Clearing up haze of Luster Kote clear.

[Dennis Toth]

Guys,
I have a small problem with a luster kote clear coat that has hazed over due to spraying in FL summer humidity. So now that we are in painting season in FL, I'd like to find a way clear the haze. Any suggestions?

Best,               DennisT

[Will Hinton]

I have thinned Luster Coat with Dupont 3608S for spraying in my airbrush when it had set for a bit uncapped.  I only used around 10%, but my thoughts are this try a sample of the clear on some scrap and then spray pure thinner on it to see the response it gives you.  SPRAY A LIGHT COAT!!!!!!!!  Just fog it on.  I reduce haze this way with any lacquer base but I'm just not sure about the Luster Coat being lacquer base.  I don't believe it is, but since my experiment from before worked okay, try it out on scrap and see what happens.
Good luck,
Will

[Rudy Taube]

Hi Dennis,

I don't paint much anymore, but when I did I almost always used LustreKote. It is a very good paint and a perfect match for the MonoKote I always used on my wings etc.

Here is the link to the "hints" section of their very helpful website:

          http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/painting-tips/topr7200tip5.html

Their solutions is:

1. DON'T paint in high humidity. I know you already knew that, we have all been there. 
2. Try to buff out the haze if possible.
3. Add another coat of clear.
4. Please see site for details.

I'm not sure if their new formula is Enamel or lacquer, they don't have any info. on it's chemistry on their web site. 

Their site gives a wealth of information from surface prep to final gloss finish. And a good "Problem solving" page too.

Good Luck!

[Howard Rush]

It is a very good paint...

If that's very good paint, anything else I've used is extremely good paint.  Thanks for the link.  Maybe they show some minimally destructive way of removing it so I can salvage those airplanes.

[Rudy Taube]

Howard,

Your comments are very unfair and unwarranted. There is no good reason for you to be insulting to me or to this very popular successful product.

Attached is a photo of one of my scale aerobatic planes. (the photo did not make it to this post, I guess it's too large) Part of it is painted with LustreKote and part is covered with MonoKote. This plane is over 10 years old and has over 1,000 flights. The paint and covering still look like new and have their original high gloss and perfect color. The paint is easy to use if you follow all their instructions and the results are equal to any other model paints. Like many other paint products, their paint needs to have you use their undercoat paint for good results. This has caused some people to have problems with this product (and other paint products as well). 

[Howard Rush]

I know other people who have gotten reasonable results with LustreKote.  I didn't.  One can sprayed lumps like cottage cheese.  This could have been a rogue can or nozzle.  The next two cans worked better.  I put the LustreKote directly on film with no primer, and I sprayed in high humidity.  I should have heeded the instructions.   

[Bob Reeves]

It's really a crap shoot sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Had the Red on a really nice stunter turn blotchy black after sitting in the sun and I did follow the instructions.

I like the stuff and still use it when I have something that is going to be a knock around and I need to match Monokote. But I understand and prepair full knowing it can turn out bad just as easily as it can turn out well.

[Dennis Toth]

Guys,
The red seems to be UV sensitive, I have had the top surface get the dark spots but if you put on their clear coat it prevents it.

Best,                  DennisT

[Rudy Taube]

Guys,

1. This is RATTLE CAN paint! It will most likely fall short of 20 points at the North East Regional Champs (AKA Nats;-). But its relatively inexpensive, works fast, easy to use, and overall it works well.
2. It is not as good as a high Zoot $20,000 auto paint system with O2 etc. But it will still give a beautiful finish that is good enough for 95% of CLPA modelers.
3. There is NO paint system on the planet that will make the other 5% completely happy!   
4. Howard your not alone, I think most CL guys do the same based on one of the most common CL sayings: "..... Directions? We don't need no stinking Directions!" 
5. Bob, I can 2nd Dennis's advice. The Clear coat really helps everything; great "shinny", Red stays Red, and it seals all decals etc. I would not use this paint without the clear coat, even with ECL.
6. Their web site painting tips are excellent. Two of the most important are:
        1. YOU MUST HEAT THIS PAINT JUST BEFORE USE AND DURING USE!!! I use very hot tap water in a cut out gallon bleach container. I keep replacing the hot water during the painting so the can is ALWAYS warm. This is CRITICAL to making this paint work well.
        2.  YOU MUST SHAKE UNTIL YOUR LEFT ARM FALLS OFF!!! Don't use our right arm, you need it to paint with. ;-) ...... shake until your arm is sore, then shake some more. Shake frequently after each part is painted.
7  You MUST "always" use their undercoat paint, please do NOT use substitutes unless you are an expert and your name is Mark and you are a professional artist/painter!
8.  Painting LustreKote over MonoKote works well, IF you follow their instructions, TIGHTEN 1st, rough up surface with steel wool, and use THEIR undercoat, etc.
9.  I am NOT a paint expert, but I do follow directions well and I have always had very good results with this paint on several large (28+lb.) planes.
10.  Like in all things: ...... Your milage may vary. 

Here is the link to the Painting Tips site:   http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/painting-tips/topr7200tip1.html

Please go to the bottom of the tip page and click on the continue: xxxxxxxx for the next tip.

Regards, 

[GGeezer]

I have had mixed results (blobing etc.) when spraying from the can but this has actually worked in my favor. Our local hobby shop has had quite a number of returns because the cans either plugged or sprayed poorly. Instead of them having to pay to have the cans disposed of, they are more than happy to give them to me.
I invert the can and spray out all the gas, all the while agitating the can to release the dissolved gas. I then punch a hole in the can and drain the contents into a glass jar. I then use my automotive touch up gun to spray the Lustre-kote on the model. No thinning is necessary and the finish is now first class.
The metalic red I sprayed on my last model hasn't blotched so far.

Orv.

[Howard Rush]

Nice tip, Orv.  I'll try spraying it by other means. 

[wwwarbird]

Guys,

1. This is RATTLE CAN paint! It will most likely fall short of 20 points at the North East Regional Champs (AKA Nats;-). But its relatively inexpensive, works fast, easy to use, and overall it works well.
2. It is not as good as a high Zoot $20,000 auto paint system with O2 etc. But it will still give a beautiful finish that is good enough for 95% of CLPA modelers.
3. There is NO paint system on the planet that will make the other 5% completely happy!   
4. Howard your not alone, I think most CL guys do the same based on one of the most common CL sayings: "..... Directions? We don't need no stinking Directions!" 
5. Bob, I can 2nd Dennis's advice. The Clear coat really helps everything; great "shinny", Red stays Red, and it seals all decals etc. I would not use this paint without the clear coat, even with ECL.
6. Their web site painting tips are excellent. Two of the most important are:
        1. YOU MUST HEAT THIS PAINT JUST BEFORE USE AND DURING USE!!! I use very hot tap water in a cut out gallon bleach container. I keep replacing the hot water during the painting so the can is ALWAYS warm. This is CRITICAL to making this paint work well.
        2.  YOU MUST SHAKE UNTIL YOUR LEFT ARM FALLS OFF!!! Don't use our right arm, you need it to paint with. ;-) ...... shake until your arm is sore, then shake some more. Shake frequently after each part is painted.
7  You MUST "always" use their undercoat paint, please do NOT use substitutes unless you are an expert and your name is Mark and you are a professional artist/painter!
8.  Painting LustreKote over MonoKote works well, IF you follow their instructions, TIGHTEN 1st, rough up surface with steel wool, and use THEIR undercoat, etc.
9.  I am NOT a paint expert, but I do follow directions well and I have always had very good results with this paint on several large (28+lb.) planes.
10.  Like in all things: ...... Your milage may vary. 

Here is the link to the Painting Tips site:   http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/painting-tips/topr7200tip1.html

Please go to the bottom of the tip page and click on the continue: xxxxxxxx for the next tip.

Regards, 

 Whoah man. 

[Chris McMillin]

That's funny, Wayne!

I actually use this stuff because it's easy and I only require R/C finishes. However, I do all of that stuff Rudy says. It comes out pretty nice and I don't have to go to the airport to get all of my real spray crap out. I'm going to use some tomorrow to spray matte clear over a camouflage ARF with shiny film covering.
I have had the balls of paint shoot out, and the spray heads blow. It looks good after you clear it and rub it out, though. If you mist paint on over film at first, it will stick pretty well.

Chris...

[Rudy Taube]

Hi Wayne,

I agree with Chris, that was funny!

I get your hint, next time I won't be so soft spoken and subtle? 

[wwwarbird]

 Thanks guys, it was just a fun little jab, couldn't resist.

 Not anymore, but I've used a LOT of Lustrekote over the years. Usually with satisfactory results, but some colors and individual cans I would get ahold of definitely had issues. Rudy, if you're painting the big planes with the stuff you must have a ton of money in your paint jobs. Maybe you have stock in Tower Hobbies?

[john e. holliday]

Orv,  I like the tip you gave.  Now I need a hobby shop to do that for me.