than any 35 size ship I have had and I have had a bunch.  Guess I just got lucky.  Did you hatch the top or bottom?  My personal preference is the inboard side but the Nobler is a little short to go in through the side and I would not want to mess with the 1/8" doublers.  I think I am going to make a hatch on the bottom and mount the timer & ESC on the bottom of it in the air stream through the cowl and vent the battery through some side vents.  Something like what is going into my PA ship under construction (pix).    Almost like having to build an IC with a tank you have to remove to fill it!

Ken

[Ken Culbertson]

Not my info, but I remembered a Nobler ARF from the "List Your Set Up" thread by 55chevr:

Whew!"



Mark

Thanks for taking the time do post this.  It tells me that it can be done and that I am in the right ball park.  I haven't seen any 5s batteries listed so my choice of a 4s 2800 looks like a go.

Ken

[Frank Imbriaco]

Ken :
Mine utilized a top hatch to load/unload battery.